Time to venture into milling

[blsnelling]

This thread may likely start a new addiction for me, lol. I've got a beautiful 11' long 18-20" diamter Walnut log here that I want to mill into shelf boards. There's also a nice, larger diameter hard Maple log I can get my hands on.

Basically I'm looking for advise on what to buy. The power head will be a 084. I currently have 36", 50", and 72" bars in that mount. I'll buy another if need be. So what size mill should I buy? I've been looking at the Alaskan 36" mill, but considered getting one larger. I just don't want to buy too large or too small of a mill. What would you advise?

Is there anything else I'll need to purchase besides milling chain?

Yes, I'm a complete newbie in this department. And yes, you're welcome to tell me to go use the search function, lol

 

[mtngun]

Brad, I'm glad you are getting into milling.

Bear in mind that the clamps and nose take up 4" - 6" of space on a conventional Alaskan mill, so a 36" bar with 36" mill can only cut 29" - 30" wide.

In the short run, sounds like a 36" Alaskan with your 36" bar would do the job nicely.

But, if you see bigger trees in your future, plan accordingly. You can always run a 48" mill with a 36" bar, it's just that some of the mill frame will stick out and be a bit of a nuisance.

Not sure if your 084 needs an aux oiler with a 36" bar ? An 066 benefits from an aux oiler, but an 084 may pump enough oil. In any event, you can always add an aux oiler later if you feel the need.

You'll need some sort of guide board. You'll see all kinds of guides being used on this forum. A 2x12, unistrut, ladders, I-joists, etc.. If you already have something suitable laying around, by all means use it, even if it is not perfect. You can always upgrade later.

Lots of threads on milling chain. Bailey's 3/8 milling chain is probably the most popular. Aggiewoodbutcher prefers .325" chain (semi-chisel reground to 10 degrees), claiming it is a wee bit faster. Even cross cut chain can be used for milling if you don't mind a rougher surface.

If you don't already have one, a cant hook or peavy comes in handy for milling.

Please post lots of pictures of your milling adventures.

 

[Kicker_92]

This thread may likely start a new addiction for me, lol. I've got a beautiful 11' long 18-20" diamter Walnut log here that I want to mill into shelf boards. There's also a nice, larger diameter hard Maple log I can get my hands on.

Basically I'm looking for advise on what to buy. The power head will be a 084. I currently have 36", 50", and 72" bars in that mount. I'll buy another if need be. So what size mill should I buy? I've been looking at the Alaskan 36" mill, but considered getting one larger. I just don't want to buy too large or too small of a mill. What would you advise?

Is there anything else I'll need to purchase besides milling chain?

Yes, I'm a complete newbie in this department. And yes, you're welcome to tell me to go use the search function, lol

Keep in mind that if you go with the Grandberg MKIII, the rails can be purchased seperatly. So you could start with the 36" model (around 30" of cut), and get the longer rails if you end up with a big project.

What are your plans for the 084 powerhead?

 

[Homelite]

Walnut for shelf boards? Must be a nice shelf.

 

[blsnelling]

Keep in mind that if you go with the Grandberg MKIII, the rails can be purchased seperatly. So you could start with the 36" model (around 30" of cut), and get the longer rails if you end up with a big project.

What are your plans for the 084 powerhead?

Very little. I'm going to clean up the windows in the new OEM piston, taking the lip off the bottom of the transfer intake duct, and widening the tranfers. I will not be touching the intake or exhaust ports. I significantly opened up the factory port on the muffler.

 

[blsnelling]

Walnut for shelf boards? Must be a nice shelf.

Nice saws and free wood

 

[Kicker_92]

Very little. I'm going to clean up the windows in the new OEM piston, taking the lip off the bottom of the transfer intake duct, and widening the tranfers. I will not be touching the intake or exhaust ports. I significantly opened up the factory port on the muffler.

Something that might help, when I needed a new piston for the MS880, we ended up looking at both the 088 and MS880 pistons. The newer piston has much larger windows in it already. Wish I would taken a photo, but check out both versions at your dealer if they have stock.

 

[Can8ianTimber]

Umm, wow!! Most people don't show up here with 100cc plus saws saying they might want to try this milling thing. Usually it is something like "I have a stihl 360 and I want to slab up a 40" oak, what do you recomend".

Anyways you have a great start on the average miller. I started with a 066 and I think a 36" mill. I have upsized my rails twice now and it is a fairly painless process so I would not worry about needing longer rails in the future. That way you can put your shorter rails on if you are cutting smaller logs.

You also don't have to use ripping chain. Some swear by it and some swear it makes little difference. It helps a little but if you just want to get your feet wet use your regular chain, 2x4's screwed to the log and an alaskan mill and see if you like it.

