Stihl usg grinder
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March right into your local Stihl dealer and ask them to order a 5203 201 0303
Be prepared to PAY for it, the retail is $600 something bucks...
It is interesting that you ask, as this evening I have started the process of MODIFICATION of my stores Stihl grinder... go read that thread!!
Be prepared to PAY for it, the retail is $600 something bucks...
It is interesting that you ask, as this evening I have started the process of MODIFICATION of my stores Stihl grinder... go read that thread!!
When I get to my store (I am a dealer) I will look it up for you.
If I remember, I had to order it, it was back ordered for a little while, then one day it arrived!
IF you REALLY want it, and your dealer is a PAIN in the B--- about this, I can make it happen somehow. You will have to pay the shipping from me to you.
If you are doing several sizes of chain you can get a second chain vice and have it setup for the .063 stuff.
If I remember, I had to order it, it was back ordered for a little while, then one day it arrived!
IF you REALLY want it, and your dealer is a PAIN in the B--- about this, I can make it happen somehow. You will have to pay the shipping from me to you.
If you are doing several sizes of chain you can get a second chain vice and have it setup for the .063 stuff.
I had the info on my phone, the Stihl usg number is 52032000009US
$649 the thing ain't cheap!!! but they are well made.
$649 the thing ain't cheap!!! but they are well made.
My warehouse in Colorado is claiming to have one in stock.
Got my NOS for $175 delivered,off Kijiji
It had been for sale for months at $175,so i asked if he would ship it for that, Yup he said.Pakaging wasn't the best and the raker wheel got broke in shipping.
Watch around,i have seen a couple more since i bought mine.
If you are not in a rush you will get a deal.
It had been for sale for months at $175,so i asked if he would ship it for that, Yup he said.Pakaging wasn't the best and the raker wheel got broke in shipping.
Watch around,i have seen a couple more since i bought mine.
If you are not in a rush you will get a deal.
OP , when you locate one , get the foot operated chain release . It’s not super cheap ( Stihl ) ,and it’s kinda homemade looking . But, it speeds up work ,and holds up well .
Thanks for all your help. Let me see what my local dealer can do with this number. I was looking at buying one months ago maybe even a year but I believe the problem was the dealer. It was way more than the $649 or they just couldn’t get it, for whatever reason I just gave up. Now I have accumulated more chains that I have filed and the angle is off to the point the saw binds. Usually after about 4 or 5 sharpenings. Now I need something to get them back right.
If they can’t do something tomorrow I’ll pm you and be glad to pay for shipping and your trouble.
What is a nod?
Do you use diamond wheels? By the way I have never used a grinder before.
Ok, I can write a paragraph on operating the USG. In comparison to my Oregon 511, the USG is a very sturdy machine, the "slide" works very well. You set it to about 15deg, with the top angle at 30 deg. The stones that the grinder come with are quite nice, If you are doing .325 chains the 3/16 wheel is a bit thick, and the 1/8 wheel is a bit thin. The best answer is to make a centering adapter and run the 5/32 wheel from timbertuff on the .325 chains.
Unless you are SET on getting the USG, you can get the Oregon 511 or some version there of for about half the price. It will indeed make a very nice chain! (also easier to modify...)
Ok, now the inevitable "reversing" speech.
With a file you go from the inside to the outside of the tooth. With a grinder and a good clamp you will get better (excellent?) results from going outside to inside. This pulls the "burr" inside the tooth instead of outside. Now, for obvious reasons they (safety?) decided that it isn't a good idea to have sparks being directed at the operator and set all the motors to go one direction (away) from the operator. This means that 1/2 of the cutters are being ground "wrong" in my opinion. if the Wheel is very clean, and the operator is careful you can get a 1/2 decent tooth with it this way. I prefer to modify the motor to include a switch to reverse the motor for the opposite side of cutters, the right cutters with respect to the USG machine.
