the all aussie dribble thread!

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The bearing after emptying a full can of propane onto it...watched it go through a couple of color changes from its natural color to a dull brown like copper onto a bright gold....bits started turning purplish....ran out of gas and immediately doused it with water.

No cracking....I think I'm going to have trouble getting it hot enough whilst it's tightly seated in the hub.1453787151683.jpgnext step

Disconnect computer and get neighbor to stick weld it....
 
can you get the hub off and wip it to some place with a press.

edit: i use and old pipe bender with steel plates cut to size to push the shells out. its a 10T bender.
 
can you get the hub off and wip it to some place with a press.

edit: i use and old pipe bender with steel plates cut to size to push the shells out. its a 10T bender.
Hub is part of the lower control arm.....so can be done just lots more stuffing around.

Onto the 3rd stick weld and water....no joy yet.
 
The weld and water definitely did the trick. Was also able to build up a couple of welds for the punch to work on which got it moving....

Axle spindle now sitting in the deep freeze getting ready for new inners.
 
The weld and water definitely did the trick. Was also able to build up a couple of welds for the punch to work on which got it moving....

Axle spindle now sitting in the deep freeze getting ready for new inners.
Yay! I had a look at a couple of YouTube vids & they run a weld all the way around & they vertually fall out even hot.
Tarski
 
thats how i do it.. mig on full blast and right around. a bit of pigeon **** like that wont do much at all.

Well, this new double roller bearing is a single sealed unit.......just to make it that little bit more difficult for me to fit it in the hub without a press and then press the axle splined stub into the new setup...

QUESTION for those in the know.....

I have the bearing and the axle stub in the deep freeze. I plan on inserting the bearing first into the hub....should I heat the hub trying to get a fraction more nominal bore or will the heat also expand the wall thickness of the hub and negate any gain or make it worse?
 
Well, this new double roller bearing is a single sealed unit.......just to make it that little bit more difficult for me to fit it in the hub without a press and then press the axle splined stub into the new setup...

QUESTION for those in the know.....

I have the bearing and the axle stub in the deep freeze. I plan on inserting the bearing first into the hub....should I heat the hub trying to get a fraction more nominal bore or will the heat also expand the wall thickness of the hub and negate any gain or make it worse?
yes it will help. or go to BOC and get 5kg of dry ice..then dont have to heat other part.
 
Spent the arvo rebuilding this little Stihl, got it in a box all pulled apart, havnt turned the key yet, still need to replace some small parts and mod the muffler.
Clam shell Stihls are fun to work on, ive done a few now, it gets easier.

Yeah, they're heavy-ish, clamshells, non-pro, etc, but for some reason I still really like using my 310. Can't put my finger on why, exactly. Good thing about being a chainsaw repair newbie like me is it is the first and only one I have really worked on, so it being a clamshell means not much without a frame of reference. It is what it is to repair and that seemed fine to me.
 
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