I do believe it came up today at some point!!!!
Troubleshooting no spark
- Thread starter coveredinsap
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BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
clearance said:
He didn't put it there. The mods thought it would be a nice touch.
carvinmark
Addicted to ArboristSite
HAHABlueRidgeMark said:He didn't put it there. The mods thought it would be a nice touch.
opcorn: :jester: :jester:
coveredinsap
Addicted to ArboristSite
THALL10326 said:
Great tip Thall...the screwdriver behind the flywheel did the trick...although it was harder than hell to get off. The back of the flywheel is fully shrouded, so there's no place to get behind the flywheel with the screwdriver except just barely in the lower right corner by the sparkplug wire opening, and it was stubborn as a mule to get off. Thank god for penetrating oil. It worked though!
Allright. Here's what I've got now:
Points will be under this cover....
If the contacts are burnt you might be able to file them..Your point's might look different..post a picture..
coveredinsap
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK, thanks....I'll go after the points next. Here's a question...as long as I'm this far into it, how hard is it to replace that old spark plug wire with with a new one?
This is just for reference..Had to make it single cylinder..
THALL10326
The Champ
coveredinsap said:
Ok Sap it looks like you got most of it done. Open that cover to expose the points. More than likely they will look corroded and white. Grab your wife's finger nail file and file the corrosion away. Just slip it between the point contacts and start cleaning those points up. Won't take alot, just enough to get them looking clean so they make good contact.
As for the spark plug wire I'm not so sure on that saw. Some coil wires are imbedded into the coil itself, some are screwed in by merely twisting the wire into the coil. If your intent on having a go at it that coil has to come out.
BTW that oil you used to get the flywheel off with. That was a good idea on your part but make durn sure there is no oil of any kind on the crank or the flywheel when you put it back on. Oil will compress in the fit creating enourmous pressure on the flywheel itself. It has been the cause of flywheels blowing apart at high Rpms so make sure you clean out the flywheel hole of all oil as well as the crank end. Easiest way to do it is just shoot some starting fuild on both and wipe them clean and dry. Starting fluid is the best grease and oil remover around. Keep us posted on the progress on that old Remmington..............
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
coveredinsap said:
Shouldn't be difficult, and it's a very good idea.
103scooter
ArboristSite Guru
THALL10326 said:
Brake Kleen is another product that works real well for removing Oil and Grease
THALL10326
The Champ
103scooter said:
Yup, thats a good choice too.
103scooter
ArboristSite Guru
Never thought of trying starting fluid. Will keep that in mind. Only thing that sort of scares me about using that is it might put one to sleep, or if smoking, or open flame, it might remove your eyebrows, facial hair, nose hairs, etc.
THALL10326
The Champ
103scooter said:
Is mighty flameable but works great. I like the smell of it, gets me kinda high,lol
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use it to seat the beads of tractor tires on the rim.
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coveredinsap
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK, cover off....here's a shot of the points.
The contact edge looks clean and shiny, (hard to see in this shot) but to my untrained eye....rather worn down.
By the way, the cover (removed) had a inside plastic lining, and the whole works fit over a metal sleeve or bushing (also removed). Are you saying that the sleeve/bushing should also be clean of all lubrication, as well as the shaft, before being put back together.....i.e. there should be no grease between shaft/bushing? Because that sort of goes against my nature
The contact edge looks clean and shiny, (hard to see in this shot) but to my untrained eye....rather worn down.
By the way, the cover (removed) had a inside plastic lining, and the whole works fit over a metal sleeve or bushing (also removed). Are you saying that the sleeve/bushing should also be clean of all lubrication, as well as the shaft, before being put back together.....i.e. there should be no grease between shaft/bushing? Because that sort of goes against my nature
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THALL10326
The Champ
coveredinsap said:OK, cover off....here's a shot of the points.
The contact edge looks clean and shiny, (hard to see in this shot) but to my untrained eye....rather worn down.
