Topping Maple Trees

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Mike, we can leave fruit production et al out but we must consider the evidence available on some species. Dr. Shigo mentioned that some of the worst pruning he had seen was in apple orchards. I also have noted the same thing. Despite bad cuts removing 60-80% of the foliage the trees survive and produce year after year. Pollarding is a 100% foliage removal on an annual or biannual basis. The trees survive for centuries. Why? In the case of the pollarded tree it adapts and develops in relationship to the consistent loss of leaf bearing wood. The orchards aren't so fortunate-I've seen orchards that were neglected for 15 years then pruned to 80% reduction 3 years running and many of the trees still survived. Besides tree age/stage of maturity species is important in proper dosing. You know that. I know that.-WHat a Siberian Elm would shrug off and seem to thrive through might kill a Birch.

If Joe Amateur removes 25% foliage on his Juvenile tree this year-and next year-and the following year the tree will probably be fine-he either will start finding no need to cut anything or the tree is growing vigorously and will be adapting to the 25% foloage loss and regeneration cycle. If Harry the Hacker whacks 25% off of a mature tree and comes back for another go next year he might do it again but on his next visit he will probably wipe the drool from his chin and mumble "Duh,uh I don't see much to cut except the dead stuff". I agree with you that proper dose varies from 0%-100% foliage removal but I think that the 25% guideline is a decent one. On vigorous young trees of MOST species it will not be lethal over the long term. On mature-over mature trees it will self regulate because there simply isn't anything to cut.

However, I also concede that some tree cutters know how to do nothing except cut. A bunch of the older city trees here have been severely reduced. Even though the trees showed little epicormic shoot growth, minimal tip elongation on the laterals that reduction was made to and a general lack of vigor the next contract crew whacked off 20%-40% of the foliage. The trees are being pruned to death. Which just shows to go you-Bureaucrats can write rules based on science like "no topping" and then fail to get things done correctly. :rolleyes:
 
Stumper's jumped to center and delivered a flurry lefts and rights, Mike's on the ropes and Tree Machine's trying to make allies after watching the carnage.

According to Tree Machines earlier posts it's OK to prune for aesthetics, symmetrical crowns, decentuate voids, those trees have gotta look good you know. Lets see what the others reckon.

Are looks important and worth wounding the tree?
 
Ekka said:
Are looks important and worth wounding the tree?
No, but good structure for long-term value justifies minor wounding. I agree with Stumper the most; great observations :Eye: , and his theory on how the 20% criterion came to be is accurate. Mike's hinkiness over the effects on old trees is valid. I wouldn't advocate 5% reduction on an old tree with no issues either. If we want to do tree care, we need to look more to the bottom half of the tree.

Much as you want a battle royale, Ekka, we're all on the same side. If you want conflict, search the archives for reduction pruning; many knockdowndragouts between Mike and this guy Guy. Ah but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now. :p
 
treeseer said:
. Ah but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now. :p
Hmm.... Dylan I think. Where is my old tape of the Byrds? I've had the chronic crummies today. Some good tunes are in order.

And yes, we are all on the same side. Argueing with Mike can be frustrating at times but then come the discussions like this one where we are all benefiting because we stop to think about what we do. :cool:
 
Ah, I was just having a bit of fun.

Would you call drop crotching the same as topping even if you were only taking out say 10- 20% on a young to semi mature?
 
Stumper said:
Hmm.... Dylan I think. Where is my old tape of the Byrds? I've had the chronic crummies today. Some good tunes are in order.
Roger McGuinn's 12-string will pick you up when you are down, no doubt. That song and Tambourine Man, pure 60's optimism, yes, to dance beneath the diamond sky with one hand waving free. As long as we have feet and hands we still can. I had a root canal yesterday; had to push back some high climbing work for later. :cry:

"Would you call drop crotching the same as topping even if you were only taking out say 10- 20% on a young to semi mature?"

O my, no. mike and the rest of us may disagree on degrees, but I think we'd agree on the principle.
I call drop crotching reduction pruning, which is not topping. It can be similarly bad for the tree if it is extreme, so it's only done in emergencies. Cass Turnbull wrote a good article on this for tcia mag in late 03--I tried to find it on the www.natlarb.com site but they only archive back to 04. Give the site a visit if you want to look for articles; they have optimized the archives.

