The bore cutting rage/fad

[Ed*L]

I don't use a bore cut very often either. Most of my leaners end up leaning the wrong way, a bore cut isn't going to defy gravity. Easier to rig and pull it.

IIRC the basic instruction/safety video the Husky put out years ago showed all trees being bore cut.

Ed

 

[turnkey4099]

<snip> I don't get why some of y'all are so against bore cuts, though. It's one more useful technique, among many.

I really don't see many "against" it. I see many who are against using commonly.

I agree with Clearance's OP. It is recommended way too often. I was just thinking about the subject yesterday wondering why all of a sudden bore cutting was seemingly the only way to fall a tree. His points about more time at the stump, more screwing around, etc. are correct.

I saw "being able to set up so everything is aimed properly" mentioned a couple times. Just how does bore cutting change anything? You still cut the notch (whatever type) first and that sets the whole process.

It is one of serveral techniques and is valuable in its place but it is not a pacea.

Harry K

 

[GASoline71]

I really don't see many "against" it. I see many who are against using commonly.

I agree with Clearance's OP. It is recommended way too often. I was just thinking about the subject yesterday wondering why all of a sudden bore cutting was seemingly the only way to fall a tree. His points about more time at the stump, more screwing around, etc. are correct.

I saw "being able to set up so everything is aimed properly" mentioned a couple times. Just how does bore cutting change anything? You still cut the notch (whatever type) first and that sets the whole process.

It is one of serveral techniques and is valuable in its place but it is not a pacea.

Harry K

Good post Harry... that is correct, not one of us has said that the bore cut is bad or shouldn't be done. I have used it myself on heavy head leaners. On trees that are leaning but not heavy head leaners, I will use a triangle and wedges.

The bore cut is actually more technical than you guys tend to make it seem. The only reason I say it is not as "safe" is because of more time at the stump. But if you are cuttin' 12" to 18" trees, I guess it doesn't matter. To be honest with you guys... I don't know where you find the room in the stump to bore cut a 12" leaning tree.

Just for the record... bore cuttin' a 40" Doug Fir can be a real PITA.:biggrinbounce2:

Gary

 

[Cedarkerf]

I think its like smoke chase mentioned ways back its tends to be geographic. I also look at their 70 degree under cuts with wonderment. The bore cut is like having an 880 and cutting everything from your Christmas tree pruning your fruit trees to cutting big wood. It will do them all but a bunch of extra work but perfect for some work.

 

[JimL]

why does it matter? If thats the way you cut a tree then fine, cut the damn thing.
I bore quite a few. Something with lots of value I will bore and make my hinge pretty small, cut strap and send it sailing. Depending on wood types, saves pulling splinters alot of times...

 

[Ianab]

I saw "being able to set up so everything is aimed properly" mentioned a couple times. Just how does bore cutting change anything? You still cut the notch (whatever type) first and that sets the whole process.

It's not so much the aiming, it's getting the hingewood formed properly. I agree the notch basically aims the tree, and that's cut the same ( and first) in any sensible method.

What the bore cut lets you do is form the hinge next, unstead of trying to get it right in the last second as the tree starts to move. You might rush, cut too much and sever the hinge. Or cut too slow and get fibre pull or barberchair. With a bore cut you can take your time, eyeball the saw and the notch properly and get things right. You even have time to look up occasionally, but as the tree isn't starting to move so it's less likely objects are going to drop out of the tops.

Like I said, conventional tree - conventional backcut is fine. But when you get something different it may not be the best method.

Cheers

Ian

 

[GASoline71]

I give up...

Gary

 

[Cedarkerf]

I give up...

Gary

Its an everywhere but PNW thing well never understan.:deadhorse:

 

[beowulf343]

As an Arborist the large butts that I fall are usually topped out anyway, and always have a pull line as close to the top as possible. I am in agreement with your WTF? stance on bore cutting. I just don't get it...........

+1

 

[lxt]

I helped a logging crew during a period I was layedoff, the reason they bore cut was to eliminate checking, I really didnt see the point untill I used the traditional notch and drop method.

The hinge tears the centers now your thinkin no big deal, I didnt think it was either, but get paid for the board feet of lumber and every inch counts.

now whether this is a common practice or just some loggers wantin to show the line clearance guys they can do something different, I dont know.

but they were a fun bunch, & I did learn the bore cut so I gained knowledge about somethin.

LXT..........................

 

[ShoerFast]

Are people just using it to be "cool", basically, WTF? And please state your experience, weekend warrior/firewood getter, arborist, faller, etc, thank you.

WTF (weekend tree feller) here again but ,just starting out, running tally, it seems that there are more pros then cons? More reasons then just simply calling it a fad, what am I missing?

 

[clearance]

Occasional weekend warrior here. I cut mostly smaller trees for firewood and trail clearing. I like the bore cut for the ones where I don't have room for a wedge in the backcut. I also use it on leaners. I first started using it when cutting stumps off.

This bore cut phenomenom is definetly a regional thing. The bore cut method is extolled as safer, but there are a couple of things to consider, first, you spend more time at the stump looking at your cuts, more time and opportunity for a widowmaker to get you. Second, there is a possiblity you could cut off too much or not enough holding wood, this applies to any backcut, but moreso here I believe. Also, it requires more skill to place the cut if you have to two side it. You can't just walk the saw around. Now TWilson brings up something I hear here quite often, "no room for a wedge", there is always room for a wedge, simple, make your backcut first and stick in a wedge, then make the undercut, be carefull to leave enough holding wood. I do this all the time, it is approved here. As far as loggers bore cutting, yes they do, but not like we are talking about.

 

[grizzly2]

Just my two cents, but, I definitely use the bore cut method. Not even close to all the time, but often enough. I've been an arborist for 12 years now, and have found it to be a great technique when control is the name of the game. Whether this is because of the extra time it takes (allowing me to methodically fell the tree/spar) or because of the ability to set up a good hinge, make sure the load is on the tagline at the right time (someone pulling or mechanical advantage), add wedges at the last minute, whatever before cutting the holding strap. I agree with those that think it's overused. I also see the trend of the region thing. That's it, I think it has a place, but not everywhere. Some people just like to be cool, and use newer techniques (makes them feel cutting edge - pun intended)

 

[KMB]

clearance, GASonline71, rbtree,

A few questions from a tree falling rookie (to date have only fallen 2 trees properly and safely by myself, 1 tree with coaching from an experienced friend, and 1 a few years ago that went down okay - but I now know was not done quite properly). Most all of the wood I cut is already down. Not trying to be a smartarse...just learning. When y'all say 'triangle', is that what is also called an 'open-faced' face cut? And you use this for leaners, falling with the natural lean of the tree?

From what I've read here (and other places), bore cutting a leaner is to prevent barber chairs? Again, not to be a smartarse, so a triangle (open-face?) face cut and regular back-cut (with wedges) on a leaner will prevent a barber chair? Just wanting to learn.

Kevin

 

[Burvol]

I would have to say "leaners" are the only reason I have used a "strap" cut as it is called here, to save some wood from pulling off the stump, and that is all.

 

[booboo]

20 years as an arborist, alternating between full-time and part-time (part time at present).

I use bore cuts, but not all that often. Why make more cuts than necessary? It takes longer and gives you more chance to screw up. However, I bore cut heavy front leaners of species that have a tendency to barberchair, like poplar, and also like it a lot combined with wedges on smaller diameter back leaners where I'm falling against the lean, without a rope. I've never bore cut a tree that has had a rope in it, no need to. We pull it or if needed, add a come-along or a winch. If it's got too much weight to do that safely, then it's chunked down. But I'd also rather not climb a tree if it's not necessary so I'll always look for a way to fall it from the ground first.

My theory on falling is, whatever is the safest method is the best. Coming in a close second is speed. Who cares about "looking cool"? I won't bore cut if I don't have to, but used in the right place, it's an excellent tool to have available.

And yes, I'm in the northeast and was first exposed to bore cutting in college, taught by instructors who had been taught by the Swedes. So I agree that it's a regional thing.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I've never bore cut a tree that has had a rope in it, no need to.

The reason I will bore a tree/spar with a rope in it is I will set it up for the pull and then call the ground people over for the pull, weather hand or wich, when the strap is ready to be cut.

Yes, some people over use any new method, as they learn it and get comfortable. I know guys who rig nearly everything. After a while they will come around to realizing the old tried and true also has a place.

now whether this is a common practice or just some loggers wantin to show the line clearance guys they can do something different, I dont know.

If they had a venner quality log, they were required to do it.

I have a buddy who was on a helo logging crew for a few season. They would fly out to an oak/walnut forest and he would top out the trees in the best manner to not damage anything near by. He had to bore the face with a maximum of 2 in of hinge on each side of the log.

He was paid $40 a tree and could average 8 a day

When y'all say 'triangle', is that what is also called an 'open-faced' face cut?

I think they are talking about a triabgular hinge that is fatter on one side helping to stear the fall.

But if you are cuttin' 12" to 18" trees, I guess it doesn't matter. To be honest with you guys... I don't know where you find the room in the stump to bore cut a 12" leaning tree.

There is a method, but many of you would laugh . It involves boaring under the face, perpendicular to the apex of the scarf to create a curf to place a wedge in the back of the stem. I've seen a guy jack a tree over feathering wedges with the method.

 

[Mitchell]

boring the back cut

This post makes me consider trying boring more actually...

If no other reason then [as it has been pointed out here] it allows for a more stable tree right up untill the final few fibers are cut when pulling over with a rope. This is an advantage I would think when falling trees residentially.
Safety wise; As far as time at the stump; the time required to bore cut [a two foot fur for example] would be under a minute [45'?] as opposed to a straight back cut.
Admitingly I rarely used to bore anything.

I am a three year residential arborist with 13 years in the bush falling. In the interest of speed, I personally never used to bore anything but really big bdh leaners. I would stay at the stump and cut the tree off as it went. That was untill I was thrown a good thirty feet from a lifting root wad! I bored most leaners after that. [Im not as cavalier as that makes me sound as that was standard practice; in small non union shows you were gone by lunch if you couldn't keep ahead of the yarding.]

Anyways I will try a few out and see what I think...
SCott

 

[booboo]

There is a method, but many of you would laugh . It involves boaring under the face, perpendicular to the apex of the scarf to create a curf to place a wedge in the back of the stem. I've seen a guy jack a tree over feathering wedges with the method.

That's what I'm talking about with the back leaners. You can take a smaller diameter tree with a pretty substantial back lean and jack it over in the opposite direction to the lean using a bore perpendicular to the face cut, through the center of the hinge, and a wedge in the kerf on the backside. It's saved me quite a bit of climbing just for the sake of putting a tag line in. Not something I'd want to use next to a house but along the edge of the woods where the goal is to not smash up decent trees that are being left, it works great.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Not something I'd want to use next to a house but along the edge of the woods where the goal is to not smash up decent trees that are being left, it works great.

If you bore in just below the scarf apex then you have a full hinge and you can use the back cut to easily double the wedges without feathering. the chunk of wood between acts as a shim or bearing.