MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Outfreakingstanding! I've worked big pines and oaks, but the highest I've tasted was maybe 100, 115 feet.
I can't imagine trees over 200 feet.
I would LOVE to work one of those to the ground!
Weather permitting!
The best biner
- Thread starter Eagle1
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Outfreakingstanding! I've worked big pines and oaks, but the highest I've tasted was maybe 100, 115 feet.
I can't imagine trees over 200 feet.
I would LOVE to work one of those to the ground!
Weather permitting!
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wouldn't it be cooler to just climb them?
The pic is of two of the Danish arbos that came over to climb a 315' redwood with Jerry B and me last July. We're at about 260' in the pic.
Tom
The pic is of two of the Danish arbos that came over to climb a 315' redwood with Jerry B and me last July. We're at about 260' in the pic.
Tom
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Tom, thats where we differ....
NickfromWI
Addicted to ArboristSite
MB doesn't like trees, remember? He just uses them for money.
love
nick
love
nick
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
what was we talkin about?
Somehow I don't think you've read Master Blaster's bio, available at Amazon.com for $29.95 with some signed copies on e-bay.
But not to derail the diversion......, the opening question was:
I've shown a Kong Autolock. I've used a Petzl Attache ball lock, I've used a Petzl William in that spot. I think any autolock aluminum biner would function well there.
My question is, why the heck would you spend the dough on a stainless steel clevis or a swivel. A swivel is $44 and there's nothing in the link from the flipline to the camming device that swivels, or needs to swivel. If you use a clevis or swivel, you lose the ability to off and on it , one-handed, instantly. Same with a Maillon Rapide of any shape; screw on, screw off
I can't imagine why you would want to have to screw and unscrew a smallish device over one-handing an autolock biner. Can you accidentally drop that pin, or is it somehow captive? If it's inconvenient to repetitively screw and unscrew a swivel or twisted clevis, then you're likely to leave it permanently attached to your D-ring.....
Wait a second. You can't tell me that THAT is how climbers do it. Please tell me it's not so. Let me envision this, because it's just a way that I've never done it. OK, flipline is affixed to your right side saddle.
Flipline goes left, just across the belly and is attached to your adjusting device via a swivel or twisted clevis.
Flipline continues around you (twice for an 8 footer) and clips back to your saddle. It is out of the way and ready for use.
Upon use, unclp the aluminum snap, unwrap from around the midsection, and then.... unscrew twis ted cle vis from your D ring, go around the tree and screw the pin back into the swivel or twisted clevis.
Hmmm. Can anyone offer me enlightenment on why you would NOT want to use an aluminum autolock in this critical position? Me and Eagle1 would like to know.
Somehow I don't think you've read Master Blaster's bio, available at Amazon.com for $29.95 with some signed copies on e-bay.
But not to derail the diversion......, the opening question was:
I've shown a Kong Autolock. I've used a Petzl Attache ball lock, I've used a Petzl William in that spot. I think any autolock aluminum biner would function well there.
My question is, why the heck would you spend the dough on a stainless steel clevis or a swivel. A swivel is $44 and there's nothing in the link from the flipline to the camming device that swivels, or needs to swivel. If you use a clevis or swivel, you lose the ability to off and on it , one-handed, instantly. Same with a Maillon Rapide of any shape; screw on, screw off
I can't imagine why you would want to have to screw and unscrew a smallish device over one-handing an autolock biner. Can you accidentally drop that pin, or is it somehow captive? If it's inconvenient to repetitively screw and unscrew a swivel or twisted clevis, then you're likely to leave it permanently attached to your D-ring.....
Wait a second. You can't tell me that THAT is how climbers do it. Please tell me it's not so. Let me envision this, because it's just a way that I've never done it. OK, flipline is affixed to your right side saddle.
Flipline goes left, just across the belly and is attached to your adjusting device via a swivel or twisted clevis.
Flipline continues around you (twice for an 8 footer) and clips back to your saddle. It is out of the way and ready for use.
Upon use, unclp the aluminum snap, unwrap from around the midsection, and then.... unscrew twis ted cle vis from your D ring, go around the tree and screw the pin back into the swivel or twisted clevis.
Hmmm. Can anyone offer me enlightenment on why you would NOT want to use an aluminum autolock in this critical position? Me and Eagle1 would like to know.
Derailer
I hate bidding removals. Too often they are commodity based.
Pruning work gives me the highest returns and some great climbing challenges. Plus it is nice to see a beautiful finished product.
Removals are a mental challenge at times requiring a greater team effort. I love that aspect of removals.
Plus removals are just easy to know when you are done. There is no doubt when you are done. Tree gone = DONE. No call a week later requesting just one more limb.
Sorry TM. On my lanyard I just use a 4/2vt with some XTC and 2 ball locks.
I hate bidding removals. Too often they are commodity based.
Pruning work gives me the highest returns and some great climbing challenges. Plus it is nice to see a beautiful finished product.
Removals are a mental challenge at times requiring a greater team effort. I love that aspect of removals.
Plus removals are just easy to know when you are done. There is no doubt when you are done. Tree gone = DONE. No call a week later requesting just one more limb.
Sorry TM. On my lanyard I just use a 4/2vt with some XTC and 2 ball locks.
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
The only time I take my lanyard off my saddle is to change ropes.
Paolo and I'll be doing a lanyard talk at the tree on Thursday. See you there!
Tom
Paolo and I'll be doing a lanyard talk at the tree on Thursday. See you there!