After storms, drop crotching can be too extreme. Heading cuts are ok then, as in the below. A long answer off-topic answer, Ekka, but here it is:

SELECTIVE HEADING CUTS AFTER STORM DAMAGE

SUMMARY
Storms remove branches that trees grew and used to make and store food and other essentials. If too many branches are lost, the tree dies. So the natural approach is to take as little as possible off of damaged trees. The normal rules of pruning back to lateral branches do not apply; you should instead cut back to the first good node behind the break. Removing dead and damaged tissue is known as crown cleaning; this is always Job #1.

Sometimes to keep the tree you must leave stubs, and some people will call you a hack, or a tree-topper, or worse. When they do, you may get them off your back by asking these questions:

Have you ever reviewed the literature behind those rules you are repeating?

Why do you think it’s good to cause deeper decay, sunscald, imbalance and instability?

Mother Nature just gave this tree a big dose of pruning—should I give it an overdose?

Years after heading cuts are made, thinning cuts must be made to restore the tree’s shape. Simply remove or reduce the sprouts that don’t seem to have a future. Try not to take off more than one-third of them at a time. In the end you will be left with a tree that is balanced, solid and good-looking. If the tree is lucky, you won’t be able to tell it was ever damaged.


OUR STORY BEGINS
December 5th, 2002 was a day that will live forever in tree infamy in Raleigh, NC. An inch and one-quarter of ice put a crushing load on the area’s arboreal resources. Huge limbs dangled like Damocletian swords, grotesque ornaments greeting their owners. Contractors were told that in the course of cleaning out broken branches they had to cut all the stubs back to a substantial lateral. This rule is called “Natural Target Pruning” or “making Shigo cuts”. They were also told, following FEMA guidelines, to remove trees with 50% crown loss. It was a Catch-23: obeying the first rule would remove so much more living crown, many trees would be removed that could simply be restored.

If arborists wanted to facilitate the coexistence of people and trees, they had to reread the directions, the ANSI Pruning Standards. In ANSI A300 4.20, heading is defined as “Cutting an older branch or stem back to a stub in order to meet a defined structural objective.” 5.5.6 states that “Heading should be considered an acceptable practice in shrub or specialty pruning to reach a defined objective.” Since restoration pruning is a type of specialty pruning, the standards seem to allow for leaving stubs in trees for the defined objective of preserving them.

Also, selective heading cuts are routinely made in vine, shrub and fruit tree pruning, bonsai, pollarding and other arboriculture. So how can all selective heading cuts in a big tree be considered improper? This exceptional storm challenged the simplified rules, which seem based on a Cliff’s-Notes reading of the literature. The old ISA seal says, “Science, Research, Preservation”; good words to work by. Preserving trees is the goal; preserving branches is the way to reach that goal. This may mean cleaning the crown of damaged tissue only down to the first good node. As Dr. Alex Shigo said in A New Tree Biology, p. 458, “Topping is done internodal; proper crown reduction is done at nodes, OR at crotches. So the first separation must be nodes—good, internodes—bad.”

NODES ARE NATURAL TARGETS

Cutting to large laterals prevents natural regrowth and takes stored resources away from the tree. Restorative heading cuts are not random or predetermined, like topping cuts, but selected according to biological criteria. But what is a node, and what does it look like? In A New Tree Biology Dictionary, Dr. Shigo defines “node” as “the position on a stem or trunk that was occupied by the terminal bud and its associated buds.” Some nodes contain fully formed buds that have been carried along in the cambium as the branch grew.

These buds are connected to the vascular stream and often anchored by compacted xylem, as shown on pages 238-9 of ANTB. Due to their vascular connection, the growth from these buds can be well nourished, and due to their xylem connection it can be well anchored. This dominant growth contrasts clearly with weak growth newly formed on the surface of the bark from adventitious buds. Some botanists also define these growth points as nodes, but terminal bud locations offer a clearer target.

What do target nodes look like on the outside? A bulge just before a decrease in diameter can indicate reduced branch growth beyond a terminal bud. A cut just outside a bulge will also leave a smaller wound, and retain more symmetry and structure. Some raised areas may contain dormant buds visible to the naked eye. Some bumps and bulges may be due to pests, so the surface of the cut should be examined to ensure that is not the case. Wrinkles on branches are often the same swollen collars that once formed around the base of lateral branches. If a scar indicates that a lateral branch was shed at these locations, there may already be preformed lateral buds on the outside. They may also already contain what Gilman and Lilly called the “unique chemical barrier called the branch protection zones” in Arborist News, August and October 2002. These articles are viewable online.

