Super EZ Auto Running Problems

[87iroc]

I have a late 70s, early 80s Super EZ Auto that won't run right and I decided to come back here to the experts again. You guys helped me about 18 months ago to get an idea of what I had...

The saw will start OK after a few pulls and will run fine for a couple of minutes. After that, it will rev up(like it's going lean) and then die. It will fire back up, rev up and die.

It has something to do with warming up I believe.

So the saw is pretty useless to me now like this.

What have i done to it since I got it running the first time...

-New fuel cap
-New oil cap gasket
-New chain and bar
-New Spark Plug.

I probably should check the fuel cap to see if it isn't letting air come in...but the cap was a new old stock part in the wrapping for a Super EZ, so I think it should be OK.

I have tried adding more oil to the mix to see if maybe I was just running it too lean and that didn't seem to help.

Thoughts? Is it time to get the carb rebuilt?

 

[Fish]

Before investing any more on the saw, remove the muffler cover and look
at the piston.

 

[habanero]

First thing I'd do is put on a new fuel filter and check the fuel line over good to be sure it is not pinched or kinked anywhere. After, that, throw a carb kit in it.

Right after it dies, have you checked for spark? It could be something in the electrical system acting up when it gets hot, and checking the spark would tell you that in a hurry. That being said, I'd put more money on a fuel system problem, though.

 

[87iroc]

Hmmmm, fuel filter, eh.

The thing has never had a new fuel filter so I could buy that. Is that one I have to drag out of the tank or would it be in the case somewhere?

I'll mess with it when it warms up. Thing screams when it's running good.

What am I looking for in the piston? Are you thinking scuffed bore or hole?

 

[Fish]

It is likely scored badly, that is my bet.

 

[habanero]

It is likely scored badly, that is my bet.

Every time I've seen a badly scored cylinder, it's either run or not run. But then by badly scored, I mean material missing. I don't know in 2 cycle engines so much, but in the 4 strokes I've come across, lack of compression usually manifested itself more on a cold engine than a warm one.

Iroc, yes the fuel filter is down in the tank on the end of the hose. It's at least something cheap and simple to try.

 

[87iroc]

Will any chainsaw fuel filter work or is it something I need to order special for the Super EZ ?

 

[Fish]

Yes, it takes a "special" one, which I will sell you for $9.95, and a mere
$4.95 shipping.........................

But you really need to look at the piston first..........
Ask Bsnelling.......

 

[habanero]

Will any chainsaw fuel filter work or is it something I need to order special for the Super EZ ?

Pretty much anything that'll fit on the end of the hose will work. Heck if you don't mind cleaning the screens in the carb, just run it without a filter for a few minutes until it gets warm and you'll know if that's the problem or not.

 

[Mike mandry]

Like Fish said,

Pull the muffler & check the piston. If it checks out, clean & rebuild the carb & replace the fuel line & filter.

Make sure your tank vent is good. Just because you have a NOS cap does not mean the vent is good. The old vents were made of rubber & would rot.

The newer replacement ones are made of silicone & wont rot so easy.

Make sure you get the carb adjusted right, or else.......

 

[87iroc]

Thanks guys, I'll pull the muffler.

What's the chances of the screws being frozen to the housing and breaking them off?

 

[87iroc]

Holy thread resurrection batman...

FINALLY got warm here and I pulled the muffler.

Cylinder looks awesome. Rings and piston look new. Other side of cylinder is nice and shiny with no drag marks or scoring visible.

I'm glad I searched for this thread again as I'll use the other advice now. Check the fuel filter, etc.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

check your duck bill valve