Stripped felling spike screw in 026

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EKreider89

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What’s the best way to fix a stripped out bottom screw for an 026 spike? I’ve heard people using heli-coil but also have heard that’s not the best option? Can you JB weld it? Or is that to permanent? Would drilling out and retapping just lead to another screw getting stripped out? What are some of the reasons these strip in the first place?

Thanks
 
hard to say why its happened.
wag, maybe it came loose, and with use, its just wallowed out the hole ?

ive helicoiled the lower bucking spike on a 660 with good results, no jb weld wont do it.
Get a proper helicoil set, do it right, and it will be a permanent repair.

Most helicoils fail due to not being fitted correctly in the first place.
 
are heli coils hard to install? I’ve never used them in the past. I’m fairly mechanically inclined, but is it a real precise thing to know how to do?
 
are heli coils hard to install? I’ve never used them in the past. I’m fairly mechanically inclined, but is it a real precise thing to know how to do?
Best advice I can give is watch some YouTube videos on how to install them, or have it done by someone who has experience doing it. It’s not too difficult really. If you can drill a straight hole your good. I sink the insert one thread below the surface to prevent the “tail” from pulling out.
 
I should also add your gonna need the full kit which includes all the tools, tap, drill bit, install tool, inserts, etc. they’re not cheap.
Yeah I was looking at those, do you have the heli coil brand? I’m looking at the generic ones on Amazon, I understand you probably get what you pay for but is it worth the extra $?
 
Yeah I was looking at those, do you have the heli coil brand? I’m looking at the generic ones on Amazon, I understand you probably get what you pay for but is it worth the extra $?
Buy the cheap kit complete and cry later.

You can use Heli coil brand with any kit to replace the thread part. That said your kit will not be as robust, check the drill sizes and then decide if they in fact are ok to use. Don't be drilling any hard steel with them. Now remember your going to be fixing a soft alloy not high carbon steel or cast iron motor mount bosses. Even the cheap thread inserts are hit and miss sometimes. Buy, test then decide. If they suck send that junk back and order a different color case 😉

My kit was fine as is and I do use Heli in steel or the stainless steel ones when needed for high load applications or marine use with the SS hardware. Not sure even where to get the SS ones now days but I'm good here.

Thread inserts in softer none magnetic alloys can be anywhere from 30% up to 300% stronger so it's always a win if it fits tight and was done correctly. The only downside might be corrosion with steel so add in some grease or locktite blue when you button it up.
 
Latest helicoil repair I did, I took some pictures, normally dont bother when Im working on saws, but it was worth it for this thread.
Someone had already gone and done a jb repair before me, so I drilled out the jb, ran a tap thru, and fitted a longer helicoil so it reached down into no messed with material and set the helicoil down recessed a bit too.
there are usually 3 different lengths of helicoil.

pics for interest sake.

hcr1.jpghcr2.jpghcr3.jpghcr4.jpghcr5.jpg
 
The best way I have repaired them is rethread the hole to M6 and drill out or file out the hole on the bottom of the spike. Also when I put the M6 screw in I put a little lock tight so it want come loose easy. That is by far the best way from my experience.
 
Time serts are the best they last forever. Helicoil only good in a pinch. Time sert you can take bolts out multiple times helicoils are good for usually one or to times to remove the bolt.
 

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Time serts are the best they last forever. Helicoil only good in a pinch. Time sert you can take bolts out multiple times helicoils are good for usually one or to times to remove the bolt.
I’ve been using heli-coils for well over a decade never had one come out. They’re the industry standard for thread repair. Time-Serts are great but not ideal for every application.
 
Well you can use what you want. I only suggested. I wrench everyday on very high stuff. I used heli coils before. Like I said there good for tighten a bolt and letting it be. But what I do we can’t use them because we break down every bolt we run in our machines. We check our bolts over for stretching etc. 97% of our bolts must come out very smooth with a tee handle and then put back with a tee handle and re-torque to specs. And yes as a professional I do have over 4+ decades using time serts.
 
Well you can use what you want. I only suggested. I wrench everyday on very high stuff. I used heli coils before. Like I said there good for tighten a bolt and letting it be. But what I do we can’t use them because we break down every bolt we run in our machines. We check our bolts over for stretching etc. 97% of our bolts must come out very smooth with a tee handle and then put back with a tee handle and re-torque to specs. And yes as a professional I do have over 4+ decades using time serts.
Not trying to step on any toes here, I can see in your application the time-sert is a better choice. I’ve used them myself and I do like them. I’ve had good results using both.
 
I just bought a well-used 024, the little brother of the 026 and had the same problem. The upper bolt uses a nut, but the lower is threaded into a blind hole. If I remember correctly, the lower fastener was 5mmx12mm, originally. I simply threaded in a longer 5mm screw (5x16? 5x20?) I don't remember which length, and I didn't measure the hole depth, but the longer screw tightened up nicely. In the Helicoil vs Timesert debate, I have used both extensively and would prefer the solid Timesert to the slinky helicoil. I'm sure either would work fine for you, though.
 

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