To Hone, or Not to Hone?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

WoodTick007

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Oct 1, 2003
Messages
1,064
Reaction score
472
Location
Northern Michigan
I have a 038 Super that I grabbed at a flea market for $20 with a scored cylinder. Its only scored on the exhaust side of the cylinder and I was wondering if someone with experience will explain the start to finish on how to clean , what to use(emery cloth/grit? acid,how to apply and with what), type of hone, and size hone for the cylinder. The cylinder is 50mm which is just a smidgen under 2 inches.

I am sure that there are hundreds of members that could gain greatly from someone vast experience.

Thanks Again.

Greg
 
Is it scuffed above the exhaust port? If so how bad? If its just has deposited alluminum it easy to fix.
Take some muridic acid on a Q-tip and apply it liberaly to the scuffed aluminum. Make sure you dont get it on anny bare alluminum, only the Nicisil part of the cylinder. Let it sit for awhile and try to remove with a plastic putty knife or a scraper made out of a hardwood dowel. If it doesnt come off apply more acid and wait. Repeat as needed. After you get it all off throw the jug in the dishwasher and clean it(when wifes not home!). The alkalai dishwasher soap will neutralize the acide and clean it up in one step. Next buy a Brush Research Ball hone from http://www.jlindustrial.com/. The hone should be about 10% larger to the same size as the bore.The hones are over sized so one thats identical to the bore size is actually larger and will work fine. Hone the cylinder using ATF as a lube. Thats about it.
 
Use the 320, and lot's of lube.. A worn 240 is fine too. Stihl's factory finish is more like 800 but grit size and "finish" are hard to equate.

When you first get your ball hone, it's really aggressive. Either use it first on an old cylinder for several minutes or stuff it in the end of a 2 inch water pipe!
I use it in my 18v Makita on the fastest setting and move it up and down fairly quickly.
 
I got mine in the low $20's at a local tool supply house.

Use it, then sell it to another AS guy before you buy any more saws!
 
blsnelling said:
Can you find one for <$41 any where?


That is about what i paid for mine off of the various tool trucks. I only bought the common sizes though. and only bought them when i needed them. Well worth their value. 40 bucks is cheaper than a new cylinder.....
 
I just bought another this morning - the Flex-hone Silicon Carbide BRM 54mm - DBC-21818 - $20.99. A local store place called "Tool Town" but I don't think it's particularly cheaper than any other place.

I checked mine - they are 180 grit... and too coarse, but I've used them on plenty of cylinders. Definitely "flatten them" first.

I'd still go with the 320... if you have a choice Maybe use both.
 
I checked mine - they are 180 grit... and too coarse, but I've used them on plenty of cylinders. Definitely "flatten them" first.
I beieve the hones I have used were 320 or 240 grit. Although nicisil is pretty hard so a 180 shouldnt hurt anything.
 
Last edited:
Ok.....Not to sound like a "HACK"... But, what if I were to just clean the deposits with Muratic Acid and NOT hone the cylinder? I have an 044 that had a cracked ring and put new rings in without honing the cylinder.... and it appears to run fine. Thoughts?

Signed
DozerGreg
Junior Sawhack
:jester:
 
Use emory cloth in a spiral move up and down the cylinder to put some hatch marcks on it and it will probably be fine.
 
bwalker said:
If the saw is a basket case why not?

It not really a Basket Case... maybe I will try it without honing to make sure the saw does not need seals and if it runs decent I will order a flex hone. What is the most that can go wrong?
 
WoodTick007 said:
It not really a Basket Case... maybe I will try it without honing to make sure the saw does not need seals and if it runs decent I will order a flex hone. What is the most that can go wrong?
the most that can go wrong--you ever heard of murphy???!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:
 
bwalker said:
I beieve the hones I have used were 320 or 240 grit. Although nicisil is pretty hard so a 180 shouldnt hurt anything.


The 180 definately shows.... it's real hard, but not harder than the silicon carbide grit. I just like my finish to be more "factory like".
 
bwalker said:
I beieve the hones I have used were 320 or 240 grit. Although nicisil is pretty hard so a 180 shouldnt hurt anything.


The 180 definitely shows.... it's real hard, but not harder than the silicon carbide grit. I just like my finish to be more "factory like".
 
WoodTick007 said:
Ok.....Not to sound like a "HACK"... But, what if I were to just clean the deposits with Muratic Acid and NOT hone the cylinder? I have an 044 that had a cracked ring and put new rings in without honing the cylinder.... and it appears to run fine. Thoughts?

Signed
DozerGreg
Junior Sawhack
:jester:


It all depends on how clean the cylinder comes out... I've re-ringed plenty without honing, but not when the bore was smeared up.. if you don't hone, I'd still touch it up with scotch brite after acid.
 
Lakeside53 said:
It all depends on how clean the cylinder comes out... I've re-ringed plenty without honing, but not when the bore was smeared up.. if you don't hone, I'd still touch it up with scotch brite after acid.

What grade/coarse/color scotch brite?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top