Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Best way to put alder is look at it wrong and it's coming for you, deep faces or blocks will kill you with them. They will follow a slope for light as well.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!
- Thread starter twochains
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
You know my favorite are the alder that come off as one stump and have multiple tops or tree coming off of them you have to cut in the air 20 feet up. Cedar also do this.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Schoolmarms, i use a machine for those ,either to push em over or to stand on ,i dont do springnoards ,i am not that good lol
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
No these aren't moards these follow the land for the limbs turn into tops. Oh come on you know boards are so much fun when you have to cut your own stick.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
My least favorite thing to cut is a tree coming out of a 15 or 20 foot tall old growth stump, I cuss at the old timers every time.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I have a few good size alder i have to remove sometime ,they lean,are hollow,and when you cut into one water sprays all over your saw and makes your chain lock up ,fun ones
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Had that happen before, it sucks putting board in dead old wood and cutting without ripping the old growth stump out and taking a ride yourself.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Frank Savage
ArboristSite Operative
Holy c#ap... 12" alder, probably S-shaped from hunting the light, late May as it seems to me from the photo(?). Backleaning rotten punk is better to deal with at times. From my experience around here, alders are worst during about 6-8 weeks after first leaves emerge that year. The younger the tree and the faster the transition from winter to vegetation season, the worse. Shalow face, nips under the hinge from sides, coos, stronger saw than needed for the size with kinda race grinded chain and prayer/helluva cussing, whatever comes handy at the moment-that´s what I´ve learned.
Or use Skeans advice-he got it sorted pretty damn well, his recipe is also easier on gas bill
Just remember that "escape patch preparation" is more important this style
Also the block face-at least some parts of the year. I´ve seen "reversed chair" with it-slight lean (like 3 ft for 70´, 11" tree), taking no chances and blockfacing it to the lean-and albeit he didn´t cut up into the trunk over the top gunning cut, a crak right from the plunge cut went up some 20´...
Or use Skeans advice-he got it sorted pretty damn well, his recipe is also easier on gas bill
Just remember that "escape patch preparation" is more important this styleAlso the block face-at least some parts of the year. I´ve seen "reversed chair" with it-slight lean (like 3 ft for 70´, 11" tree), taking no chances and blockfacing it to the lean-and albeit he didn´t cut up into the trunk over the top gunning cut, a crak right from the plunge cut went up some 20´...
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
.............its a bit confusing to me that you boys on the west will cut the sides of chair prone timber instead of gutting the heart. i do realize its hard to gut a 12" tree lol. i chaired a white oak that size the other day, didn't care, it fire wood. won't have to split the first 12' but once lol.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
On super sketchy ****, I'd blow them up with a charge, before I stuck a bar in one Brian.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
It is because they are too small to gut ,and that takes longer for me ,i can face ,2 nips and a back cut in about 30 seconds or so and be on to the next one ,these alders grow in clusters like weeds ,they do not always chair ,i cut one strait from the back last weekend with no face to try to chair it ,it just tore off about an inch from the end ,a small one ,maybe 10 inches across ,the top was broke off from the wind so it did not have as much pressure as a whole tree though .Alders seem to hold a lot of water ,they are a hardwood ,that why be why they break easy ,but they also cut real easy ,easier than fir or cedar in my opinion
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
That would be more dangerous to me i would think ,i know nothing about explosives .If something is ever above my pay scale ,i get help though .
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Bet you're surrounded by guys who know how to blow stuff up.
Not that I do *cough* much *cough*
OlympicYJ
ArboristSite Guru
Yup I could see it start to go and jumped back. Might have been a little slow but was still trying to get the hell out of there as fast as I could.
As mentioned it's kind of an unstable species. I've rarely seen an alder that doesn't have some lean because as someone said they grow towards the light. Even though a deep face would leave you with less to saw through on the backside it could still chair because of the lean. Alder is spooky unpredictable. Take the video for example in my non professional fallers opinion. The first chair the first tree did; if it had been an alder it would have gone up a third of the stem (at least) break off and come sailing back. and that guy wouldn't have probably got as far as he did before all that would happen.
Saw there were more replies. I don't get on here much anymore. I've tried boring small ones and don't recommend it. Left the hinge too small compressed and the back ripped out before I could cut out. Didn't chair but it wasn't right!
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wes i have trouble with this site too, some times it won't load and some times it freezes up.
on the back ripping out, yeah, done that last year on a big one. i stick with face and back cut now, but i will gut from the face on hard leaners.
this alder sounds like a strange wood. we have some weird acting wood here to, i'd like to try some alder just to learn it. how ever, i hardly ever fall sticks that size, seems like fat sticks are easier to deal with.
on the back ripping out, yeah, done that last year on a big one. i stick with face and back cut now, but i will gut from the face on hard leaners.
this alder sounds like a strange wood. we have some weird acting wood here to, i'd like to try some alder just to learn it. how ever, i hardly ever fall sticks that size, seems like fat sticks are easier to deal with.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
that's dry alder Mike. They are a tree you always keep your eyes on well cutting even gutting the heart doesn't always mean they aren't going to chair with alder. I posted some pictures of some very mature very heavy and big alder, even with rotten hearts they'd try to chair on you if you didn't keep up with them.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
I can't imagine it splits any faster than ash or white oak. 12" tree I usually just snip off unless I really need it to go somewhere. Boxelder is soft and likes to split too. Veru unpredctable wood there too.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
And it turns white stihls all orange like a husky ,that orange stuff in the bark stains stuff good .It wears off eventually though .
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
did you cut that out with a saw? i see its much darker dry.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
that's the orange stuff that gets all over when i mill alder the boards turn orange ,but that goes away after the wood drys
