Thinwall conduit for logsplitter hydraulic suction line?

[Lab-lover]

I am putting a new pump on my logsplitter and the location of the suction inlet is going to cause a sharper bend than I feel comfortable forcing a section hose into, if I can even get it to bend like that. Can I just cut the suction line hose and install a section of 3/4" thinwall conduit to make the bend? If thinwall conduit is inadequate is there some other bendable ridged tubing I can or do I need to reposition the pump, if possible?

The hose needs to come up from the reservoir 4" and over 2" to meet the inlet nipple on the pump.

 

[brenndatomu]

Got any pics? Can you use a longer section of hose and loop it around?

 

[Ohio066]

Use a 90. they make barbed 90's in steel, my brunco has a plastic 90 in the return line.

 

[Denis Gionet]

Agreed. Use a 45 or 90, whatever works, as long as it's clamped proper and doesn't suck any air. Keep the hose as straight as you can, and make it fit with elbows as needed.

You're pulling your oil uphill to the pump ? Was it configured that way before ?

 

[kevin j]

Not sure of the coating on the inside, galvanizing may flake off, but if it good quality, then thinwall should be fine. suctin lines are usually beaded for a good seal on the suction hose, but formed thin tubing is common.
Suction hose has a spiral spring molded into the rubber to prevent collapse under vaccum, but an inch or two of any hose to couple the thin wall to the beaded tube on the pump should be fine.

 

[Zeus103363]

Other posters are right, don't use anything galvanized! On the suction hose, what ya need is called a " king comb nipple". You can get in different sizes, mill finish, or stainless. One end is threaded, the other end has been crimped so it will grip the suction hose. Screw in a short nipple, with a 3000# forged 90 or 45 degree elbow, which ever angle works best. Screw the king comb nipple in that, and your suction hose will fit the other end. Galvanized fittings has a tendency to flake off and can cause problems in your pump. I prefer stainless fittings as so you don't have to paint them. Nothing uglier than a nice piece of machinery with rusted hydraulic fittings! You can get these fittings from any hydraulic parts store.

 

[Lab-lover]

I could loop the hose if I reposition the pump, I was trying to shorten the suction line so I wouldn't have to worry about a long loop getting hung up on brush while hauling the splitter thru the woods but that might be the best way to go I would just have to make a hose hanger of sorts to support the line.

I would have to install two 90 elbows since the line has to curve up and over some but I might be able to work something out. The double bend of up and over is why I am trying to use something somewhat flexible that I can form to fit. Although now that I think more about it, maybe two 45's clamped into suction hose would work. I'll haved to play with that option.

I will also check on some stainless elbows (45's and 90's) but since everone has said to avoid galvanized pipe, would rigid or flexible 3/4" copper work if I could nipple the ends to clamp onto the hose? With flexible copper I would, of course, have to ensure there is no stress on the line which could cause it to crimp shut and starve the pump.

And finally in answer to Denis' question, yes I am drawing fluid up to the pump which seems counterintuitive to me but that is how it was originally configured.

 

[Ayatollah]

Vibration is your enemy. Thinwall is a very weak defender where vibration is concerned. Most hydraulic lines not comprised of flex lines are hard iron, and for a reason. In refrigeration, they use a woven mesh flex line up close to the compressors. I used some of this on my dump trailer line, but I'm not sure if it would stand up to the pressures of a splitter or not.
I tried to use thin wall to make a frame work of sorts for my trailer when I was hauling shelving stacks from Los Angeles to Sac. It was welded good, and still the vibration broke it in selected places. I'd reconsider thin wall

 

[Lab-lover]

Thanks Ayatollah and I agree with you that thinwall conduit is pretty fragile but I thought if I could sandwich it between hoses which would absorb the vibrations it might work. However, earlier posts have warned against using anything galvanized due to the possibliity of it flaking off and causing damage to the pump so that option is off the table. I will be checking into stainless steel 45 degree bends later today.

Thanks again to everyone for their input. This is such a great site for research.

 

[Ayatollah]

Thanks Ayatollah and I agree with you that thinwall conduit is pretty fragile but I thought if I could sandwich it between hoses which would absorb the vibrations it might work. However, earlier posts have warned against using anything galvanized due to the possibliity of it flaking off and causing damage to the pump so that option is off the table. I will be checking into stainless steel 45 degree bends later today.

Thanks again to everyone for their input. This is such a great site for research.

As far as I remember, glavanized pipe was only galvanized on the outside. Black iron pipe is a substitute though, if you're worried about the flaking issue, and I used to buy some stainless steel pipe for high pressure steam applications some years back, so if that's still available, yet another option

 

[Lab-lover]

Ayatollah I just realized you have been talking about high pressure conditions. I just wanted to clear up that I am talking about the suction side of the pump so there is very little pressure to consider and what little pressure there is, is vacuum not expansion.

 

[Ayatollah]

Ayatollah I just realized you have been talking about high pressure conditions. I just wanted to clear up that I am talking about the suction side of the pump so there is very little pressure to consider and what little pressure there is, is vacuum not expansion.

Then use the stainless steel woven mesh line. It'll hold its' shape in a bend, and provide plenty of vibration buffer.

 

[kevin j]

If you do the flex braided line, it has to be suction rated. The mesh wire holds against outward pressure and the inner tube liner seals the fluid. In a vacuum situation, the inner tube needs to resist pulling inward. In theory, no suction. In reality, cold weather and high idle pump speed is high suction conditions.

Black iron pipe fittings form the hardware store are fine for suction. Don't need the 3000 FS stuff. Pressure side, you need proper hydraulic fittings but suction side the issue is collapse of the walls, and not letting any air leaks.