With ANY grinder, it is very important to keep the grinder wheel correctly shaped and absolutely clean. Any amount of "dirt" embedded in the wheel will result in heating of the cutter tooth. I have discovered that even a little heating has detrimental effects. Watch the oil smoke on top of the tooth, or the pitch "burning" as a indication that you are warming it up too much, time to dress and clean that wheel !! As a side benefit a clean wheel produces a very nice tooth, and is faster at doing it than the dirty wheel.
Years of experience talking here....
Rakers... the USG has a funny wheel that can be used to do them. I have a older Oregon grinder that has been beat up, and is no longer really accurate for cutters, it is setup with a 1/4" wheel vertical to set the rakers.
After all of that, I still will run thru a chain with a file for one stroke to clean it up, and also see how I am doing, anything look funny??
You will have to learn, and probably ruin a few chains to get the feel for it.
I do ALL the sharpening for the store up here, and have gone thru hundreds of chains this year. Developing a good reputation for sharpening. A correctly sharpened chain is a pleasure to work with,
Unless you are SET on getting the USG, you can get the Oregon 511 or some version there of for about half the price. It will indeed make a very nice chain! (also easier to modify...)
Ok, now the inevitable "reversing" speech.
With a file you go from the inside to the outside of the tooth. With a grinder and a good clamp you will get better (excellent?) results from going outside to inside. This pulls the "burr" inside the tooth instead of outside. Now, for obvious reasons they (safety?) decided that it isn't a good idea to have sparks being directed at the operator and set all the motors to go one direction (away) from the operator. This means that 1/2 of the cutters are being ground "wrong" in my opinion. if the Wheel is very clean, and the operator is careful you can get a 1/2 decent tooth with it this way. I prefer to modify the motor to include a switch to reverse the motor for the opposite side of cutters, the right cutters with respect to the USG machine.
With ANY grinder, it is very important to keep the grinder wheel correctly shaped and absolutely clean. Any amount of "dirt" embedded in the wheel will result in heating of the cutter tooth. I have discovered that even a little heating has detrimental effects. Watch the oil smoke on top of the tooth, or the pitch "burning" as a indication that you are warming it up too much, time to dress and clean that wheel !! As a side benefit a clean wheel produces a very nice tooth, and is faster at doing it than the dirty wheel.
Years of experience talking here....
Rakers... the USG has a funny wheel that can be used to do them. I have a older Oregon grinder that has been beat up, and is no longer really accurate for cutters, it is setup with a 1/4" wheel vertical to set the rakers.
After all of that, I still will run thru a chain with a file for one stroke to clean it up, and also see how I am doing, anything look funny??
You will have to learn, and probably ruin a few chains to get the feel for it.
I do ALL the sharpening for the store up here, and have gone thru hundreds of chains this year. Developing a good reputation for sharpening. A correctly sharpened chain is a pleasure to work with,
Wow! You must have copied and pasted that. Thanks that’s actually is a lot of good information. I know my way around a lathe and have access to a couple at work and a bench top at home. Making a insert/ bushing for the grinding wheels should be enjoyable.
Why the STIHL grinder? Lots of other very good grinders for a whole lot less money. E.g. Oregon 520-120 for about half the price on Amazon, eBay, etc. Used by a lot of shops. Supplies are more readily available too.
Using a grinder is not 'automatic'; lot of good tips and advice in this thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
Philbert
nope... all off the top of my head.
I started with a file... I stunk at filing a chain. Bought a piece of crap thing from Harbor freight... It stunk, but I learned some. I bought the 511a, and it worked ok, but I eventually wanted a reversible motor... being the inquisitive tinkerer I puzzled it out. I burned cutters, I ruined wheels, but I eventually learned.
The stihl uses I think a 13mm shaft or some such thing, and the Oregon uses a 7/8 or 22 mm or something like that. I used a nylon washer, and a file to fit the 5/32 wheel to the USG. Nothing fancy... It helps BUNCHES to have the wheel run smooth and steady. You know what I am talkin' about; your lathe experience.
CBN wheels from Diamond wheel inc. .
do you mean NOS new old stock?
I should have enter NOS. I’m not familiar with that abbreviation but that makes since.
I am a Nixon too.I agree about the foot pedal