DANGEROUS DROP-CROTCHING

Locating nodes without laterals may seem sketchy at first, but consider the alternative. Reducing damaged branches back to the center of the tree can increase the danger of windthrow. In The Body Language of Trees, Mattheck and Breloer caution against removing more weight from the windward, storm-damaged side of the tree. “The crown shape and the wind then combine forces to lift the pruned side of the crown, so reducing the normal stress and indeed perhaps transforming it into tensile stresses (i.e., lift!). When this happens, the effective sliding surface between the root-ball and the ground is so severely reduced that the tree blows over far more easily.”

If drop-crotching exposes the remaining branches to more stress and strain, how is the tree safer than if heading cuts were made? The damping effect of limbs, for years thickened by torque, is altered while other branches thicken under the new load. The tree is vulnerable to disintegration while new reaction wood is formed in response to the new stresses. As Dr. Karl Niklas notes in the Tree Structure and Mechanics Proceedings, “When exposed by the removal of neighboring stems, previously sheltered and mechanically reliable body parts may deform or break even under wind conditions that are ‘normal’.”

Avoiding decay is another good reason to make nodal cuts just below the storm-caused wounds. Large wounds on trunks are unlikely to close before they start cracking and become what Schwarze, Engels and Mattheck refer to in Fungal Strategies of Wood Decay in Trees as “motorways for decay-causing fungi and bacteria racing into the heart of the tree.” Our strategy must be to minimize the infection courts we create. Retaining branches that Nature topped also avoids sun injury, defined by Shigo in ANTB Dictionary as “…when trees are suddenly exposed to direct sunlight…The bark cambium is affected and the outer bark plates are flattened”. These injuries are slow to seal because the tree’s interior bark is very thin, and the sun dries the tissue at the edge. Big pruning wounds and sun-damaged bark often never seal over; trees rot and die before their time.

Restore or remove? Where to make the cuts? It depends on:
 Species- good sprouters and good compartmentalizers
 Age and vigor of tree, which affects sprouting potential and wound closure
 Size of wound – smaller wounds = faster closure
 Available laterals or other obvious nodes with sound wood
 The need to retain a central leader and weight balance
 
Part 2

THE TREE’S RESPONSE

Retaining stems and scaffolds by making heading cuts can minimize sprouting by leaving, much higher in the tree, a smaller surface from which they will arise. Cutting deeper to a lateral may result in the attempted formation of more leaders growing more vigorously from a larger wound. The greater the dose of pruning, the greater the shift in the auxin/cytokinin balance. A part of the cytokinin effect in relieving apical dominance when applied to the bud may be the stimulation of vascular development connecting the lateral with the main vascular system. In The Formation and Development of Dormant Buds in Sugar Maple, Church and Goodman observed that "Epicormic sprouting below the live crown increased as additional amounts of the woody crown were removed...”

When storms upset the balance between roots and canopy, the tree responds by sprouting to restore the balance. The more that is removed from the tree, the greater the imbalance and the reaction. At some point there will no longer be enough photosynthesis and the tree will decline. In The Practice of Silviculture, Smith notes that “Diameter growth may suffer if the live crown ratio…is reduced to 40 percent or less. Reduction in diameter growth slows wound closure.”

Aftercare is often very easy but it is important to communicate to all stakeholders that the restoration process requires additional work to complete. The dominant sprouts can be trained to become the new branches. On mature oaks, every three to five years seems about right. During each visit we prune out:
 Branch sections that have failed to sprout well.
 Branch sections with rapidly advancing decay.
 Sprouts that are crowded together and could develop included bark.
 Sprouts that are not forming a buttress.
 Suppressed sprouts that are declining or dead.

ON THEY GROW!

Some branches that were headed back in 1996 just got their second thinning. They now have three strongly attached, natural-looking branch ends to carry on the growth of the tree. What looked like ugly stubs at first grew into attractive, safe and symmetrical portions of our valuable tree canopy. Some observers initially object to the sight of reduced branches because they are reminded of topping cuts. It may be time for the anti-topping passion to cool a little, so we can consider selective heading cuts without worrying about them looking like topping cuts.

