OK
Sorry I got tiresome above.
If I'm climbing the tree again after limbing it and coming down, I would probably toss a throw line to rig a static line over a few limbs and then tied to the base, and climb it with a set of ascenders; once up, I would loop my second line (lifeline) over three stubs or limbs spaced around the trunk and tie in with my split tail and Blake's hitch. Alternatively, I could run my climb line through a biner on the static line and rig it at the same time; once a loop of the static line is tied off with the biner (and your life line) just below the TIP, you are in business. The biner acts as a "pulley" so that you can walk up the tree assisted by your lanyards, shortening your life line as you ascend. I've done it either way.
Once at the TIP, top your tree. Obviously, if the best place to top the tree is lower than your TIP, you have to move it; you can rig a false crotch as a TIP if there are no limbs or stubs. If it is above, I usually work off my lanyards with the life line rigged on the tree below me. However, although this is nice as a third back-up, there is the risk that the top could snag it and give you an unpleasant jerk. You might want be off the lifeline and tie it to the tree out of the way. Using two lanyards, one just below the cut gives you the most stability while standing on your hooks. I usually cut just above waist level. Th other lanyard is lower down (and a little slack): it is your back-up in case you flip the top one over the stub after topping, or cut it accidentally.
You have to decide on the optimal place to top the tree. Once there, your personal rigging has to be both out of the way, give you stability and support, and arranged for a quick get away.
If you are lowering the top (and you might want to even if you don't think that is absolutely necessary -- good practice and a greater margin of safety). Three key items: have your ground guy let the piece run so as not to shock load the gear and give you a ride; second, make sure your pulley is tied on with minimal distance between it and the tie in to the wood --- this reduces energy put into the lowering system; third, make sure no ropes are crossed or pulleys fouled. I had a top free fall because the lowering line managed to tie -itself off by looping around the pulley, and the shock load of a 30 ft. top (which had about 6 ft. between the pulley and tie in point -- a bit much) snapped the rigging rope holding the pulley to the tree; I also had to through .
Another way to rig it is with just a tag line (1/2 to 2/3 up) -- I would do this if there is a target within reach; even if you are sure you have it handled without it, it takes little time to set. I put a small top on the ornate balcony of a B&B once, because I couldn't pull the top over against the lean; it was only 4 in. thick, but at 25 or 30 ft. tall, I didn't have the leverage grabbing it 3 ft. above the cut.
That's about all I can think of.