the axe thread

[hangnail]

I am in the market for some good splitting tools. not hydro work here, (maybe someday)

I would like to find a reasonable priced axe, a good maul, and varouis wedges and a good sledge.

I know about the fiskars, but everyone complains about the short handle. but what else is there that is reasonably priced that works well. I have a super cheap harbor frieght axe which struggles to keep a sharp edge, and i think the metal is too soft, go all the way through and hit a rock, or a nail or something, and there is a nice little ding that isnt all that easy to get out.

so what are you guys using, whats the easiest to swing, what has the best balance, what stays the sharpest?

lots of info on hydro splitters, but the axe threads are tough to find, and often go off subject

I grew up swinging axes and mauls, never used a splitter before. we would anually put about 6 cords away, cut and split by hand. I have about 4 cords right now that need to be cut and split, looking forward to the release of stress.

 

[rngrchad]

Fiskars are great, and you can get them anywhere. You can make up for the short handles by just raising your rounds by a foot and a half. Place'm on top of another tall round and your good to go. Kinda makes up for the short handles.

Just food for though.

 

[chainsawaddict]

I really only like a maul for splitting.

I have a snow and neally single bit, as well as a baileys competition work axe.

I really like the work axe, i have some trouble getting one that wasnt damaged, but a 6 lb axe is a lot of fun for limbing felled trees. 3-4" limbs in one swing, effortlessly. gotta watch knots and frozen wood though, the steel is kinda hard, but holds a good edge because of it. I dont split with it for that reason. It is made in China.:censored:

Snow and Neally is now made in mexico, old ones on ebay sometimes...

They are still "snow and neally" though. Good stuff.

I would like to get a Gransfors Bruks (sp) sometime.

 

[Farmall Guy]

My favorite ax is my old double bit ax that was may grandfathers, (he probly got it from a flea market as an old ax also) My recomendation would be to search your local flea markets, yard sales and posiably antique shops (the last one will demand a higher price) Old ax heads can usuly be had for 10-50 dollars, ad a new handle and you're back in buisness. The old ones hold a real good edge too.

When it comes to ballance I really like the double bit, but an old single bit will also be balenced quite well compared to the cheap modern ones from home depot or the like (not fiskars or the other high end axes).

 

[chainsawaddict]

My favorite ax is my old double bit ax that was may grandfathers, (he probly got it from a flea market as an old ax also) My recomendation would be to search your local flea markets, yard sales and posiably antique shops (the last one will demand a higher price) Old ax heads can usuly be had for 10-50 dollars, ad a new handle and you're back in buisness. The old ones hold a real good edge too.

When it comes to ballance I really like the double bit, but an old single bit will also be balenced quite well compared to the cheap modern ones from home depot or the like (not fiskars or the other high end axes).

I prefer the single bit when im in the woods, for pounding wedges and such.

 

[Farmall Guy]

I prefer the single bit when im in the woods, for pounding wedges and such.

There is that, they both have there place

 

[chainsawaddict]

There is that, they both have there place

Im embarassed to admit it, but ive never swung a double bit axe.:monkey: What are the benefits?

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Im embarassed to admit it, but ive never swung a double bit axe.:monkey: What are the benefits?

less walking. You don't have to go back to the toolshed to resharpen in dirty wood.

They do have more weight in the head and seem to get through the rounds a bit better. Longer head feels better balanced as it strikes the round. The handle on them seems to be a bit longer for more arc in the swing.

Hangnail, A few years back the (then) wife bought me a new axe from W-Mart. The head was cast and painted in black. It took quite a bit to get it anywhere close to what I had been using for splitting. The first thing it needed was to be sharpened. Then the cutting face needed polished. Like yours it wouldn't stay sharp so it ended up getting some of the paint burned off when I heat treated the end and quenched it in oil. Time for more polishing to keep it from sticking in the rounds so bad. It started getting better by then.

If I didn't know better I would have thought she was mad at me. Probably over something I didn't know about and this was her way of punishing me. Come to think of it she was on her way out about that time. LOL

I've since loaned it out hoping it didnt return and haven't been disappionted.

 

[Techstuf]

Looks to me like they copied the Vario head from Fiskars or vice versa:

And the Gerber splitting axe is made by Fiskars:

The Fiskars head is good design.....I wonder if anyone's ever put together a longer handle?



TS

 

[excess650]

Stihl dealers have the Stihl logo'd Oxhead axes made in Germany.

Husqvarna is selling Wetterlings(Swedish) with their own logo. These are handforged, and they have axes, splitting axes and a maul.

Gransfor Buruks are also made in Sweden and quite $$.

I have both Fiskars and Husqvarna axes in addition to a generic single bit and a maul. I much prefer the Fiskars to the maul. I haven't put the Husqvarna axes to wood as of yet, but don't expect to be disappointed. Ths lighter Fiskars "Pro Chopping Axe" works better than would seem possible. Between its feather weight and resultant speed, and very sharp, well shaped edge, its a major surprise.

The larger Fiskars splitting axe is heavier, and will split more stubborn wood than the lighter chopping axe. If the two of them can't get it done, I'll make noodles with the chainsaw.

 

[Orange Hill]

Im embarassed to admit it, but ive never swung a double bit axe.:monkey: What are the benefits?

