Greg85
New Member
Hello all, I am new to the forum. I had been reading several threads on here as I got more and more into saws and have finally joined!
I run Stihl MS 261c saws at work. Granted, Stihl is a premier brand, and this particular model a professional series saw, I have not been impressed with them on all levels. I will admit, the saws can standup to an all day beating. I recently ran a Stihl 026 and felt that saw was much better. More details on this later perhaps.
Well, the Stihls are not my personally owned saws and not always available when needed so one particular day I decided to bring my own personal saw to work. That day, I brought a Homelite XL-123. For the record, I own 2 other Homelite Super Ez's, CS-670, a Husquvarna 455, and 2 Poulan 2150s. These aren't monster saws...but fine for the work around the house. What I sometimes encounter at work is another story.
One of my Poulan 2150s was given to me, I had gone through it and now runs great. I picked up another 2150 off of craigslist for $20, this one a year or two newer as I noted some minor differences. This cheap saw I consider my "beater", and carry it to work as a backup saw for clearing small/medium stuff if need be.
The Poulan I picked up did fire up and run, but it stalled every-time I turned the saw to its side or to its side and back again. I didn't think fuel was pooling in the crankcase (factory limiters still on) and suspected an airleak. When I got the time I went through this one. I replaced all the fuel lines, I pulled the jug and sonic cleaned it, RTVed the base gasket, cleaned the piston, sonic cleaned the sparkplug and carburetor, cleaned up all carb gasket surfaces...just went through every bit of it in detail, etc. I did, however, on this saw, measure the exhaust port with spaghetti and opened up the muffler 80%. I removed the limiter caps and went to try the saw. The stalling issue is now gone.
Well...after the muffler job this saw now came to life and I'm actually somewhat impressed with it. I read different things as to whether it's 34cc or 42cc (2.1ci)...it appears the same piston and jug are used on various models and perhaps* the crank differs to vary stroke - the emissions label says its 36cc, the "new" 2150 / 3816 model is 38cc..., online diagrams say 42cc - I guess it doesn't matter, all the engines are probably the same it's just a gimmick. But...for a tiny motor whatever it be, it performs now. I got 150psi on the engine (with light oil) before removing all carbon. My other 2150 came in at 130psi, this one the same after break in with no oil.
My big question is...right now I am running the saw a little fat. I found that if I lean the saw out, 1/2 turn on the H screw, it still four strokes at WOT and cleans up in the cut. 1/2 richer, it four strokes at WOT and also cleans up in the cut. However, it cuts nearly twice as fast with a leaner setting. I must be gaining a couple thousand RPMs. Now, from what I understand, using a tach to tune the saw just ballparks it and after a muffler job the max RPM rating sort of goes out the window. I know what running a saw lean sounds like and what will happen, and also rich. For the longevity of the saw, running it a little fat is probably best...but, if I lean the saw out...essentially to where it cuts the fastest but does not scream and stills four-strokes when lifting in the cut...can I still be too lean? Guys who race saws probably run their saws right on the edge, but only cut a couple cookies. How do I go about finding the perfect balance between power/speed and running the saw just rich enough not to cook it as a working saw without sacrificing performance?
I run Stihl MS 261c saws at work. Granted, Stihl is a premier brand, and this particular model a professional series saw, I have not been impressed with them on all levels. I will admit, the saws can standup to an all day beating. I recently ran a Stihl 026 and felt that saw was much better. More details on this later perhaps.
Well, the Stihls are not my personally owned saws and not always available when needed so one particular day I decided to bring my own personal saw to work. That day, I brought a Homelite XL-123. For the record, I own 2 other Homelite Super Ez's, CS-670, a Husquvarna 455, and 2 Poulan 2150s. These aren't monster saws...but fine for the work around the house. What I sometimes encounter at work is another story.
One of my Poulan 2150s was given to me, I had gone through it and now runs great. I picked up another 2150 off of craigslist for $20, this one a year or two newer as I noted some minor differences. This cheap saw I consider my "beater", and carry it to work as a backup saw for clearing small/medium stuff if need be.
The Poulan I picked up did fire up and run, but it stalled every-time I turned the saw to its side or to its side and back again. I didn't think fuel was pooling in the crankcase (factory limiters still on) and suspected an airleak. When I got the time I went through this one. I replaced all the fuel lines, I pulled the jug and sonic cleaned it, RTVed the base gasket, cleaned the piston, sonic cleaned the sparkplug and carburetor, cleaned up all carb gasket surfaces...just went through every bit of it in detail, etc. I did, however, on this saw, measure the exhaust port with spaghetti and opened up the muffler 80%. I removed the limiter caps and went to try the saw. The stalling issue is now gone.
Well...after the muffler job this saw now came to life and I'm actually somewhat impressed with it. I read different things as to whether it's 34cc or 42cc (2.1ci)...it appears the same piston and jug are used on various models and perhaps* the crank differs to vary stroke - the emissions label says its 36cc, the "new" 2150 / 3816 model is 38cc..., online diagrams say 42cc - I guess it doesn't matter, all the engines are probably the same it's just a gimmick. But...for a tiny motor whatever it be, it performs now. I got 150psi on the engine (with light oil) before removing all carbon. My other 2150 came in at 130psi, this one the same after break in with no oil.
My big question is...right now I am running the saw a little fat. I found that if I lean the saw out, 1/2 turn on the H screw, it still four strokes at WOT and cleans up in the cut. 1/2 richer, it four strokes at WOT and also cleans up in the cut. However, it cuts nearly twice as fast with a leaner setting. I must be gaining a couple thousand RPMs. Now, from what I understand, using a tach to tune the saw just ballparks it and after a muffler job the max RPM rating sort of goes out the window. I know what running a saw lean sounds like and what will happen, and also rich. For the longevity of the saw, running it a little fat is probably best...but, if I lean the saw out...essentially to where it cuts the fastest but does not scream and stills four-strokes when lifting in the cut...can I still be too lean? Guys who race saws probably run their saws right on the edge, but only cut a couple cookies. How do I go about finding the perfect balance between power/speed and running the saw just rich enough not to cook it as a working saw without sacrificing performance?