 

[BobL]

This thread may likely start a new addiction for me, lol. I've got a beautiful 11' long 18-20" diamter Walnut log here that I want to mill into shelf boards. There's also a nice, larger diameter hard Maple log I can get my hands on.

Basically I'm looking for advise on what to buy. The power head will be a 084. I currently have 36", 50", and 72" bars in that mount. I'll buy another if need be. So what size mill should I buy? I've been looking at the Alaskan 36" mill, but considered getting one larger. I just don't want to buy too large or too small of a mill. What would you advise?

Is there anything else I'll need to purchase besides milling chain?

Yes, I'm a complete newbie in this department. And yes, you're welcome to tell me to go use the search function, lol

Welcome to the dark side Brad

Have you read the milling101 sticky?

With an 084 in 20" wood I'd look at flying with a 7 or 8º cutting angle.

Oil flow on the 084 is 10 - 30 ml/min with a 50 ml/min boost which I reckon is a waste of oil because all of that extra oil just comes off at the nose.

Once you have the 36" mill its cost effective to upgrade to a longer mill buy just buying a 20' length of highway sign unistrut, and 20' length of pipe - that way you can cut these to suit exactly what mill rails you want. I have 54" and 64" rails and leave the 64" rails on even using the 42" bar unless I work in dense bush.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Nice saws and free wood

That sounds like a great combination!

You have some free wood, life is good.

And a premium native hardwood at that.

Scares me to think if someone like you gets hooked on milling instead of cutting cookies... Not that it should or would effect your cookie habit, just scares me to think of how much usable wood you could get. In fact, why not just do your saw comparisons/demos of milling a slab, kill 2 birds with one stone! (and end up with more than a cookie)

And having great wood is a plus, walnut is one of my favorites along with cherry and maple. Walnut is the most forgiving, IMO.

 

[huskyhank]

I am very happy with my 36" Alaskan running 32" and 42" bars. I can mill about 23" with the 32 bar and 33" with the 42 bar. I use the smaller bar sometimes because its much easier to handle the whole assembly by myself. Previously I used the mill with a 36" bar but when I retooled I chose 32" and 42" since I use the 32" for general sawing and the 42 bought me some width for milling.

I just bought a 60" bar and think I will buy or build another mill for it. I think anytime I use this I will make it a two man operation.

Since you already have a 36" bar I suggest a 36" mill. You'll be able to cut around 28" wide, which will cover most good sized trees. This combination is comfortable to handle by yourself. If you really like milling you may want something different later, but the best way to make that decision is to get some experience.

If your saw does not have either a real strong auto oiler or a manual oiler that you can pump a lot of oil through, I'd add one on the mill.

I'm using regular chain now. I used to use milling chain but I really don't see a reason to do so. I get smooth finishes that are very acceptable to me. It will all get planed later so the ultimate in fine chainsaw finish just doesn't matter that much. I'd pick whatever cut fastest, kept sharp longest and was readily available.

Welcome to the world of chainsaw milling!

 

[Kicker_92]

You also don't have to use ripping chain. Some swear by it and some swear it makes little difference.

In the douglas fir and soft maple we cut, I don't find it make much differance in cut speed. It does however make the chain less "grabby", and produce a smoother cut. A bit less vibration too.

We've been using 5° top plate angle for a while now, and like it. Combined with around an 8° raker angle (around 0.040"?) it cut's well in the softwood.

 

[gemniii]

This thread may likely start a new addiction for me, lol. I've got a beautiful 11' long 18-20" diamter Walnut log here that I want to mill into shelf boards. There's also a nice, larger diameter hard Maple log I can get my hands on.

It's about time you made some lumber. Learn to cut trees like a bureaucrat cuts red tape, lengthwise.

Basically I'm looking for advise on what to buy. The power head will be a 084. I currently have 36", 50", and 72" bars in that mount. I'll buy another if need be. So what size mill should I buy? I've been looking at the Alaskan 36" mill, but considered getting one larger. I just don't want to buy too large or too small of a mill. What would you advise?

Is there anything else I'll need to purchase besides milling chain?

Other things:
You need some rails or boards to "ride" the CSM on. Favorites are AL tube, Unistrut, small AL ladders.

A good chiropractor or something to raise the logs on.

I would also recommend a heavy tarp to collect the chips (don't make sawdust )

The size of the mill to start with depends on many factors:
Saw - you've got that covered
Max size of tree - If you want to cut some 48" wide planks you'll need a 48" wide mill, but as others have posted it's "upgradeable".
Other limiting factors such as maneuverability.

