tek9tim
ArboristSite Guru
Oh yeah, back in the beginning you asked about the screw holding on the brake/starter... I've never had problems with a Stihl. Any model, any age.
The usual... Stihl 660? or Husqvarna 390?...based on intangibles
- Thread starter coho
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My bad sorry for the bad post.
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't forget...066/MS660=King of all saws!!!
coho
ArboristSite Lurker
just got pricing on the non heated handle 390...$1188
coho
ArboristSite Lurker
the "screw" that acts as the hinge on the left side of the chain brake lever in the 660....is that actually not a screw but a bolt? pictures suggest this possibility and they don't have one in stock
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Niether Me, it is actually a long shouldered 5mm torx fastener,,, never a problem with one either,,,,,
coho
ArboristSite Lurker
"it is actually a long shouldered 5mm torx fastener," -> yeah, it looked more like a bolt and/or a meatier fastening device; i have more faith in that than the philips screw i remember in the 385. It also seems to thread into metal rather than plastic.
An off topic question...until now i've never seen or heard of these new special anti-kickback chains that seem to be lower kickback compared to "regular" chains. the irony is though that a quick glance at every chain says that they meet ansi/csa low kickback standards. So i'm wondering whether some chains do in fact offer lower kickback properties than common chains? And if so...do they do this at the compromise of chip size & cutting speed? Do they carry a price premium?
An off topic question...until now i've never seen or heard of these new special anti-kickback chains that seem to be lower kickback compared to "regular" chains. the irony is though that a quick glance at every chain says that they meet ansi/csa low kickback standards. So i'm wondering whether some chains do in fact offer lower kickback properties than common chains? And if so...do they do this at the compromise of chip size & cutting speed? Do they carry a price premium?
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
I like the 660. It has been around forever and still rocks. The vibes might not be the best, but I like it!
I have never run a 390, but have spent a fair amount of time behind a 385. The 390 in my eyes is just a 1mm bigger bore 385....
I have never run a 390, but have spent a fair amount of time behind a 385. The 390 in my eyes is just a 1mm bigger bore 385....
Big Neb
ArboristSite Operative
A low kickback chain should cut the same down the length of the bar. It just offers a marginally less kickback at the tip of the bar by placing more guides between the cutters. You will notice normally it will have a couple of guides vs. one guide for the regular chain. It just has less chance of biting in at the tip and sending the bar skyward. My personal opinion is that it really doesn't matter and I can throw chips plenty fast with both types.
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
take the safety chain, tie coil it into a wad and throw it as far as possible, chisel chain is the way to go
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
Not when cutting dirty wood.....
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
the only time that i get into dirty wood is when im cutting in bottom ground and the area has flooded and left deposits on the trees. i always run chisel chain but if i was gonna switch chain for this setup i would go to a semi chisel
I just can't stand the safety chains with the bumper links on them
I just can't stand the safety chains with the bumper links on them
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
I totally agree. I run mostly square chain, but when I run into dirty wood, square chain and full round chisel are both useless. Semi chisel is the most "safety" chain I run.....
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
i haven't run semi chisel in a long time, and i have never ran square chisel, always round. but i am gonna try out some square some time. im not all about changing the chains in the woods when it gets dull. so i use round and sharpen in the woods.
coho
ArboristSite Lurker
i'll be running full chisel, round grind, full skip,
i was just curious as to whether they make a noticeable difference without any detriments...and/or if they're worth the price premiums if they carry one
i was just curious as to whether they make a noticeable difference without any detriments...and/or if they're worth the price premiums if they carry one
Big Neb
ArboristSite Operative
Full skip chain isn't considered safety chain nor do I believe they even make a safety version of it. Between regularly spaced and safety of the same type I don't think you'll notice much cutting difference. You may notice the tip doesn't grab quite as bad. Example: 33RSC(regular) vs. 33RSC3(low kickback) Both are full chisel chains.
I'll voice my opinion on saws if you haven't already decided. You can always choose the 390 and hope it is as good as you anticipate or you can choose the 660 and smile. I do like the 660 even though I have yet to add one to my arsenal and if you are already considering it, Just do it.
I'll voice my opinion on saws if you haven't already decided. You can always choose the 390 and hope it is as good as you anticipate or you can choose the 660 and smile. I do like the 660 even though I have yet to add one to my arsenal and if you are already considering it, Just do it.
flyfshrmn
ArboristSite Lurker
Stihl 066 vs. Husky 390
I haven't run the 066 but did have a Husky 385xp. I found the same problems with the Husky losing screws. You had to check it every hour of operation and I still managed to lose a couple. These saws have a larger engine than some motorcycles and they are going to vibrate a lot and loosen stuff up. But, it was a tremendous saw and I cut the hell out of a huge oak tree, 6ft. DBH, with it. I bought the saw exclusively for that project and sold it when it was done. I have a Stihl 036Pro that I use for most of my big stuff and I prefer Stihl saws over the Husky. My cutting partner has two Husky saws and they cut great but are prone to a couple of minor mechanical flaws.
The details are really important with the big saws. You have to keep your chains sharp and maintain your bars. That means filing the depth guages properly as well. The engines are powerful enough to pull dull chains or chains that are not properly sharpened and they will heat up a chain in a hurry if it's dull, or the teeth have the wrong angles, or the depth guages are not right. The instant you see the saw throwing sawdust instead of chips, or pulling off line and binding in a cut you have to get out of it and fix the problem or your chain will be toasted.
I haven't run the 066 but did have a Husky 385xp. I found the same problems with the Husky losing screws. You had to check it every hour of operation and I still managed to lose a couple. These saws have a larger engine than some motorcycles and they are going to vibrate a lot and loosen stuff up. But, it was a tremendous saw and I cut the hell out of a huge oak tree, 6ft. DBH, with it. I bought the saw exclusively for that project and sold it when it was done. I have a Stihl 036Pro that I use for most of my big stuff and I prefer Stihl saws over the Husky. My cutting partner has two Husky saws and they cut great but are prone to a couple of minor mechanical flaws.
The details are really important with the big saws. You have to keep your chains sharp and maintain your bars. That means filing the depth guages properly as well. The engines are powerful enough to pull dull chains or chains that are not properly sharpened and they will heat up a chain in a hurry if it's dull, or the teeth have the wrong angles, or the depth guages are not right. The instant you see the saw throwing sawdust instead of chips, or pulling off line and binding in a cut you have to get out of it and fix the problem or your chain will be toasted.
You do realize you trolled up a three year old thread.........
opcorn:
opcorn:grizzlybear
New Member
Safety (anti-kickback) Chain
Its a piece of crap. Never tried it on green wood, but on dry wood it clogs up the bar. You have take the bar off every 1/2 hr or so of cutting to clean the grooves out.
Its a piece of crap. Never tried it on green wood, but on dry wood it clogs up the bar. You have take the bar off every 1/2 hr or so of cutting to clean the grooves out.