Tom
Stumper
One Man Band
My lanyard stays on my saddle but I like being able to unclip either side. 90+% of the time I'm clipping/unclipping the left side but sometimes having the option of removing the right is helpful.
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
Stumper sums it up for me. TJK is a bit vague, however. I can see never wanting to remove the lanyard from ONE of the D-rings (I did this for many years), but for the other, removal is a must, which is why I strongly question the clevis /swivel.
I favor the stiffness of the wirecore flipline, especially in getting your hips adjusted toward the tree. Grab the flipline coming out of the rear of the device (left side), swivel your hips clockwise, you are readjusted tighter in. Using a hitch, I see guys grabbing the lanyard coming out the back with their left, reaching across their torso with their right hand to advance the friction hitch while moving their hips forward to release tension off the lanyard.
Maybe I'm just watching the wrong guy. He makes it look more complicated than I'm used to, especially when you multiply those little extra efforts X 50 or 100 or however many times in a day you readjust.
As far as removing the (double-ended) lanyard from the right side; I'm probably so used to all the years of having it permanently affixed, that I just don't remove it very often, mebbe just a couple times a week. This would be while on rope, needing to do a treacherous hard right lean I'll flipline around an adjacent limb and clip both snaps to the left side. That's about the only time. It's about having the option, not necessarily using the option. Positioning yourself is what cuttin's all about -TM-
I think this is stated toward the hitch, and it's relative length. With a device it's always going to be close because the camming device can only be a clevis length, swivel length or biner length from the D-ring.
I favor the stiffness of the wirecore flipline, especially in getting your hips adjusted toward the tree. Grab the flipline coming out of the rear of the device (left side), swivel your hips clockwise, you are readjusted tighter in. Using a hitch, I see guys grabbing the lanyard coming out the back with their left, reaching across their torso with their right hand to advance the friction hitch while moving their hips forward to release tension off the lanyard.
Maybe I'm just watching the wrong guy. He makes it look more complicated than I'm used to, especially when you multiply those little extra efforts X 50 or 100 or however many times in a day you readjust.
As far as removing the (double-ended) lanyard from the right side; I'm probably so used to all the years of having it permanently affixed, that I just don't remove it very often, mebbe just a couple times a week. This would be while on rope, needing to do a treacherous hard right lean I'll flipline around an adjacent limb and clip both snaps to the left side. That's about the only time. It's about having the option, not necessarily using the option. Positioning yourself is what cuttin's all about -TM-
Stumper
One Man Band
TM, Yes, you HAVE been watching the wrong guy. A good friction hitch with a simple slack tender (a brass swivel snap with the rope threaded through the swivel eye) makes for simple one hand adjustments.
NickfromWI
Addicted to ArboristSite
Please have that person contact me. He needs a new flipline...or maybe just a modification of his new one!
love
nick
love
nick
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
You don't ever remove both sides, (if I'm reading you correctly). You remove one side or the other, and almost always you remove the left. This is simply to re-route your flipline.
You mention, "...while doing a takedown" Mebbe you're talking about chunking your way down a spire, then no, you don't remove it, just adjust it out as you work down into bigger diameter. During this effort you have your flipline as primary support, and your climbing line girthed around the tree and attached to you as a secondary support.
But as for normal pruning and positioning of yourself, this is reversed. You're working on rope, moving about. You get to a place where a cut is to be made and then you set you flipline of lanyard. Once you're secured at two points, then you cut.
I did a giant sprawling mulberrry takedown yesterday over a garage w/ continuous gutters, two ornamental trees at the base and a record 14 lines running under, and through the canopy, 3 power and 11 phone and cable. The tree was a short distance from a pole hub. I probably removed that left side flipline 200 times during the procedure, but the right side only twice.
The moment I remove the right side is when I'm, say, on a limbwalk. I'm on rope and I have fliplined and adjusted around a nearby limb. Two tie in points. I saw advantage, in two particular situations, to remove right side flipline and clip onto the left. This takes a second or two and allows me unencumbered right side reach, a bit more reach length than prior, and no cable coming across my belly while I fire up that saw. But never, ever have I removed both sides of my flipline while doing ANYTHING in the air.
Did that answer the question? -TM-
You mention, "...while doing a takedown" Mebbe you're talking about chunking your way down a spire, then no, you don't remove it, just adjust it out as you work down into bigger diameter. During this effort you have your flipline as primary support, and your climbing line girthed around the tree and attached to you as a secondary support.
But as for normal pruning and positioning of yourself, this is reversed. You're working on rope, moving about. You get to a place where a cut is to be made and then you set you flipline of lanyard. Once you're secured at two points, then you cut.
I did a giant sprawling mulberrry takedown yesterday over a garage w/ continuous gutters, two ornamental trees at the base and a record 14 lines running under, and through the canopy, 3 power and 11 phone and cable. The tree was a short distance from a pole hub. I probably removed that left side flipline 200 times during the procedure, but the right side only twice.
The moment I remove the right side is when I'm, say, on a limbwalk. I'm on rope and I have fliplined and adjusted around a nearby limb. Two tie in points. I saw advantage, in two particular situations, to remove right side flipline and clip onto the left. This takes a second or two and allows me unencumbered right side reach, a bit more reach length than prior, and no cable coming across my belly while I fire up that saw. But never, ever have I removed both sides of my flipline while doing ANYTHING in the air.
Did that answer the question? -TM-