By the way, the cover (removed) had a inside plastic lining, and the whole works fit over a metal sleeve or bushing (also removed). Are you saying that the sleeve/bushing should also be clean of all lubrication, as well as the shaft, before being put back together.....i.e. there should be no grease between shaft/bushing? Because that sort of goes against my nature
Those points look burnt, especailly the upper contact in the pic. I see a small pit on the edge of the top contact. Open the points and slip a small file, finger nail file works just fine, in between the contacts and give em a few strokes to clean those points up. As you file away the burnt materail the gap on the points will change some and will need to be re-gapped and set. I don't know the what the gap set is but I'm sure someone will step up and say where those points are suppose to be set.
The oil I was talking about is just on the end of the crankshaft and the hole in the flywheel, where they will fit together when you put the flywheel back on. You don't want any oil in that fit. The points will need a small amount of lube, grease not oil, but no oil or grease of any kind on the fit of the crankshaft and flywheel. Thats a tapered fit meant to be free of all lube. As you tighted down the flywheel its a compressed fit and thats why there should be no oil in the fit. Will be looking for a progress report on that old saw, keep us posted.....
coveredinsap
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK, I see what you mean. I'll file them down.
One other thing I noticed...there was only one wire to the switch. I can't seem to find any trace of another wire, but there does seem to be a place on the switch where another terminal could have broken off. Doesn't a switch need two wires to interrupt a circuit? I've got a black wire running to the switch as seen in the photo coming out of the points housing. What other wire should be running from the switch?
Thanks
One other thing I noticed...there was only one wire to the switch. I can't seem to find any trace of another wire, but there does seem to be a place on the switch where another terminal could have broken off. Doesn't a switch need two wires to interrupt a circuit? I've got a black wire running to the switch as seen in the photo coming out of the points housing. What other wire should be running from the switch?
Thanks
Checking the "Off" switch
Hi. It is a fairly easy thing to check if you have access to either an ohm meter or a continuity tester. With a ohm meter, start by setting the resistance (R) scale to the lowest setting. (Example: RX1). If the meter has an auto ranging feature then don't worry about it, the meter will automatically do this for you. With a continuity tester you will have as an indication of a complete circuit either a light, an audible tone, or both together. I am assuming that your switch is attached to the metal housing of your saw. This would be your 2nd wire. With the switch stihl (sorry, I couldn't resist) attached, take one test lead and touch the terminal which has the wire hooked up to it. Take your other test lead and hold it against a clean and bare metal surface on the saw. As you cycle the switch on and off you will get a difference in readings or indications depending on what test device you are using. If there is no change then you have a defective switch or a grounded-out wire. It is actually very simple and it takes longer to read this than it does to do the actual test. Good luck.
Hi. It is a fairly easy thing to check if you have access to either an ohm meter or a continuity tester. With a ohm meter, start by setting the resistance (R) scale to the lowest setting. (Example: RX1). If the meter has an auto ranging feature then don't worry about it, the meter will automatically do this for you. With a continuity tester you will have as an indication of a complete circuit either a light, an audible tone, or both together. I am assuming that your switch is attached to the metal housing of your saw. This would be your 2nd wire. With the switch stihl (sorry, I couldn't resist) attached, take one test lead and touch the terminal which has the wire hooked up to it. Take your other test lead and hold it against a clean and bare metal surface on the saw. As you cycle the switch on and off you will get a difference in readings or indications depending on what test device you are using. If there is no change then you have a defective switch or a grounded-out wire. It is actually very simple and it takes longer to read this than it does to do the actual test. Good luck.
THALL10326
The Champ
coveredinsap said:
Hmmm most switches have just one wire. The switch is merely a kill switch. Unless there is a another wire somewhere running somewhere up close to the switch its not likely it uses two wires. The coil is grounded to the engine by being bolted to it, some use a wire to the engine, so one wire is usually only needed by the switch to kill the circut and stop the spark.
When you file those points make sure they are clean, dont leave any dust on them and positively no oil of any kind on the point contacts themselves. If they get oil on them it will fry them so make sure the contacts are super clean, no dust left behind and no oil of any kind on the contacts.
You need to ask around what the point gap setting is after you file them down. I don't know the exact setting but someone will on here. You will need a regular old feeler gauge to set them and then your about done. So far so good. Stay at it and keep us posted.........
