stump grinder, de-barker

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MikeInParadise said:
I have an extra 16" bars( .325 bar for 260 and a .375 bar for the MS361) and I would just keep it attached to one of these. I am leaning towards using the 260 except for the fact that I use it far more than the 361 and don't see that changing.
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The drive sprocket on it is a regular saw sprocket, so since your saws have the same bar mount (I think) it would be easy to have it on a old bar and put on either(with a sprocket change) when you use it. You'll need to have a chain made for it anyway. I think you will prefer to run it with the 260. I run mine with a 16" on a dedicated saw, but then I have 8 saws. With the wizard on it that sets the tip at about 20" out.
Tho I prefer stihls, I found the huskys air-injection system much better at keeping the filter clean (+ it was given to me). With the 260, you'll need to clean the filter about every 1/2 tank.
Russell
 
Ok it arrived today and there was no charge on picking it up at all. Which kind of surprised me as there is usually a $5.00 customs charge at the Canadian Post office.

Not that I am complaining as $0 is just so much cheaper than $57 charged by UPS.

Here is what is in the package...Interesting note: the nuts and bolts were just thrown in the box, not in a parts bag so I did not find one of the lock washers and had to dig through the wadded up paper to find what I found.

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Here is a close up.

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You would think that the US Postal Service would not allow shipping of mice in a package! :biggrinbounce2:

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I need to pick up an 18 inch chain in order to put it on one of my sixteen inch bars...I think I am going to go .325 on the MS260....
 
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I'd like to see one of these in action. Any chance that camera has a video mode? You can use photobucket.com to drop a small video just like a pic. The more I look at these the more I think I could use one milling for certain dirty logs.
 
Minor glitch in the install.

The sprocket in the debarker does not line up properly with my Stihl 16" .325 .050 bar (part # 3003-003-7113)

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So I put in a couple of fender washters between the unit and the bar so that it will align properly.

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Here is the aligned pictures

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I sent off an Email with the pictures to Hud-Son to see what they say!

Now to pick-up a chain, wait for the rain to stop, so I can put the wood-hauler back together(in pieces in the driveway) and then I can go out to the woodlot and try it out...
 
Thanks mike... I am going to put this on my list of "I want one of them" tools. As said, I can think of many times milling when I could have used one to clean up a dirty part of a log or just get the bark off so my chains and bandsaw blades last longer. I suppose I could make the case that eventually it will pay for itself. I'd dedicate a saw for it though... if I had to change out a saw every time I wanted to use it it wouldn't get used much. I'm lazy that way.
 
aggiewoodbutchr said:
Doesn't look like you'll have much trouble with that....:)
:cheers:
Click to expand...

Yeah well... but... except for that old Mac Cat, which might not have enough power for the thing... I just don't seem right to relegate any of those other saws to JUST that tool. Almost kinda seems like a waste of a good chainsaw. Like buying a Corvette and only using it to drive out to the end of the driveway to get the mail. As silly as it sounds, If and when I get one of these things, I'll probably get a used fixer-upper saw in the 60cc range to mate to it.

Am I spoiled or what! :(
 
Just mount it to an old worn out bar, you don't cut much, if any when its on. Doesn't take long to change a bar out. If you find you use it a lot, then get a saw for it. I use it a lot in working with poles and logs.
Woodshop, as much as you do (log to finish), you might find this a real interesting "roughing out" tool as well as a de-barker. Imagine a heavy-duty planer, unencumbered with guides. Great for hogging out unwanted material fast.
Russell
 
poleframer said:
Just mount it to an old worn out bar, you don't cut much, if any when its on. Doesn't take long to change a bar out. If you find you use it a lot, then get a saw for it. I use it a lot in working with poles and logs.
Woodshop, as much as you do (log to finish), you might find this a real interesting "roughing out" tool as well as a de-barker. Imagine a heavy-duty planer, unencumbered with guides. Great for hogging out unwanted material fast.
Russell
Click to expand...

Thanks Russel, I agree, this thing would come in real handy in the woods for the particular way I mill and procure wood. Worn bars I have plenty of. However I'll want to grab it and use it and keep going. I know it doesn't take long to change out a bar/chain, but it probably will take longer to do that then the 60 seconds I'll run it down the side of a log. I know me pretty well... if I have to futz with a tool setting it up longer than it takes to use it, I will not use it as much. I'm just lazy that way. So still going to dedicate a saw for it.
 
After much use, even tho I prefer the handles of the 026, I'd suggest the husky 51 or one like it. The air filtration system is important. This thing throws a lot more sawdust, and bark chunks at you and the saw than you might guess.
I even added a shroud to cover the starter screen to keep chunks from sticking to it.
 
I finally got to try it out today. I put it on the MS260.

It throws the balance off on the saw big time and I found some new muscles in my arms that obviously don't get used cutting wood. I would not want to put it on any bigger(Heavier that is) saw. I would have trouble using it for more than a hour or two.

It takes a bit of getting used to to get it to not dig in. I found you need to push up the log with it. And those that suggested that you get dirty are right. It throws all the chips directly on your legs.

It stumbles on the knots and the cross grain. I tried it on some smaller stumps and it is not great on those with the cross grain. Doing knots takes a really fine touch.

No problem at all on the filtration on the MS260. I found that it is throwing off slices about the size of a silver dollar and hardly any fine particles at all. The bark type might make a difference.

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Looking good.
Now that you've got a couple of poles under your belt, did you find a big potential for kick back? I've been seriously thinking about getting one of these, but if it's continiously "bucking & jumping" I don't think I'd be as interested.

Andy
 
redprospector said:
Looking good.
Now that you've got a couple of poles under your belt, did you find a big potential for kick back? I've been seriously thinking about getting one of these, but if it's continiously "bucking & jumping" I don't think I'd be as interested.

Andy
Click to expand...

I think that if you had the angle wrong that it would definitely kick back.

I didn't really find it wanting to kick back if you push it forward using the bottom of the blade. If you try and pull it back it hops all over the place.

The knots really bounce it around if you don't use a light touch.

I think it need a bit of time using it to become proficient with it.
 
Well, OK then. Ya see what I mean about not needing anything bigger than a 50cc saw, and it wouldnt be ANY fun wearing shorts! Ya gotta kindof hold it up to control how much it goes into the wood, and if you skin bark with it, it's kind of like a floor sander- gotta keep moving or it'll gouge in.
I can make a pole look hand peeled with much less effort than a spud or drawknife.
Once you get the hang of it, it's like other tools- let it do the work.
Cutting end grain really dosnt work well, grabs and jumps too much. I usually cut branches off pretty close and glaze lightly with the LW, you can get a nice finish that way.
I've had mine 10 yrs now (?,at least 8) ,no problems,no parts,well worth the $200 or so.
 

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