On thing that you will notice with a single bit ax is that they tend to want to twist side to side if you use them for cutting where the double headed ax bites better. You can use that natural twisting tendency of a single bit to your advantage when splitting. I know some people attack the middle of the round and split it in half and then break it into small pieces. I like to start on the outer edges and work around as this takes advantage of what the ax wants to do and there is less resistance on one side which also helps break off pieces. I could not find a Fiskars locally so I bought one of those red handled Ames splitting axes for $30. I am fairly happy with the ax which has a made in India head and Chinese handle, but assembled in the USA .

It does a decent job in green eucalyptus and live oak which are both stringy woods. I plan to still get a Fiskars and maybe a Stihl splitting ax as I have AAD even though I have a hydraulic splitter. I also use my old made in the USA double bit ax every once in a while when I want to fell a tree the fun way.

 

[Farmall Guy]

less walking. You don't have to go back to the toolshed to resharpen in dirty wood.

They do have more weight in the head and seem to get through the rounds a bit better. Longer head feels better balanced as it strikes the round. The handle on them seems to be a bit longer for more arc in the swing.

Hangnail, A few years back the (then) wife bought me a new axe from W-Mart. The head was cast and painted in black. It took quite a bit to get it anywhere close to what I had been using for splitting. The first thing it needed was to be sharpened. Then the cutting face needed polished. Like yours it wouldn't stay sharp so it ended up getting some of the paint burned off when I heat treated the end and quenched it in oil. Time for more polishing to keep it from sticking in the rounds so bad. It started getting better by then.

If I didn't know better I would have thought she was mad at me. Probably over something I didn't know about and this was her way of punishing me. Come to think of it she was on her way out about that time. LOL

I've since loaned it out hoping it didnt return and haven't been disappionted.

Well said, the added weight and balance is why I prefer mine over the single bit. I carry a hatchet for driving wedges, but may upgrade to a single bit with a 16" handle that I have, I cut the handle off short after it got run over and broke the end off When it comes to splitting I like to go at the round from the sides, for me both axes seem to do a good job when hitting the round in the right spots.

It may sound strange but I prefer to limb small trees with an ax, I find I can get the job done in a reasonable amount of time and save the saw gas for turning the rest of it into fire wood. (not to mention the ax provides a good work out) For that the double bit is great the extra weight and balance makes knocking a 3" limb off in 1 well placed swing a breeze. It also allows me to take the ear plugs out for a litttle while and listen to the sounds of the woods.

 

[chainsawaddict]

It may sound strange but I prefer to limb small trees with an ax, I find I can get the job done in a reasonable amount of time and save the saw gas for turning the rest of it into fire wood. (not to mention the ax provides a good work out) For that the double bit is great the extra weight and balance makes knocking a 3" limb off in 1 well placed swing a breeze. It also allows me to take the ear plugs out for a litttle while and listen to the sounds of the woods.

I agree. Great time to let the dog out of the pick up( i dont let her out when the saw is running) and realize the boss isnt looking over your shoulder. Good times.

 

[ASEMASTER]

double bit

I was taught from my grandad who was a forest cruiser that a double bit Ax was to be sharpened in two different ways, one side narrow and sharp for cutting across the grain. the other side sharp but blunt or wide for cutting along the grain or splitting.

 

[chainsawaddict]

I was taught from my grandad who was a forest cruiser that a double bit Ax was to be sharpened in two different ways, one side narrow and sharp for cutting across the grain. the other side sharp but blunt or wide for cutting along the grain or splitting.

That makes sense.

I think I need a double bit axe

 

[Farmall Guy]

I was taught from my grandad who was a forest cruiser that a double bit Ax was to be sharpened in two different ways, one side narrow and sharp for cutting across the grain. the other side sharp but blunt or wide for cutting along the grain or splitting.

Hadnt thought about that, makes sense though. 2 tools in 1, I've been sharpening both bits on 1 of mine real narrow for limbing and cross cutting that way when 1 gets dull I have a second edge to keep on working. I carry this ax in the tool box on my truck in case I run across a down tree on my way to work or where ever. Living on a dead end road I have had to cut my way out a couple times to get to work and having an ax is alot quicker than turning around to get a saw. My other double bit ax is sharpened a little fatter, I use that one more for splitting but it still dose a decent job cutting across the grain when needed.

 

[hangnail]

good stuff, i think i am looking at a few options to purchase here,

are the sthil and husky axes worth the money? they seem to be rebadged axes, but i have dealers close that can get them, or have them in stock, although my stilh dealer was out of the them the last time i was there

 

[chainsawaddict]

This thread got me thinking.
Is there a good axe and/or maul made in the USA these days??:monkey:

 

[hangnail]

it seems that maybe most of the usa uses a hydrolic splitter, but the rest of the world still swings an axe,

 

[excess650]

I enjoy splitting with an axe, and like good tools as well. The Fiskars goes against my "handforged steel and hickory mentality", but is definitely a great tool for the job. The Husqvarna rebadged Wetterlings axes are only coated with a clear sealant so the evidence of handforging, tempering, and sharpening are evident. The Stihl axes are nicley finished albeit without the witness marks of the Wetterlings. Both the Swedish and German axes are shaped and tempered for the intended task, so no worries about quality. I can't say the same for the commonly available axes and mauls, cast and not forged, with other than wood handles.

Admittedly, I've gone to cutting wood shorter to make it easier to split. It dries more quickly and is easier to load into the stove.