Canopy conservation is the ultimate reason for minimizing crown losses. When nature radically removes portions of our tree canopy, it’s up to the arborist to save what’s left. Trees are dynamic systems. The more of the tree we conserve, the more present and future benefits such as clean air and water we will conserve. As measured by American Forests’ CityGreen software, our urban tree canopy delivers high value that should not be removed without a very good reason. One mature willow oak can recycle over two hundred gallons of water per day. Selective heading cuts on damaged trees benefits the tree, the tree owner and the community.

So think about specifications that require enlarging the holes in damaged tree canopies and risking imbalance, decay, sunscald, and anchorage loss. A “compassionate conservative” approach calls for the arborist to aim for natural targets, so the tree owner conserves assets. For the cost of three pruning jobs, the expense of removal and replacement can be avoided. So if air masses collide and crush your canopy, you can guide your trees’ restoration by selectively heading for better form.


If you have any experiences related to selective heading cuts, I’d love to hear about them.
Guy Meilleur, Climbing and Consulting Arborist
[email protected]
PO Box 1287, Apex NC 27502
 
I think the principles apply to most every tree. Much data has been collected on responses by sugar and red maples and several oak species, and anecdotal observations of others agree.
 
I would advise against topping, but that has already been stated above. Unless thereis a pressing safety concern don't do it.
 
Treeseer

I was looking for nodes on this long straight leader on a euc we did today and I think I need to find an optometrist ... I couldn't see jack!

Got any pics of these nodes we can lop back to in cases of emergencies? And perhaps some angles of the cut too?

Oh by the way, we are talking about nodes on leaders etc (not branch twigs), you know, top get snapped out in a storm scenario.

Thanks
 
Ekka said:
Tree Machine comes out swinging with a potent flurry of common sense and innate concern for all trees, riding on the shoulders of his ally, treeseer
treeseer said:
good structure for long-term value justifies minor wounding.
This one sentence is the foundation of all my pruning.

One of my favorite lines is "This tree is doing just fine. It doesn't need any help from the treeguy" However, if I see overextended reaches, I'm going to recommend tip pruning, never topping. If I see overly dense areas, I'm going to recommend thinning that zone. If I see a unilateral crown, I'll be reducing the entire overgrown side evenly next Winter.

A little exercise I do with clients, goes someting like this: Ok, let's look at what we've got now. Now, in our mind's eye, let's extrapolate the tree's growth 20 years. Left unchecked, what will we be seeing in 20 years?

This is easy to do because a tree is pretty much going to continue the trends it already has established; if an area is overextended, in 20 years it's going to be REALLY overextended, a dense zone now will become a really dense zone in the future.

Yes, I prune for looks, but to me, looks and good structure for long-term value are essentially one-in-the-same.
 
Tree Machine said:
Yes, I prune for looks, but to me, looks and good structure for long-term value are essentially one-in-the-same.

Maybe the dense area is the healthier area and that's the way it's supposed to be so infact your wounding the healthier part of the tree to match the unhealtheir part.

Maybe the same with the uneven crown, looks can be deceiving, what if the unhealthier side was due to some drainage or root problems pertaining to that side of the tree? What if that less dense side of the tree was due to herbicide drift or sea spray or compaction etc?

It's not always that poor looks is poor structure, it can be less dense but sound.

Anyway, have you (Treeseer's buddy) got any pics of these nodes he's on about?
 
Stumper said:
Ekka, Look for kinks and fat spots in the limb.
Right, these are signs of the locations where the terminal bud was set, which is hte definition of a node. (There's more on this in the tci archives; www.natlarb.com, jim scarlata's article on it was in aug 2004). It's harder to see them in eucs, but they are best sensed by touch :blob5: in these species that are hard to see. Beeches are like that here.

O and Ekka, it's me that's standing on TM's shoulders; he'a a bigger guy.
And he and I have chat/argued some issues; search NEWTS and wound excavation if you want. We're all islands here; some separated by narrower isthmuses than others. :p
nOt sure that makes sense; I just wanted to say isthmuses!
 
Psst..... Guy.....Isthmuses are narrow land connections. A narrow separation betwixt islands is a strait. :angel:
 
Stumper said:
Psst..... Guy.....Isthmuses are narrow land connections. A narrow separation betwixt islands is a strait. :angel:
Ok then, we're all seas, and...

Or we're all islands, and Mark Knopfler's band gets in our way sometimes. :rolleyes:
 
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