Two projects: 2145 oiler adjust and 024super fuel line.

[WadePatton]

I'm a bit green on saw repair, but have to do these two things next. I am an accomplished wrencher.

The 2145 was stolen-trashed-recovered, and then rebuilt by my dealer. Some time later I notice the bar oil adjustment screw is missing. He has ordered the part, but he recommended me doing it myself. So after I pull the clutch--anything special? I suspect the boneheads that stole it turned the screw and broke it. Maybe the innards is okay.

The 024 Super was having problems many years ago. It was narrowed down to fuel line--which I bought but never put on. BUT now I'm all hyped up to get that saw running again. Any special tricks or things to watch for in that operation-fuel line replacement?

Of course I'll clean and inspect all the parts/pieces as I go.

Nothing makes 20-year-dead black locust shiver like me coming to the woods with three saws.

 

[HiOctane]

After removing the clutch,remove the allen screw holding the steel plate,and the oil pump appears.Remove the bolt holding it.On the 024,install the fuel line from inside to outside using a piece of hanger or something to guide the hose tru the hole.

 

[WadePatton]

Thanks.

I just pulled the line on the 024 and DANG that's easy enough. I think I remember fooling with the linkage and taking the carb off/on. Line is mucho simpler.

So, for grins, I shot a bit of brake clean (only flammable handy) into the carb of the 24 with line removed. It started on 1/2 pull!

My Johnny Reds take 12 pulls from cold to start--always have.

 

[WadePatton]

So much for that.

About six hours of fooling with the Stihl, it ain't running. First problem was pump diaphram upside down. Then it sputtered some, but never could get it to run good enough to make carb adjustments. There's some leaks or something to be found. Got fuel, spark, compression--ratios are out of whack.

 

[Lakeside53]

Is your metering needle set too high? On your carbs, it is NOT supposed to be level with the top of the carb...


damn typos... I meant to say METERING LEVER

 

[WadePatton]

I'm not looking at the carb again until I do the pressure test. My shop is currently missing a T-25 (freakin torx), so I'm dead in the water until tomorrow--when a parts house opens.

Metering needle--the one with the rubber tip, typically activated by a float assembly on a 4-stroker--that one? Wouldn't I have to bend the linkage to change its position?

It does seal nicely--with the pump diaphram flipped, you won't get a drop of fuel. That was from the last time I had this saw apart several years ago.:bang:

This saw is from the mid 80's And ran like a dream for years. I SHALL resurrect it. Maybe I'll grind down my T-35-- heck it's raining anyway.

OH YEAH, anybody tell me how the shut-off wire was rigged on this thing. I see the place for it on the switch, but I pulled it off in the field one day. Long story--but I think that was near the beginnings of this trouble.

 

[Lakeside53]

Shut-off wire: One end inserts into the lower back portion of the metal spring, the other into the slot/hole in the throttle lever. When the lever is "off", it shorts the black wire to the green wires though the spring.


Carb - the LEVER is the part the diaphragm center touches. When the diaphragm is down, it presses the lever to allow the needle to rise. Yes, it needs to be "bent' (a very slight "tweak") so that it sits at the correct height, which in your case is likely level with the inside bottom of the casting. You really should use the correct tool from Walbro to check this as it's critical - and only about $4.00

If the metering diaphragm was upside down, that's an indicator that the carb has been messed with, so trust nothing. Check the order off all gaskets/diaphragms, and note they are different on the pump and metering sides.

Pump side cover->gasket->pump diaphragm->carb body
Metering side cover-> metering diaphragm-> gasket-> carb body. The metering diaphragm will have the metal disk to the inside of the carb.

If you really get stuck, I can lend you a rebuilt carb that will work on your 024S to prove if it's the carb or not. You have to pay the postage. PM me if interested.

 

[Lakeside53]

one more thing -don't grind tool to a T25... you need a T27!

 

[WadePatton]

DANG, I knew this was a super site! First time I seed it.

Okay-grind a 27, no problem. Now I think I gots my pump and meter terminology confused. I've been into 100 of these things, usually throw the weedwhacker away when I can't make it run anymore--probably leaky cases.

Anyhoo _I'm_ the only one who has ever been into this carb. If the meter diaphram was in upside-down, then I did it. I flipped it because no fuel was getting in and I noticed that the protrusion from the center of the diaphram was the short side--and I figured not long enough to activate the lever that moves the needle. So I flipped it and got fuel.