For instance my basement walk out is a limiting factor for me, it's clumsy with a 36" mill, Stihl 660, and 28" bar. I just bought a 42" bar and anticipate it being even worse.

 

[BobL]

For instance my basement walk out is a limiting factor for me, it's clumsy with a 36" mill, Stihl 660, and 28" bar. I just bought a 42" bar and anticipate it being even worse.

Here's how I move my BIL mill around. Stairs, narrow alleys are much less of a problem. Tight turns through doorways etc are easier if is is stood closer to upright before turning.

 

[blsnelling]

Thanks for the tips guys. Sounds like it's a 36" mill. I didn't realize I could make it longer at a later date.

I have read the sticky at the top.

I've got a 3/8 sprocket tip ready to put on the 36" bar. 7-pin, or 8-pin rim on this 084?

I'll be running full synthetic oil at 32:1.

Tuning of the saw will be rich. Do I want any 4-stocking in the cut? I assume I want it where it just barely quits 4-stroking under normal milling load.

I need some of these small wedges to keep the kerf open. Which ones are you using?

I need some better hearing protection. Suggestions? Links?

I'll have to come up with some type of rails. I have a smallish extension ladder that might work well.

 

[huskyhank]

Thanks for the tips guys. Sounds like it's a 36" mill. I didn't realize I could make it longer at a later date.

I have read the sticky at the top.

I've got a 3/8 sprocket tip ready to put on the 36" bar. 7-pin, or 8-pin rim on this 084?

I'll be running full synthetic oil at 32:1.

Tuning of the saw will be rich. Do I want any 4-stocking in the cut? I assume I want it where it just barely quits 4-stroking under normal milling load.

I need some of these small wedges to keep the kerf open. Which ones are you using?

I need some better hearing protection. Suggestions? Links?

I'll have to come up with some type of rails. I have a smallish extension ladder that might work well.

I'd start with a 7 pin and get a feel for it. Softer/smaller wood will be fine with an 8.

I run my 2100 where it just stops or almost stops 4 stroking.

Make some wedges from hardwood - flat, the width of a kerf or just slightly larger with a slight taper on one end. Photos in thread below.

Ear muffs and plugs worn together is about the ultimate.

Some use extension ladders.

I use the Malloff style end boards and 2x12 with angle iron.
First photos in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=127798
I may change some of this procedure but it works well and I already have it assembled. A 10 foot 2X12 with 1.5" angles screwed to it is not that easy to move around.

I suggest you buy a copy of "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" by Will Malloof. Its out of print, but Amazon shows used ones from time to time. There's tons of good info in this forum but the book has a lot of detail, well presented and in logical order that will speed you along.

 

[BobL]

I've got a 3/8 sprocket tip ready to put on the 36" bar. 7-pin, or 8-pin rim on this 084?

You will have to try it for yourself but I would start with an 8 on the 36" bar.

I'll be running full synthetic oil at 32:1.

Your call but I wouldn't run it that low as you'll be sitting in a constant pall of unburnt "synthetic" anyway so the less of that stuff around the better. I see the manual says 50:1 so 40:1 should be plenty. I reckon 50:1 with fully synthetic would even be safe in small wood. There are some guys here that have always run 50:1 with no probs

Tuning of the saw will be rich. Do I want any 4-stocking in the cut? I assume I want it where it just barely quits 4-stroking under normal milling load.

That's correct but in practice milling is rarely that constant. The face cuts can represent almost a zero load on a big saw through to where the bar sits at full length in wood, so maximum load.

I need some of these small wedges to keep the kerf open. Which ones are you using?

I cut my own out of 3/4" thick hardwood boards and drill a hole in them and tie some bright nylon cord around them so I can find them in the sawdust. Some operators paint theirs with fluoro colors.

I need some better hearing protection. Suggestions? Links?

I'd recommend Peltor 10HA or B, PLUS earplugs. There are only 2 or 3 other brands of earmuffs that can reduce noise as much as these Peltors can.

I'll have to come up with some type of rails. I have a smallish extension ladder that might work well.

A ladder will be a good start. With a big milling saw I like to start the saw on the rails, and also let it cool down on the rails when the cut is finished.

You might also need to look at log lifting mechanisms to lift logs off the ground. Please, please, please, don't post a pictures of yourself milling on your knees.

 

[MostShady1]

My question is, are these milled slabs gonna go into that basement somewhere?

 

[blsnelling]

My question is, are these milled slabs gonna go into that basement somewhere?

Yes. They will eventually hold my collector saws that I don't normally run. How thick do you think I should make them?

 

[MostShady1]

Yes. They will eventually hold my collector saws that I don't normally run. How thick do you think I should make them?

Don't know how you plan on setting it up, but I'd say 3" for some of those big boys you have.