I'll dust off my chains & gear get ready for spring ski,,,, hopin anyhoo
the all aussie dribble thread!
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took dear wife to jail..
graffiti on women's dunny door from old Melbourne jail.. a worthy trip if got the time http://www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au/
Neds last look up
sobering
graffiti on women's dunny door from old Melbourne jail.. a worthy trip if got the time http://www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au/
Neds last look up
sobering
2strokenut
One nut loose
2nd that it is a good look.
chippy
Addicted to ArboristSite
VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
lake glenmaggie got a top up this week it seems lol
http://www.srw.com.au/water-systems/lake-glenmaggie/
http://www.srw.com.au/water-systems/lake-glenmaggie/
chippy
Addicted to ArboristSite
So did Tyers....they're all overflowing like mad
Snowy01
ArboristSite Operative
Hey, probably been asked before, but has anyone got any tricks to replacing the rubber on a handle.
I cut the old ratty one off my 084, pull a new one of a 1/2 wrap I had (using heat, wd40, swearing etc....)
Now this particular 084 has a heater element for the bar so I'm going to have to feed it though first, then push the rubber over the top, I'm thinking sheep grease because it dries but wondering if anyone has a trick or two.
Cheers
I cut the old ratty one off my 084, pull a new one of a 1/2 wrap I had (using heat, wd40, swearing etc....)
Now this particular 084 has a heater element for the bar so I'm going to have to feed it though first, then push the rubber over the top, I'm thinking sheep grease because it dries but wondering if anyone has a trick or two.
Cheers
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
orbital sander not an angle grinder
Why would you want to clean em up?.. They look to be good for nuffing hard nose bars!? and way too slow for chainsaw racing and crap power robbing good for nuffing bars! we all know that ya crazy Kiwi! haha..
Sorry could not help ma self running hard nose bars is an art many don't have anymore they be stumping bars apparently?.. I honestly can't tell the difference between running the two types of bars but then I'm schooled in the old art of running hard nose bars.. All though I don't race saws and such so I'm a dill I guess but in truth It doesn't faze me hard nose or sprocket nose meh nothing in it really if ya know what ya doing... We had two sawmills at one time one hardwood and one softwood Radiata/Slash ect and I got efficient at running sprocket nose bars and square filing but here's not everywhere I guess.. I use what works best for the job at hand whatever that may be drawing on my limited experiences cutting timber thingys..Personally my favorite setup is an Aussie 660/066 running .404 RS round hand filed chain 7pin 20/25 inch bar now that's working and getting **** done chomping on wood day in day out! to me they fall on their face pulling full comp over 25in (.404) in hardwood and no I'm not talking softer Hardwood like River Red Gum but that's just me 3/8 chain would help on longer bars but I got better things to do than sharpen a chain in under half a tank of fuel that's where .404 shines hard working chain be that stuff!..a ms660 tis definitely one of the lightest things I get to pick up in a working day and silly me I must be giving up half a second in the cut not running a Husky 390 and at lest 4min in the cut not running a ported saw? well Ill be buggered WTF? ya joking cant be true can it for real? I want one them ported saws now haha....
No wait silly me what the hell am I thinking one glove fits all! we all know that! haha...
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
So they'll suck a bit of power, so what. My 241 has power to burn anyway. You don't know WTF you are talking about and it shows. Main thing is it'll be nose-heavy, but I've got a hole saw for the drill somewhere, so I'm way ahead of that problem already - gonna port the bar - open it up a bit and let it breath. Should be good for another 2/10ths of SFA of a second on 18" cookie cuts.
ArthurB
ArboristSite Member
Have you tried just cutting a whole lot of wood up with it ... ?
I've never had a rusty bar (inland), but given that normal use strips the paint off pretty quick it might well do the same to rust ...
Snowy01
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah, that would sort it out
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Cutting wood explicitly voids the Stihl warranty, so I'm just after a piss revving 241 for the shelf.
But seriously, yeah, that's how i keep my other bars clean-ish but these ones haven't seen wood for I reckon 10 years and I just wanted to clean one up and see what it looked like under all the rust. Will try to find a 40-grit belt tomorrow and make a few sparks.
But seriously, yeah, that's how i keep my other bars clean-ish but these ones haven't seen wood for I reckon 10 years and I just wanted to clean one up and see what it looked like under all the rust. Will try to find a 40-grit belt tomorrow and make a few sparks.
Now now KiwiBro I made sure I never did put in print I knew what the hell I was talking about not that I ever will/would I just do **** with timber and I know its all wrong anyways this is the internet! haha..
Am happy to see your running a 241 with them bars there is absolutely no need to run more saw and over power em! tis good to see you know this and see the risks of doing so and are erring on the side of caution more power= burnt out hardnose thingy we all know that!..
Just a suggestion for the nose-heavy thingy but have you tried eating more? maybe weigh the back end of the saw down some putting on some weight? just putting it out there might work?...And as for the sideway balance thing? (it's a Stihl) sorry but I'm of no help on this but maybe a wooden leg and or say lead sinkers in one boot? on the opposite side the negative gravity side again just putting it out there it might help?... Truthfully me think's sawtroll may be of more help on this subject of sideway balance than me yes? see the internets did teach me something life is good!
...Oh yeah on a side note have you ever had one of them aluminium bung thingys fall out of a bar It don't take long to release any hole in a bar is useless based on how stuck packed in with sawdust a bar will get in the cut thanks to that **** of a little hole! must be why we never hear back from the guys all excited about the lighting of bars with a hole saw haha...
Anyways we all know less oil in da mix = a lighter saw in da hand kind of an old school trick that one
.....
On a serious note Kiwi orbital sander works great on shallow rust pitting on a bar..
But in a case like this of deep rust pitting you will never remove enough steel to get below the pits, best to go with a wire wheel to clean the pits out then finish it off with fine grit sandpaper on say an orbital sander.
chippy
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1 wire wheel
Watch out for your fingers when it bites in at decent rmp, it hurts.
Watch out for your fingers when it bites in at decent rmp, it hurts.
