Troubleshooting no spark

[coveredinsap]

I used the search feature but didn't find anything....is there a link to a thread or post detailing the complete procedure for troubleshooting a chainsaw's no spark condition?

Thanks

 

[romeo]

9 out of 10 times its your CDI. 1 out of 10 its your kiil switch wire.

 

[314epw]

dead?

I assume you tried a new plug.Then take on/off switch out and join the two wires together and try it.On ebay you can get a spark tester for 3 bucks.It attaches BEFORE the plug.Still no spark probably ignition module.:deadhorse: :deadhorse:
Ed

 

[ShoerFast]

I used the search feature but didn't find anything....is there a link to a thread or post detailing the complete procedure for troubleshooting a chainsaw's no spark condition?

Thanks

No spark , would be sort of saw specific , like electronic vs points controlled , old electronic chain brakes throw in an extra step.

But all TS trees work the same, and try to isolate fault by splitting the possibility's.

But all test should start by modifying a spark plug by braking the ground tang off, or widen the gap as a preliminary test tool, then isolate fault to the trigger side ( off-kill switch , points or electronic effects) or the secondary side (coil , plug-lead)

Kevin

 

[coveredinsap]

Thanks for the tips....the switch is definitely suspect as it just feels 'wrong' i.e. worn.

Sorry...the saw is a big old Remington Super 754. I replaced the spark plug (boy is that a pain on this model) but I'm still getting nothing.

 

[ShoerFast]

Thanks for the tips....the switch is definitely suspect as it just feels 'wrong' i.e. worn.

Sorry...the saw is a big old Remington Super 754. I replaced the spark plug (boy is that a pain on this model) but I'm still getting nothing.

That seems to be a trend, bad switches feel "bougy" or "soggy" for lack of a better discription.

To test it, just un-plug it, that will "open" the primary side of the coil, kill-switches for the most part work by grounding the primary side of the coil, disapating generation.

Kevin

Edit: I'm making an asumption that it is a points controled ing. by the use of the word "old" ?

 

[THALL10326]

Thanks for the tips....the switch is definitely suspect as it just feels 'wrong' i.e. worn.

Sorry...the saw is a big old Remington Super 754. I replaced the spark plug (boy is that a pain on this model) but I'm still getting nothing.

Thats chainsaw number 9 if my memory is correct Sap. Got the fever bad huh, cool. Unhook the wires to the on/off switch and DON'T tie them together and then look for a spark. Most saws when you cross (join) the switch wires that is what cuts the spark off, not turn the spark on. Thats really all the on/off switch does, opens the circut and then closes the circut. Also check inside the spark plug wire boot that fits over the plug and look closely at the spark plug clip. Thats those metal coils that attach to the head of the spark plug itself that are down inside the spark plug boot. I've found many that totally rusted away and resulted in no spark due to no decent connection to the plug itself. Since you already replaced the spark plug its fairly safe to say thats good. If the switch is bypassed by unhooking it and making sure the switch wires aren't joined, the spark plug wire itself is in good condition as well as the clip inside the boot, and there is still no spark your down to the coil or points and condenser if that saw has points in it. Hopefully its just a faulty switch because parts for that saw will be far and few, Remmington hasn't been around in years. You can rig up any switch and attach it the saw or merely bypass it altogether and choke out the saw to cut it off. Keep us posted on how things go.....

 

[Dan Forsh]

It's sooo nice to see you boys play nice for a change ;-)

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Check your points.

 

[Lawn Masters]

Check your points.

EXACTLY what I would say. odds are the points are dirty and need to be cleaned up some. otherwise they'll not work properly, and you find the no spark issue.

 

[retoocs555]

Check your points.

Another vote that way.

I've worked on 3 of those Super 754 remmingtons. Each had been sitting a long time, each had no spark to begin with, and each made spark like a champ after I filed down the points.

 

[coveredinsap]

Another vote that way.

I've worked on 3 of those Super 754 remmingtons. Each had been sitting a long time, each had no spark to begin with, and each made spark like a champ after I filed down the points.

Thanks for the tips everyone, I'll let you know how it goes.

I'm curious, how'd you get the spark plug out of the 754's you worked on? I had to make a custom socket that would fit under that trigger protuberance....and it was still tough to get at.

Also...is there a parts schematic available anywhere for this saw?

Thanks

 

[coveredinsap]

flywheel pics

OK, so this is for you chainsaw engine guru's ....how do I get this flywheel off exactly? The shaft is threaded, and I've already removed the nut by holding on to the flywheel and using a wrench. The nut came off in the regular direction, i.e. not reverse threaded.

Also, I'm assuming that if I do somehow get it off, that it has to be put back aligned exactly in the same position that it was on the shaft?

Thanks

 

[THALL10326]

OK, so this is for you chainsaw engine guru's ....how do I get this flywheel off exactly? The shaft is threaded, and I've already removed the nut by holding on to the flywheel and using a wrench. The nut came off in the regular direction, i.e. not reverse threaded.

Also, I'm assuming that if I do somehow get it off, that it has to be put back aligned exactly in the same position that it was on the shaft?

Thanks

Those 3 holes in the flywheel look to be there for attaching a flywheel puller and pulling off the flywheel. Assuming you don't have such a puller is no big deal for you can get that wheel off without one. Put the flywheel nut back onto the crank but do not screw it so far down that the crank exposes through it. Take a screwdriver of some sort and pry it behind the flywheel and gently take a hammer and tap the flywheel nut. Once the vibraion breaks loose the fit you can take the flywheel off by merely pulling on it. As for putting it back on you will need some sort of piston stop, a piece of rope or something that you can block the piston with so the crank won't turn as you tighted the flywheel nut back down. As for lining up the flywheel there should be a key slot in the crank with a small key that fits in the groove of the flywheel. Line them up, tighten down and your back in business.....

 

[THALL10326]

Note those threads are for the flywheel nut, not the flywheel. The flywheel fits over the threads on most all saws..........

 

[clearance]

Sap, if you are going to ask for help, take the "authority on saws" bit from beside your name, if you have to ask, you ain't the authority, follow me? Also time to take the plunge, step up to a Husky or Stihl modern pro saw.

 

[sawinredneck]

Sap, if you are going to ask for help, take the "authority on saws" bit from beside your name, if you have to ask, you ain't the authority, follow me? Also time to take the plunge, step up to a Husky or Stihl modern pro saw.

X2


(Clearance, you are on a roll today my friend )
Andy

 

[coveredinsap]

Sap, if you are going to ask for help, take the "authority on saws" bit from beside your name, if you have to ask, you ain't the authority, follow me? Also time to take the plunge, step up to a Husky or Stihl modern pro saw.

That really irks the hell out of you, doesn't it. Tell you what...I'll sell the title to you. LOL!

 

[CaseyForrest]

:rockn: :biggrinbounce2: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[carvinmark]

:rockn: :biggrinbounce2: :hmm3grin2orange:

We wern't talkin bout this earlier were we?????????:hmm3grin2orange :rockn: