Trying To Keep Our Saws Quieter

[Mastermind]

We've been trying to find ways to keep the saws we build as quiet as possible, yet still have enough outlet area to run well after porting.

Here's one that Jon just did for a 390XP.





And here's a stock muffler.





Everything under the deflector is cut out, and the screen is replaced with a more open mesh.

 

[nk14zp]

Any db readings?

 

[pro94lt]

This is good.

 

[LowVolt]

Get a db meter app if you have a smartphone. A lot if good useable free ones out there.

I am curious how many more dbs a ported saw is compared to stock.

 

[jeepyfz450]

That's all I did on my 660 and also removed the cage inside. I think they breath plenty

Smittybilt saws

 

[komatsuvarna]

Huh?!?!?! I cant hear ya?

I like em' a little loud .

 

[mopar3]

I've noticed that my stock 441c is about loud as I can stand with out hearing protection. Is the muffler a bottle neck on a 441?

 

[Terry Syd]

On mufflers like the one in the photo, I also use the two tubes as outlets. The hack way to do it is to stick a Dremel into the exhaust port opening and grind out a couple of holes in the tubes. That may drop the backpressure, but it allows the sonic wave to go directly out the tube - it makes it loud.

The better way is to put the entrance holes on the side of the tube OPPOSITE of the exhaust port outlet. The sonic wave then has to bounce around in the muffler before it can go out the tube - its a lot quieter.

The way I do it is to drill a couple holes on the outside of the muffler that allows me to put a sharpened nail through the hole to prick the side of the tube. The prick in the side of the tube allows the drill to get a starting point on the curved surface. Once I have the tube drilled, I stick in a Dremel bit and open up the side of the tube so it can flow.

Its easy to see where the Dremel is opening up the tube if you put a light at one end of the tube and look down the tube as you grind your opening bigger. I make the opening more of a 'slot' along the length of the tube. Not only does it keep the opening away from the exhaust port, but it will keep the muffler bolt from falling into the muffler.

I then just braze over the access hole on the outside of the muffler.

If you split the muffler, the mod to the tubes is even easier.

 

[blsnelling]

I'm getting away from adding additional ports on many saws myself. It's simply not needed in most cases.

 

[CR888]

M/Mded saws can be really loud. ln built up areas this can effect your saw selection for the day and while a loud outlet is fashionable to some it can be hinderece for others that use thier OPE in suburbia. l think the 'monkey' is acknowledging a weak point in building a true work saw which is a positive thing. l like how he tries not to re-invent the wheel keeping things simple and functionable while being descreat in appearance. i.e spark arresters are kept and big(l have a modded saw) pipes are'nt used.

 

[Stihl 041S]

The muffler on my ported 111S is not modded.

 

[old-cat]

On STIHL 044s, before EPA the muffler outlet was a "perfect" size and that's what I like to see on all my "old" STIHLs, 036 MS440 and my MS461.

 

[moody]

It may be in my head but I've noticed that the thickness of the deflector material also seems to affect the noise. I personally love having a nice pop in my saw. I started doing the husqvarna mufflers like the one Randy posted above after a particular saw I did about made my ears bleed. If you're reading this Ronnie I'm welding your 395 muffler shut and giving you a hack saw.

 

[Stihl Livin]

We've been trying to find ways to keep the saws we build as quiet as possible, yet still have enough outlet area to run well after porting.

Here's one that Jon just did for a 390XP.





And here's a stock muffler.





Everything under the deflector is cut out, and the screen is replaced with a more open mesh.

You want me to send you a box of ear plugs to stuff in the mufflers to quite them.

 

[Mastermind]

Thanks for all the replies......sorry I've not replied......I've been busy working on another thread.

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ndrum-of-wicked-worksaws.252990/#post-4710563

 

[redfin]

This is what I diid on my 026 because after I opened up the face of the original muffler it was just stupid loud and tinny.

I did not notice any loss but the dbs of the saw was much more tolerable.I understand that larger/less holes aid in the flow but this worked well for me compared to the small four holes originally in the muffler. There are four holes which combined are roughly 100% of the exhaust opening.

 

[Terry Syd]

Nice work on the baffle.

On one of my saws where I could open up the seam to get it apart, I also put in a baffle. The factory opening at the top of the muffler was allowing the sonic wave to directly go out the opening from the exhaust port. I bent some thin sheet metal and brazed a baffle on to the bolt tubes to prevent the sonic wave from going directly out the port. The sonic waves have to bounce off the inside of the front of the muffler, then off the back, before they can go out the factory port.

 

[rdtreewalker]

It may be in my head but I've noticed that the thickness of the deflector material also seems to affect the noise. I personally love having a nice pop in my saw. I started doing the husqvarna mufflers like the one Randy posted above after a particular saw I did about made my ears bleed. If you're reading this Ronnie I'm welding your 395 muffler shut and giving you a hack saw.

Your no fun, I like it when ppl can hear it 3 miles away

 

[moody]

Your no fun, I like it when ppl can hear it 3 miles away

Well I'm usually 30 feet away and hearing protection doesn't seem to keep my ears from bleeding

 

[Adirondackstihl]

We've been trying to find ways to keep the saws we build as quiet as possible

That's GHEY