They have winter blend where I'm at and in WV. We do lose some mileage like Joe said. I've never been in any place below -10° and had to start the diesels. The 97 I had set a week with nights below 0° and wouldn't start without being plugged in. It's the only one I've ever had not start not being plugged in.
The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!
- Thread starter twochains
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1270d
ArboristSite Guru
She probably needed a couple new glowplugs. With eight fresh glowplugs, good batteries, synthetic oil and a good glow plug relay, my 99 7.3 will pop at 35 below without a plug in. When the temps are brisk cycling the glowplugs twice before cranking seems to help some also.
Seems the biggest problem with my 90 7.3 is glow plugs, they just **** out way to fast... If I run em extra long or twice its not to bad. The other problem is I tend to use to thick of an oil so the first few cranks take every thing the poor abused batteries have to offer... then its an uphill fight.
The pan heater seems to be helping... I would fix the factory block heater, I just really don't feel like pulling the starter again for the 4th time in less than 2 years.
That and its about time I change the infection pump and infectors... well past 100k...
The pan heater seems to be helping... I would fix the factory block heater, I just really don't feel like pulling the starter again for the 4th time in less than 2 years.
That and its about time I change the infection pump and infectors... well past 100k...
1270d
ArboristSite Guru
Spend the extra dough on ford glowplugs. They last quite a bit longer
It didnt have glow plugs. It was a dodge. It probably didnt help that the fuel heater was bypassed and it had lower compression from cut pistons. All the others would start at -10 no problem
JakeG
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ah ha.... You're one of those guys. You are not alone my friend. What kind of timing were you running? 18-30*? ...or was it not a Ppump?
been getting the bosch ones, they are a little better then the delco's, but haven't gone to the dealer or anything.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
It's funny diesel 'fuel' was, at one time, pumped back into the ground as a waste product. The engine, invented almost 120 years ago. . . And yet, they are still one of the most costly to own and maintain. It's a freaking conspiracy!!
Sent from my Bic RaZor
Sent from my Bic RaZor
MFI like MFWD seems to work when you need it. Hauls well enough for 160 horsepower
Heard those Ford glowplugs were $100/ea. Seemed a little spendy, but idk.
Joe46
ArboristSite Guru
Yes, the BERU glowplugs are the bees knees for the newer 7.3. That's what everybody recommends for the newer 7.3, and they'll probably cost more than what you've paying also. Ya a lighter grade oil would probably help also. Not sure if your IDI uses the same glowplugs or not?
20-21 I can't remember for sure. The pistons had to be cut to clear the cam. It would spin the tach straight down smooth as can be. The cam would also let me build a lot of boost sitting still. A lot of fun with a double disc and 4hi.
1270d
ArboristSite Guru
Well. It took a good couple hours this morning before the low fuel pressure alarm quit. Blocked the fuel cooler with cardboard and that seemed to help.
Seem like its been quite a few years since its been consistently ten plus below before Christmas.
My bad mdavlee. Didn't know you were a dodger.
I paid 15 bucks a piece from the ford dealer for glowplugs last spring.
Seem like its been quite a few years since its been consistently ten plus below before Christmas.
My bad mdavlee. Didn't know you were a dodger.
I paid 15 bucks a piece from the ford dealer for glowplugs last spring.
I've had a couple fords. A 7.3 and 6.4. The 7.3 did start a lot better with full synthetic oil in it. I would have to cycle the glow plugs twice on it and then help it idle for about a minute before I could get out and let it warm up.
Delco 6.50, Bosch 11., factory ford ??? 800. for glow plugs seems a little steep, I'd pay 20 a piece if I knew they where going to work better.
Mdavlee... the old 6.9 I have starts better, but its got a fresh rebuild and a new pump, and one of them fancy high speed starter thingys, the 7.3 is pushing 160k with a stock type starter thats getting tired.
Mdavlee... the old 6.9 I have starts better, but its got a fresh rebuild and a new pump, and one of them fancy high speed starter thingys, the 7.3 is pushing 160k with a stock type starter thats getting tired.
1270d
ArboristSite Guru
Uh. Yeah I'd stick with what youve been using.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just put one of them mini high torqe starters on a 4-53 Detroit. I will never buy the old style again.....don't need either any more.
twochains
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do any of you guys feel that you can swing a tree better from a particular side of the tree? Also, in all honesty...what is your percentage of fails vs. success? And thirdly what face do you like to swing from..sizwheel, kerf dutchman, over under, or manipulate the hinge on a normal face?
I would greatly appreciate any responses. Thanks in advance.
I would greatly appreciate any responses. Thanks in advance.
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
1) neither, really
2) ask my fence lines
3) only one I can do is a Dutch from either conv or Humboldt.
I really look forward to how the pros answer this question. Thanks TC
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
really depends on the tree bro, they all different and I don't think any one way works for all.
far as fail vs success.........eh, 1 fail out of 100 not to bad imo. that said, I always had more trouble with little trees. under 20" seem to give me fits for some reason while 30+ seem to go almost perfect.
what seems to be givin you fits lately?
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
99%?! Ya, I'm gonna stick to my day job. I figured you boys would miss u'r lay on a turner 5-10% of the time. Strong work!
