Troubles with 268XP

[Cliff R]

My 268XP has been giving me fits lately. It started out just stalling on occassion, then progressed to stalling almost every single time I come out of a cut and let it idle.

It goes lean for a few seconds, then acts rich, then stalls out. I can set the L screw anyplace from rich to lean and it still does the same thing.

In the past few months, I've replaced the fuel line, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the gaskets on both sides of the intake, removed the tank, replaced all 6 AV mounts, cleaned it out, checked the vent, and cleaned the fuel filter.

The other problem it has is WAY too hard to pull, it really needs a compression release.

Anyhow, I'm suspecting at this point that it needs cranks seals. Our local Husqvarna dealer is Amish, and he's hardly ever at his shop, and months behind with his workload.

I've never put seals in this model, it is something pretty easy to do or should I send it out?

I'm actually just about ready to sell the saw, and get a newer 372XP with a compression release! Anyone interested in a really nice 268XP needed some TLC?......Cliff

 

[HiOctane]

Seals are pretty easy to install ,the worst part is removing them if you never done this.You have to be careful when you are prying them out to not damage the case around the seal.The clutch side one ask for a bit of attention if you dont have the driver guide because the lip can tourn out and the spring inside the seal can fall.So use a tiny screwdriver or else to "lift" the the lips when you go over the larger part of the crank.268 are not really hard to pull usually.Check if the starting pulley is not kinda opened and letting the cord to"double" side by side between the two parts of the pulley.

 

[thomas72]

When you had the saw a part did you check the plastic intake manifold for cracks? Other than that you named everything I can think to look at besides crank seals. I would pressure test the saw and just see where it is leaking.

 

[Cliff R]

Thanks for the help. I've had the oiler off of this series of saw before, so figured the chain side seal wouldn't be too difficult. I've never messed with the flywheel side, so we'll be careful not to damage the case.

The starter rope pulley does allow the rope to wrap on itself on occassion, it's on the list of things to replace. Even when it doesn't bind up, this saw is the hardest cranking saw I've ever seen, the compression is really high, especially when it's fully warmed up.

This saw served me for quite a few years without a single problem, now it's got nothing but problems, mostly just little stuff till this one. I just hate getting beat up by these things. Just about ready to list it in the Trading Post and get a 372XP while they still make them!......Cliff

 

[HiOctane]

Hard to pull could be another thing.Crankcase gasket is leaking and oil is transfering in the crankcase.Does she smokes a lot ?

 

[Cliff R]

No smoke, runs as strong or stronger than ever, just changes speed and dies out at idle occassionally, which is starting to be a more consistant problem.

I've done everything related to this problem aside from replacing the cranks seals, replacing the P/C gasket, or splitting the case.

Yesterday I removed the carburetor at least 5 times trying slightly different needle height(s), ran exactly the same no matter where I set it. I made new gaskets for the intake and carb while I was there, no difference.

Pretty frustrated at this point, it's the first Husqvarna I've owned that needed anything this extensive worked on. Usually it's just a kit, fuel line, or both and we're back up and running for another decade!.......Cliff

 

[HiOctane]

just changes speed and dies out at idle occassionally, which is starting to be a more consistant problem.

Cliff

Looks much like a leak somewhere.Put the pressure on ,if you dont have the pressure kit,then replace seals.Be sure your gaskets are prperly installed and your intake flange is not cracked.

 

[Cliff R]

Intake and flange are fine, fuel line new, carb's been apart at least 6 times now, I even cracked the gas cap and it makes no difference at all.

I tested it again, and noticed that if the saw is tipped right or left, it immediately changes speed at idle and leans up and tries to die out. The intermitent problem is now a full time problem, but does NOT show itself until the saw is fully warmed up (this may be an indicator of something with the seals, not sure?)

Right after the last running session I pulled the pump, and the flywheel to access the seals. This took less than 5 minutes, but I did not remove either seal yet.

The flywheel side seal is recessed pretty far below flush, and I'm not sure how easy it is to get out without damaging the case? The oil pump side seal is a minutes work, and I'll put a new "O" ring on while I'm there.

I'm thinking of carrying the case over to our local dealer (Amish guy, skill level seems decent), to see if he has a tool to R & R the seal on the flywheel side. I hope so, and hope I don't have to leave it with him, he's months behind. I really don't have any other options, no dealer that close to here, at least that I know about?......Cliff

 

[Cliff R]

Update. I went to the local Husqvarna dealer today and he had all the parts I needed, which really surprised me. Cost another $52, but cripe, I've already spent 3 times that on the saw in the past couple of months, too late to turn back now!

I picked up two crank seals, "O" ring for the oil pump to case, gaskets for both sides of the intake, vent for the gas tank, starter rope, new starter rope guide, or whatever you call the plastic part that split?

Anyhow, I was going to get the dealer to install the crank seal on flywheel side, he said he just uses a screwdriver to pry it out and a deep well socket to drive it in. Figured I could do that, so I took it home and removed the seal myself. Here's a neat trick, and it was much easier and less potential to damage the case than prying out the old seal.

I took a small drill bit and very carefully put a tiny hole in the metal portion of the old seal. Using a 3" long drywall screw, it tightened it into the hole, and used a pair of wire cutters pivoting across the end of the crank and grabbing the screw threads, and pulled the seal out effortlessly. This posed no risk whatsoever to scratching the case where the seal rides, or the crankshaft seal surface.

The saw fired right up, and no more stalling out or going lean at idle, or when you tip the saw over. It ran flawlessly at any angle or position, and idled for at least 20 minutes, never faltered once......Cliff