Timber Management Plan
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Caryr-
A good way to tackle that laminate rot problem is to start piling brush and burning it off in small piles at various times throughout the year. Laminate often takes hold in soils ( coastal, such as yours ) that have a high saturation of water throughout the fall, winter, and spring. The re-introduction of high amounts of carbon and nitrates back into the soil will fight this. Are you in or around the Tillamook burn area?
A good way to tackle that laminate rot problem is to start piling brush and burning it off in small piles at various times throughout the year. Laminate often takes hold in soils ( coastal, such as yours ) that have a high saturation of water throughout the fall, winter, and spring. The re-introduction of high amounts of carbon and nitrates back into the soil will fight this. Are you in or around the Tillamook burn area?
Caryr- My experience comes from being a forester/small woodlands manager ( in the mid 90s ) for a county department here in Southern Oregon ( Douglas county ). Our first course of action in the initial stages of laminate rot outbreaks was to do the same as in the case of bark beetles- remove the infected trees, pile the brush, burn it, burn or remove the stumps, and plant alternate conifers such as ponderosa pine or cedar in the place of fir. In the last few years however, we have been having some success with intermittent burning- via brush piling and broadcast understory burning, especially on older sites. I worked with the park manager at the Loon Lake recreation site on B.L.M. ground near Reedsport on the same problem. Chemical treatments have been unsuccessful for the most part.
Categorically burning on any site is not really to add nutrients to the soil per se' but rather to speed up the decomposition process of the remaining fuels to reduce the amount of downed woody debris that serves as a host for bugs, fungii, and forest diseases. It depends on your site and your objectives.
One thing that a lot of modern forest biological studies neglect to mention is the impact that local industrial forest activities plays in the long term stamina of incumbent and foreign forest pests. For example- in Southern Oregon we've had a high level of fire supression since the 1880s, this coupled with the introduction of many foreign pests has led to the increase of mortality in large amounts of remaining old growth stands of timber here.
Categorically burning on any site is not really to add nutrients to the soil per se' but rather to speed up the decomposition process of the remaining fuels to reduce the amount of downed woody debris that serves as a host for bugs, fungii, and forest diseases. It depends on your site and your objectives.
One thing that a lot of modern forest biological studies neglect to mention is the impact that local industrial forest activities plays in the long term stamina of incumbent and foreign forest pests. For example- in Southern Oregon we've had a high level of fire supression since the 1880s, this coupled with the introduction of many foreign pests has led to the increase of mortality in large amounts of remaining old growth stands of timber here.
Caryr- Have you thought about trying some different species in the areas you will be replanting? I planted some Alaska yellow cedar and redwood on my property here about 7 years and have been having phenomenal results, 30" leaders average every year. My ponderosa pine is only averaging 19" on my dryer sites and my doug fir is trailing at 14". I'm about 45 minutes from the coast in a little town called "Umpqua".
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