Now, dangit, I'll go double check the orientation and the level...and fire up the mini-lathe.

Muchas Gracias-- report at 11.

 

[WadePatton]

Otay, had a meter diaphram problem.

Starting now, but not long enough to adjust. Stalls out like it's starving for fuel

Gotta eat some grub now.

 

[WadePatton]

Querstion: Running decent for a few seconds. Does that eliminate case leaks?

Imina go back to the carb for fun.

 

[WadePatton]

(edit) After I cook/eat and the saw cools on down to stone cold (50F in my heated shop)--Now the dam thing won't hit a lick.

How does the tank vent work? Tall piece of black plastic on this one. Looks like a screw up inside there. Flows very little air.

 

[Lakeside53]

(edit) After I cook/eat and the saw cools on down to stone cold (50F in my heated shop)--Now the dam thing won't hit a lick.

How does the tank vent work? Tall piece of black plastic on this one. Looks like a screw up inside there. Flows very little air.

It's supposed to let in "very little" air at a time.. If you think it's a problem, just take it off and try the saw without it (it just pops of vertically).

Set your carb to exactly one turn out both screws, turn the LA way up to be sure it idles very fast, then adjust your L, then LA, then L etc.

Does it start up with at fast run (with the throttle interlock in place)? is your choke closing properly?

If it runs in burst then quits, most likely your impluse line etc.

 

[WadePatton]

Found a local saw-tech who'll pressure test for $15.

Okay on the tank vent. Tired of pulling the string tonight.

 

[WadePatton]

Okay, I've been reading more...

I drilled out the plug and found a bit of crud. Fixed all that up, ain't no more dirty holes in the codulator.

It'll start and run for less than 10 seconds. Then restart for 5 seconds. Then restart for 2 or 3 seconds. Then no hit.

I'll pull the plug and dry it out, and EVENtually the above sequence will play out again.

Is it running out or loading up? hmmm doesn't acellerate before dying, must be loading up. Plug is wet huh?

Leaky case or pissy gas?

 

[Lakeside53]

Okay, I've been reading more...

I drilled out the plug and found a bit of crud. Fixed all that up, ain't no more dirty holes in the codulator.

It'll start and run for less than 10 seconds. Then restart for 5 seconds. Then restart for 2 or 3 seconds. Then no hit.

I'll pull the plug and dry it out, and EVENtually the above sequence will play out again.

Is it running out or loading up? hmmm doesn't acellerate before dying, must be loading up. Plug is wet huh?

Leaky case or pissy gas?

Sounds like you have a flooding carb... Air leaks will mainly affect idle, not high speed running. If they are really bad though, they can stop you pumping gas but that doesn't sound like your problem. If you want to eliminate the "pumping " issue, just take a weed eater tank, 3 feet of fuel line, and gravity feed your carb.

Pay the $15 and get you saw pressure/vac tested. At the same time, pressure test the carb... Then at last you'll know.

or, I pay you $15 for the saw, shipping to be paid by you!


BTW, what did you drill and what the heck is a "codulator"/

 

[WadePatton]

Codulator is the hunk of metal with holes in it what 'sposed to mix the air/fuel in a manner such that the engine will run, but apparently won't--after a few beers and 1132 pulls on the rope.

Welch/welsh plug they call it. Yanked that out, cleared the crud--some, but not bad. Cleaned, soaked, blowed, soaked, blowed, visualed, and slapped it back together with all the gaskets and diaphrams new and in the proper position. Also replaced the meter needle with the metal tipped one from the kit. The meter lever height was pronounced "okay" by my Jonsered dealer. Screen replaced--all clean under there.

Did not pull the brass-colored plug although there is one in my kit. Nozzle Check Valve is what "Molecule" calls it.

 

[WadePatton]

"028 troubleshooting" is the main thread I've been studying.

 

[WadePatton]

PULSE LINE BAD!

Way bad. New one on order--next week I'll give it another go...if I can resist the urge to patch it up and try it before then.

SO now I go pull the Jonsy clutch and look at the oiler components.

 

[WadePatton]

impulse line came in today..installed and

Had to pull the plug wire to kill it.

2.85 USD Plus I found a this site and met a few local saw techs.

Now to fix the kill switch.