Tree Felling Question

[RyanNJ]

Over the weekend i was felling some trees and a few i needed to fell opposite of the direction of the lean due to the house and other structures. I was able to use some tow straps and ratchets to get them to fall the correct way but if i encounter this in the future what is the best method to get them to fall in the desired direction.

I will admit that i was not prepared since i did not have wedges but i will be ordering them, what size works the best?

also once the tree is on the ground is there a good method to chunking it so that the log does not pinch back down on the bar?

I am trying to learn from this experience and improve my tree abilities.

 

[Mike-M]

I use ropes and truck(s) for that. Wedges will only counter the lean up to a few degrees.

 

[RyanNJ]

I use ropes and truck(s) for that. Wedges will only counter the lean up to a few degrees.

is there a good type of rope to use? i ended up using 50' of tow strap and 2 10k ratchets to pull it over the direction that i wanted it to fall

 

[RandyMac]

I use ropes and truck(s) for that. Wedges will only counter the lean up to a few degrees.

Bull####!

 

[Limbrat]

I will admit that i was not prepared since i did not have wedges but i will be ordering them, what size works the best?

also once the tree is on the ground is there a good method to chunking it so that the log does not pinch back down on the bar?
[/QUOTE]

Those same wedges will keep your bar from pinching on felled wood.

 

[sgreanbeans]

If you have to use a truck to rip it over, then your doing it wrong. If you have to use wedges to make it go, your doing it wrong. If you have to use those things to lay something over, then you shouldn't be doing it. Proper notching, reading the wood and understanding what you are looking at is key. Go watch a pro, see how he does it, as every tree is different. They are all conditional. Read up on holding wood. A regular hand line is fine, you shouldn't need anything bigger. If you do it right, you can cut your notch and your back cut all the way to 10%, the tree should stay, unless it is a big leaner or has a huge amount of weight to one side, but if it is close to balanced, it will stay. If it starts to go before you get there, stay there and finish the cut. Lots of guys bail at the first sign of movement, then they leave holding wood thick to one side and the tree turns to that side as its going. Bad things happen then if you don't commit. If ya do it right, then with a tag line, you should be able to pull it over (by hand) with ease. There is much more too it than a saw and a truck. It wouldn't hurt to go stay at a Holiday Inn Express either. I use sticks to keep the cut open when cutting up a log, I don't want to "wedge it" to keep it open, that puts unneeded tension on the wood as you cut it. Just find ya a stick that is the same size a the cut and shove it in, keeps the bar going thru with ease, keeps the cut open so the bar wont pinch and ya wont nick a chain if you have metal wedges. I never try and cut all the way thru a log on the ground, go about 80% then roll it. Keeps that chain clean and sharp.

 

[Carburetorless]

We're still waiting for SherrillTree to start selling "Tree Felling Sticks".

 

[TheJollyLogger]

If you have to use a truck to rip it over, then your doing it wrong. If you have to use wedges to make it go, your doing it wrong. If you have to use those things to lay something over, then you shouldn't be doing it. Proper notching, reading the wood and understanding what you are looking at is key. Go watch a pro, see how he does it, as every tree is different. They are all conditional. Read up on holding wood. A regular hand line is fine, you shouldn't need anything bigger. If you do it right, you can cut your notch and your back cut all the way to 10%, the tree should stay, unless it is a big leaner or has a huge amount of weight to one side, but if it is close to balanced, it will stay. If it starts to go before you get there, stay there and finish the cut. Lots of guys bail at the first sign of movement, then they leave holding wood thick to one side and the tree turns to that side as its going. Bad things happen then if you don't commit. If ya do it right, then with a tag line, you should be able to pull it over (by hand) with ease. There is much more too it than a saw and a truck. It wouldn't hurt to go stay at a Holiday Inn Express either. I use sticks to keep the cut open when cutting up a log, I don't want to "wedge it" to keep it open, that puts unneeded tension on the wood as you cut it. Just find ya a stick that is the same size a the cut and shove it in, keeps the bar going thru with ease, keeps the cut open so the bar wont pinch and ya wont nick a chain if you have metal wedges. I never try and cut all the way thru a log on the ground, go about 80% then roll it. Keeps that chain clean and sharp.

Nothing wrong with wedges, or using a truck for that matter. Whatever method is used, the goal is the same: to change the balance of the tree to allow gravity to work for you rather than against you. The most important thing to learn is what exactly is happening at the cut. Aiming your notch, matching your cuts, and understanding how the hinge functions is key to felling accurately and safely.

Understanding that all wood is either in a state of compression or tension will help you both with felling ajd bucking and limbing. Just remember that a lot of times a tree is at its most dangerous once it's on the ground. Limbs are under tension, the trunk can roll if the wrong limb is cut, etc. There is always a temptation to uust wade in and start whacking away at it. Read the tree, take your time, and keep your footing clear! I don't know how many times I've seen a noobie stumbling and tripping around, trying to limb the whole tree at once. Cut a few, clear a few.
Good luck and stay safe, Jeff

 

[RyanNJ]

the tree was top heavy in the direction opposite direction of the intended fall direction

 

[Limbrat]

the tree was top heavy in the direction opposite direction of the intended fall direction

You got my head spinning on that one!

