Tree Spacing

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mtate

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I'm going to plant an October Glory maple in line next to another. The spread of these trees is supposedly 30ft, so 15ft from center in any direction. Last advice was it is OK to plant another tree 15ft on center from the other. Question is, if I do this, am I allowing for the 15ft spread on center from the new one? I hate to be so technical, but I'm tired of making mistakes!
Thank you!
 
15 ft on center will cause the trees to grow togethersonner then it sounds you would want.

30 ft spread means on average the mature dripline is 15 ft out from the trunk. so two trees that you want to have a full crown on each should have a minimum of 30ft on center spacing.

If you don't mind them growning together, then 15 ft is not a bad thing.

A few things to be concerned about with Acer rubrum (red maple)
  1. drought stresses easily
  2. tends to yellow in higher pH soils, wants acid soils
  3. can be a very fast grower, may need early proffesional pruning to keep reduce failure from poor branch unions
    [/list=1]
 
I'm pretty sure the soil here in Putnam county is fairly acid enough, but in any event, the trees are here, so nothing much I can do I guess. What does frost cracking look like? Can I prevent it?
Thanks.
 
Good question. Basically there is a temperature differance from a very cold night to a bright sunny winter day. That affects the south side of thin bark trees, the bark then splits.

Here are a few photos to look at:
http://www.treehelp.com/howto/howto-care-for-trees-in-winter.asp

http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/TRA/PLANTS/frostcrk.html

http://plantsciences.montana.edu/horticulture/HighAltitudeLandscapes/sunscald_of_deciduous_trees.htm

Old timers use to paint the tree trunk white in the fall to reflect the sun in winter. You can use a plastic spiral trunk wrap just during the colder part of the winter.
 
Studies by Dr. Clause Mattheck show that most of these cracks are from shear forces applied to the tree during bending events which cause the wood to fail along the axis of the grain. This is the weakest part of the wood structure.

Faster growing trees are more apt to get cracks along the trunk then slower ones, and the higher the first branch the more likely you are to get them.

We usualy find them originating frm between 2 roots. the flow of energy in the bend is tension on one side and compression on the other, but when it goes down inot the roots the two forces invert just above roots causeing a shear event.

To get a better understaznding you can order a book from the ISA called "Stupsi explains trees."
 
I planted a couple of Maples just like them. Mine are about 14' apart.

Why? Only because I do what I want.

They are planted to block the sun from shining on my vehicle from about 2pm and later.

I want the shade where I need it in 2 years.

We will probably build a carport in 15 years. So if the trees need to come down in 20 to 40 years, no big deal.

They are still far apart that they can be trained decade, after decade, after decade.

Sometimes we plant for trees to keep. Other times we use them as "green tools" following the concept of "trees, our renewable resource."

Trees need to be evaluated from at least 2 aspects:

1. Trees to keep.

2. Trees that serve a purpose for a predetermined time:
a. screening
b. firewood
c. shade
d. material for crafts and woodworking
e. lumber
f. grown to die - nesting for certain animals
g. for research

Mario Vaden
Designer / Arborist
M.D. Vaden Trees & Landscapes
Beaverton, Oregon

:blob2:
 
One of my favorite screening plants is Basswood. I recomend people use the natively growing trees and coppice them on a schedule so they do not get too big and you can keep a lot of small stemd, large leaved trees in a narrow space.

do the coppice pruning in the doarmant season to ensure high vitality in the basal regeneration in the following year.

This works well with Populus sp. for some reason too.
 

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