Stump killer?

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fences frequently belong to the neighbor 50% since they separate the properties and might be confining livestock
the fence has to be cut to cut the tree down usually, atleast if its in the stump so either way if the tree is down the fence is probably gone
can always replace a 10ft section in about 30 minutes for $50
 
I didn’t read this whole thread, so I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned yet, but I purchased a product called eraser and sprayed a wooded lot with it and it killed trees up to 10 inches in diameter. It took about a year for them to completely rot, but after a year of after year from sprain, you could walk and push 10 inch diameter trees down in the woods it was kinda scary how well it worked

Eraser herbicide is just an off-brand of Roundup. Nothing special at all, and it has no residual effects, nor does it have any "root absorption" with which to kill trees reliably.
https://www.epestcontrol.com/images/Products/labels/eraseraplabel.pdf
If you were killing somewhat mature trees, I'm guessing that you really sprayed a lot of it all over the area treated,
 
everyone is so quick to dump chemicals all over their property, rent a stump grinder and grind the stumps down 8-10 inches below the dirt, it wont come back...
and you wont get cancer from it

In some parts of the world, you will not get that done effectively, either. Stump grinders don't like rocks at all! I've got a customer that has rocky soil on everything we touch. It's like it was a requirement for that land developer to only consider places with rocky soil.

It can also be argued that stirring the dirt aggressively while grinding a lot of stumps will be more destructive to a local ecology than if you put a minute amount of herbicide on a few stumps. Most herbicides have very little influence on "animals", and many of the herbicides only kill selectively few plants.
 
It can also be argued that stirring the dirt aggressively while grinding a lot of stumps will be more destructive to a local ecology than if you put a minute amount of herbicide on a few stumps.
mixing dirt with the wood from the stump thats been there for 10-20 years, whoopty friggen do
or dump chemicals on it from some other country and get cancer among other issues

not to mention most trees will die once cut down, keep the sprouts cut for a year or two and itll be gone forever, even crepe myrtle which is notorious for growing back, ive never had one that came back even a little after a year of keeping the sprouts cut
 
Your comment reveals your lack of education regarding the ecology and the value of not disturbing the soil.
Even driving around on the ground causes soil compaction, and that causes problems for trees, as well as whatever other organisms might be affected.

I have nothing against stump grinders, and nothing at all against leaving stumps alone. That isn't saying that I don't understand the need to control whether or not the stumps are growing fresh sprouts. This thread wasn't started to discuss whether or not the stumps were a problem. It was started to determine effective treatments.

Arguing for no treatments at all with endless return trips to cut down the new suckers isn't answering the question.
 
everyone is so quick to dump chemicals all over their property, rent a stump grinder and grind the stumps down 8-10 inches below the dirt, it wont come back...
and you wont get cancer from it
Nobody said "dump" chemicals all over the property. Glyphosate works by applying it to the plant and stump itself, not the ground. If you're "dumping" glyphosate all over the ground, you're part of the problem. Please don't apply chemicals to anything thing unless you know what you're doing.
 
Eraser herbicide is just an off-brand of Roundup. Nothing special at all, and it has no residual effects, nor does it have any "root absorption" with which to kill trees reliably.
https://www.epestcontrol.com/images/Products/labels/eraseraplabel.pdf
If you were killing somewhat mature trees, I'm guessing that you really sprayed a lot of it all over the area treated,
This was 10 years or so ago, but I’m telling you it killed all woody plants and trees I sprayed. With great success. Maybe they changed the formula since then I’m not sure, but it was amazing and worked incredibly well.
 
The question becomes whether or not everything died off, or just the brushy plants.

If it looked like a desert when it was done, it was probably just glyphosate. That kills everything but conifers & Junipers, in my experience. I don't think I've ever tried it on any succulents or semi-evergreens.
 
fences frequently belong to the neighbor 50% since they separate the properties and might be confining livestock
the fence has to be cut to cut the tree down usually, atleast if its in the stump so either way if the tree is down the fence is probably gone
can always replace a 10ft section in about 30 minutes for $50
try that on a 1/2 mile of fence line with about 100 trees to come out
 
Good point! Try that on a 1/2 mile of fenceline with about 2000 trees impregnated in it.

I get those, and do them for 1/10th of what the "other guy" is charging. I tell the customer that I can kill all those trees, and the wood will fall off the fence eventually. "You are just trying to keep it from getting worse, right?"

Then they keep paying me year after year, to make sure nothing else grows back.
 
This was 10 years or so ago, but I’m telling you it killed all woody plants and trees I sprayed. With great success. Maybe they changed the formula since then I’m not sure, but it was amazing and worked incredibly well.
Eraser is essentially the same as Roundup Super Concentrate (the purple cap). Eraser is 41% glyphosate and Roundup super is 50%. The mix ratio for Roundup super is 3 tablespoons in a gallon of water. Put it on straight out of the bottle? Probably not the smartest idea.
 
Good point! Try that on a 1/2 mile of fenceline with about 2000 trees impregnated in it.

I get those, and do them for 1/10th of what the "other guy" is charging. I tell the customer that I can kill all those trees, and the wood will fall off the fence eventually. "You are just trying to keep it from getting worse, right?"

Then they keep paying me year after year, to make sure nothing else grows back.
I do them for a friend for free. Tordon is much cheaper and quicker
 
Eraser is essentially the same as Roundup Super Concentrate (the purple cap). Eraser is 41% glyphosate and Roundup super is 50%. The mix ratio for Roundup super is 3 tablespoons in a gallon of water. Put it on straight out of the bottle? Probably not the smartest idea.
No i ratiod it per instructions with a ratio rite
 
Rock salt, dump it right on it! Never mind toxic cancer causing agents!
Lone Wolf, I've been buying plain table salt, in 1 lb. containers, for my fenceline mulberry stumps. I let the stump get shiny wet with sap (depends on conditions, either immediately, or within an hour), then coat the stump with salt. I can report 100% success this year, in my first year of trying this exclusively. Disclaimer: it's been dry this year, so I didn't worry about the salt washing off. My neighbor treated some soft maple stumps with Tordon. He will have more work next year, it appears...
 
Lone Wolf, I've been buying plain table salt, in 1 lb. containers, for my fenceline mulberry stumps. I let the stump get shiny wet with sap (depends on conditions, either immediately, or within an hour), then coat the stump with salt. I can report 100% success this year, in my first year of trying this exclusively. Disclaimer: it's been dry this year, so I didn't worry about the salt washing off. My neighbor treated some soft maple stumps with Tordon. He will have more work next year, it appears...
Soft maple appears to be somewhat resistant to Tordon, usually have to recut and retreat in year 2. I cut about 50 osage orange in a drainage ditch today for a buddy. Love to see someone get down there with a stump grinder. I should quit bleeding by tomorrow!
 
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