Super Splitter Blade Damaged

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Newf_Caper

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Aug 28, 2009
Messages
30
Reaction score
1
Location
Nova Scotia
I got the Super Splitter a few weeks ago and have split quite a bit of wood with it and am very impressed. I'm used to using an 8lb maul so it has been a bit of an adjustment and I thought I had it figured out when it deflected on impact and the tip of the blade hit some cement :censored:. My fault for having my splitting block on the pavement but I didn't think it could deflect at such an angle to clear the block. Anyways what do you guys think is the best way for me to repair this?
 
Hmmm, I haven't take an chunk the big out.

I file my nicks down (just an ordinary hardware file), then I sharpen with a wet stone while watching TV. Just a glass of water and a wad of paper toweling to keep the stone wet and wipe away the dust as I go.

If it was mine, I'd basically do the same. You end up with the chunk still missing, but smooth and sharp around it.
 
If you trust in yourself and have a bench grinder, grind it down a little past the nick. After, use your popular method of sharpening.
 
I do have a bench grinder and the thought crossed my mind.. but I don't think I wanna even touch the non-damaged part... there is a special coating on the SS head is there not? If so, does filing remove much of the coating?
 
Cant say as I dont own one of those cool little gadgets.. Eventually there will come a day that if it does have a coating, it will have to go. Unless you wanna get a new one everytime you need to sharpen it...
 
Be carefull with that bench grinder! If you do use a bench grinder, do it very slowly so you don't heat up the steel too much. If you get too hot, you ruin the temper of the steel and can make it more brittle. I use a sanding disc on an air sander, or a drill with about 80 grit paper for shaping, then about 160 grain to get the edge, then finish with a file and stone. Keeps the heat down, and has worked for a number of years for me.
 
Call Fiskars see what they say sometimes a company will back up there product even if it is the consumer's fault.
 
Both of mine have chunks like that out of em. Fence row hidden spikes whatever. I bought the fiskars knife and ax sharmner at lowes on closeout for 2 bucks and that thing is about as amazing as the splitter. Just sharpen it and it should in no way effect the performance at all.
 
I have a nick out of mine too, sharpen and cut. The more you take off the more you are likely to mess up the angle and take too much off. Eventually, you will use it/sharpen it past the nick and you will have a brand new one again. Warranty doesn't cover nicks - at least I don't think so. . .
 
Try going on the fiskars.com site and fill out the warranty page and send them a pic, it's worth a shot. Just don't tell them you drove it into your driveway.:)
 
I would gradually, over a period of many sharpenings, work it out.

I have quite a few smaller nicks in mine. Mostly they are from splitting on the ground. When I sharpen, I use a file and try to keep the same angle. Then I finish with the Fiskars sharpener. I go for about 80% of a brand new edge. I figure eventually the major damage will get taken care of.
 
It does still split great, I'll pick up a Fiskars sharpener as some said and overtime it'll be gone. I may try the tire trick I read about on this site to keep it off the ground.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top