 

[woodchuck357]

Seems a clear description to me

the tree was top heavy in the direction opposite direction of the intended fall direction

Depending on the size and kind of the tree and the amount of lean, I use a rope or cable. Often ran thru a snatch block fixed to an anchor point to keep the pulling vehicle on the ground. Rope is usually one inch nylon, cable may be as small as 3/8 or as large as 3/4 but most often 1/2 inch.

On little stuff hand pulling may work and sometimes a come-a-long will provide enough pull. Always use a heavier pull vehicle than you need.

An open notch(90 degrees) is needed with extreme leaners to keep the tree in control all the way down. Check this out backleaners - YouTube

 

[TheJollyLogger]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is pull height, or how high the rope is set. 2/3 of tree height is what I consider bare minimum, and higher is better, depending on the situation. Is the tree alive or dead? What species? How much lean? How big? It's an equation with about twenty variables. I have pulled over trees guys said couldn't be done, but that was the end result of thousands of drops. It's kind of one of those things that there is no substitute for experience. Knowing what you can and can't do is unfortunately sometimes a painful process.

 

[woodchuck357]

Higher is better, if the tie in point is strong enough to hold the weight of the tree. Communication with puller is also necessary, I like hands free two way ear muff type radios. Some times puller is out of sight of cutter.

 

[ariley]

If you want to learn more about tree falling, you should pick up the bible..."PROFESSIONAL TIMBER FALLING A Procedural Approach" by D. Douglas Dent.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Callin that spam, not that it isn't a good book.

 

[B Harrison]

I am so surprised at how gentle this is, op didn't have the right equipment and doesn't know where to just go pick it up. He didn't know to drop a 5" wedge into a cut to keep it from binding, and also was using this lack of experience to cut trees near a house. And no one had torn him one? You guys are getting soft.


OP good luck and to answer your question a couple 5" wedges and a double taper 10" will be a good starting point, put a 5 in your back pocket and keep it there when cutting, you might need it at any time and then its there. A 2-5 pound hammer or ax is what you will drive them with when using as felling wedges or just to prevent a back lean.

I am no pro at felling and I can work out almost a 10% lean off vertical with wedges on a well balanced tree.
To clarify that would be a 81 degree tree, I still would have a rope in the tree and some kind of assisted pulling device, never just a truck maybe a come along or block......you get the point.

I suppose if a tree was leaning more than 5% or unbalanced (first issue to deal with) and close to a house (inside of 5') I might also think about taking it down in chunks from the top. Dropping a stem isn't as cool sounding as the whole tree, but when a home or important structure is involved its the safe way. Also taking a tree down from the top is easier clean up than just dropping that sucka and then sawing it up on the ground. The property owners yard doesn't suffer near as much damage.

 

[RyanNJ]

I am so surprised at how gentle this is, op didn't have the right equipment and doesn't know where to just go pick it up. He didn't know to drop a 5" wedge into a cut to keep it from binding, and also was using this lack of experience to cut trees near a house. And no one had torn him one? You guys are getting soft.


OP good luck and to answer your question a couple 5" wedges and a double taper 10" will be a good starting point, put a 5 in your back pocket and keep it there when cutting, you might need it at any time and then its there. A 2-5 pound hammer or ax is what you will drive them with when using as felling wedges or just to prevent a back lean.

I am no pro at felling and I can work out almost a 10% lean off vertical with wedges on a well balanced tree.
To clarify that would be a 81 degree tree, I still would have a rope in the tree and some kind of assisted pulling device, never just a truck maybe a come along or block......you get the point.

I suppose if a tree was leaning more than 5% or unbalanced (first issue to deal with) and close to a house (inside of 5') I might also think about taking it down in chunks from the top. Dropping a stem isn't as cool sounding as the whole tree, but when a home or important structure is involved its the safe way. Also taking a tree down from the top is easier clean up than just dropping that sucka and then sawing it up on the ground. The property owners yard doesn't suffer near as much damage.

The tree was top heavy in the direction opposite of the fall direction. I am going to look into getting a snatch block. I know that i was unprepared and i want to use this as a learning experience

 

[miko0618]

I use plastic felling wedges for anything that has a saw in it. as for bucking the logs, I will cut from the top center and roll the bar til its just past vertical. basically cut one side. this will cut out the bottom. then go back to the top and cut down through. if you see the cut closing in any direction, put a wedge in. felling leaning trees by pulling them over is best with multiple guy lines. one at a side angle to keep the tree from falling sideways towards a structure should the hinge fail. and to say any tree can be felled in any direction without wedges or being pulled is bullsh#t! I've got some trees for this magical feller to fall.

 

[StrataTree]

Hey RyanNJ

It must be your luck, these guys have gone easy on you. I've seen these piranhas just tear the meat from bone from some of these posters!!! Pay attention to what they're tellin ya! Do your homework! It ain't as easy as people think, that's for sure! You've done yourself a favor by posting your question here, you can learn a lot from the experience of others. We drop a lot of trees in tight situations and every time it doesn't go exactly as planned we talk about it right away, what happened?, why?, what can we take away from this...? Communication between cutter and rope/winch guy is crucial! We use hand signals and it helps when you are used to working with certain people...if cutter is out of sight we relay signals with a third guy and just slow down a bit. Blocks, arborist rigging ropes, winches, wedges, push sticks, throw bags, etc., all important tools in a day in the life of a tree guy...learn your knots!!!

 

[woodchuck357]

It isn't that he is beeing handled gently

it's that, for the most part, the responders-(so far)-want to help, not ridicule. Give 'em time those that do will show up!