took some scrap to the junk yard..made 10 dollars and then came home with this...

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uncle the i beam is offset to one side so there is no shin busting beam in the way on the other side you walk rite up to it. wich i may change due to the fact that running the lever with my left hand feels un natural to me but maybe it will be ok idk... and upon a little further inspection the connecting rod is not broken its just fine. the knock noise is coming from the magneto i took the cover off and there is a little pin that goes through a "cam lobe" that then opens and closes a set of points and it looks like it hangs up then after enough tension is built on it a very loud "snap" then the points open and close and around it goes again until the next revolution at the exact same spot does it again. and there is no spark... i have zero experience with a mag. if anyone want to give me a little lesson on how they work and what to check im all ears
the noise is from the impulse in the mag it works like you described...its basically to provide spark at low starting speed until it gets to running speed then the noise stops...
you could start with gaping the points to spec (usually somewhere around .020"), and lightly filing them so they have a flat contact area, if still no spark then replace the condenser, a reputable auto parts store (been around a long time) should have the old books to look up part numbers or could match it up...no likely with big parts stores ...heres the manual for an AENL...theres info about troubleshooting the mag along with anything else you could ever need with that engine http://www.pittauto.com/customer/piauel/pdf/Wisconsin_AEN_AENL_AENS_instr_parts.pdf
 
That thing is screaming for a Chonda harbor freight motor. I have one on my 1980s toro 724 snowblower and it rocks. $99 with the coupon. Oh yeah, you suck!
 
Does it look like this? It is a Wisconsin but I don't know the model/details on it. I can get a photo of the tag later today if you're interested.View attachment 448128 View attachment 448129

picture-008-jpg.448128


I like that. Kind of old school "Low-Rider" action
 
I like that. Kind of old school "Low-Rider" action
It's not much to look at and is not the strongest, but the price was right. It has split everything I've tried even if I had to back off and take a smaller bite or flip the round. So if the OP can get his Wisconsin going I think it's worth having. Of course I am not the one who has to find a source for any obsolete parts. :crazy2:
 
It's not much to look at and is not the strongest, but the price was right. It has split everything I've tried even if I had to back off and take a smaller bite or flip the round.
Dude, you need some lumber jack training. I'm sure what you meant to say was:
"It's earned every bit of ugly it has by splitting 30" oak rounds 4 feet long all day long in 90 degree heat and -40 cold with the engine never going above a fast idle."
 
Dude, you need some lumber jack training. I'm sure what you meant to say was:
"It's earned every bit of ugly it has by splitting 30" oak rounds 4 feet long all day long in 90 degree heat and -40 cold with the engine never going above a fast idle."
Sorry, I'll try to do better. How's this? "It was free."
 
so this is totally off topic but i have a stupid question for you guys. will a 9.00-20 tire work as a replacement for a 10.00-20 tire. more so will they fit the same rim?
 
looks motor similar to the AAH Wisconsin I have on my dads old splitter. The only difference is his still has the hand crank
 
junky i did both sides tonight. new tubes also. so once i get this load split and done ill be back on the splitter
 
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