Two-Stroke Oils: All the Same?

[schreib69]

I've read some more of your posts. You're here for a fight, not to learn. Not interested.

Well, you would be wrong.
Just trying to get at the meat of things.
Main conclusion start use the Red Armor stuff.
Second conclusion learn how to "tune by ear", certainly, without YOUR help! So, thanks just the same.

 

[schreib69]

“4 stroking” is that gargling drowning growl sound saws make. You have too much fuel in the fuel/air mix, and you end up not combusting 100% and every fey cycles it skips. That means you have extra fuel IMMEDIATELY available in the cylinder when you add air by hitting the throttle.

The “cleared up” sound is exactly what it sounds like. It changes from sounding like it’s a bit ticked at not being cutting wood to a pure, enthusiastic roar.

Wow, thanks. I have a clue now. It seems best to start fiddling with my carb screw and listen for this difference. I have never done that; just turn it out the 1.5 turns per Stihl's book. Mainly because I have never been trained in the "art" of tuning like most of you here have been. . . thank you.

 

[sean donato]

Just showed up...

 

[bwalker]

Ha yeah I was not specifically trying to pick a fight with ya or anything, and this topic is sooooo beaten to death, there's no valid argument against using whatever oil is formulated specifically for whatever you're using.
In fact, many newer snowmobile oils have some additives removed to avoid gumming up variable exhaust valves, so a true air-cooled chainsaw oil is going to have additional additives anyway, that's why I use Echo oil these days.

A modern snowmobile oil will be Jaso FC/FD.

 

[bwalker]

VP Racing 100% for me and close to half the cost (depending which store you buy VP in) of the red armor semi. Both FD

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You can't go wrong with either. Both are genuine JaSO FD certified oils.

 

[bwalker]

I used RA before they switched the formula in a $700 new Echo 280 PAS to the cheapened version they sell now for the same high price. Was good back then. VP does the same thing RA did for way less money.
Some folks just like to stuff others pockets IMHO, I prefer to protect my equipment and keep the money in mine.


https://vpracingfuels.com/product/2-cycle-full-synthetic-oil/?c=245


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Why do you assume they cheapened the formula?

 

[North by Northwest]

OK, I do all that-- except the most important part. I am now showing my ignorance, be gentle.
So, can you please detail these important points!

"tune until it 4 strokes out of the cut."
AND
"Clears up in the cut" ?? huh?

by the way I have a tach, at least! never used it.

Basically , and no offence intended . To keep it simple , you want the saw borderline rich within fuel to air ratio or "tuned a little fat" so that with no load it will blubber a little (4 stroke) . Once into the cut it will clean out & pick up some rpm . The old school Methology was to 1st bring the saw up to operating temperature , then turn the high speed jet in or out to achieve maximum rpm @ WOT & then back it off a 1/4 turn . This would provide the maximum (lean) rpm initially . But would then provide a little more fuel to protect from overheating . It was sketchy at best but a starting point . Anyhow , also you had to set the low speed to allow easy starting and acceleration or throttle up without hesitation . Then finally a proper idle speed allowing for as easy cold start , without too high a idle once warm . Hope this helps brother , much easier to indicate in person than describe ! lol .

 

[MacAttack]

A modern snowmobile oil will be Jaso FC/FD.

I still use Klotz Techniplate in my old Polaris 700 triple, no idea what it's rated, but after 26 years my engine is still going strong.
I have a few bottles of newer Cat and Skidoo synthetic oil laying around, I'll have to check the bottles.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Why do you assume they cheapened the formula?

Read up on it. I dont assume, they did.

I just refuse to pay more for less.

Guys in the know that used the old mentioned even yesterday they see the difference in the new and switched oils.

Can even tell the difference by bottles when they switched to the new labels used today.

The newer cheapen formula they went to in new bottle at bottom.

 

[skeet88]

Just showed up...

Christmas on Halloween

 

[North by Northwest]

I hope everyone had a Safe & Enjoyable Halloween with the kids !

 

[michael j]

Wow, thanks. I have a clue now. It seems best to start fiddling with my carb screw and listen for this difference. I have never done that; just turn it out the 1.5 turns per Stihl's book. Mainly because I have never been trained in the "art" of tuning like most of you here have been. . . thank you.

Somewhere, there's a video on tuning. I know I saved it, but have no idea where.

I'll be searching.

 

[North by Northwest]

Read up on it. I dont assume, they did.

I just refuse to pay more for less.

Guys in the know that used the old mentioned even yesterday they see the difference in the new and switched oils.

Can even tell the difference by bottles when they switched to the new labels used today.

The newer cheapen formula they went to in new bottle at bottom.

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My four I gallon bottles are the 1st bottle label , that's the Original Blend ?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

My four I gallon bottles are the 1st bottle label , that's the Original Blend ?

All black background label was the original formula in past years back.

Been so many years now who knows what they have on them now. They could revert back to a black label who knows.

I just dont fall for the bait switch they did to folks years back and still charge the high price. Like others I went to another FD oil.

 

[echomeister]

They are different sized bottles. Maybe a more descriptive label for the bigger bottle ?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

They are different sized bottles. Maybe a more descriptive label for the bigger bottle ?

Take a look to put your theory to rest. https://www.echo-usa.com/red-armor/red-armor-oil

New label that was used when changed to the cheapen formula.

 

[Orbinrangle]

I plan to get a big container of oil for my 2-stroke engines. Does it really matter which brand I get? More importantly, are there brands I should avoid?

I use a standard mineral oil in all my saws when not using Aspen, but I do also own a Suzuki GT750A. Not tried any decent synthetic oil in a saw with my own mix but I can say without doubt that the Suzuki runs a lot better on synthetic. But, as ever, quality is key. Don't buy the cheapest and I personally stick to brands that have a reputation to lose. Except Stihl. Their oil is surprisingly not very good--even their pre mix is a bit iffy.

 

[North by Northwest]

Take a look to put your theory to rest. https://www.echo-usa.com/red-armor/red-armor-oil

New label that was used when changed to the cheapen formula.

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Ok , i recieved the original blend apparently . I will have to check the recipe . Likely a ester package added for more solvency or cleaning action , in the new formula .

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Ok , i recieved the original blend apparently . I will have to check the recipe . Likely a ester package added for more solvency or cleaning action , in the new formula .

Nope, they removed it in the newer formula.

 

[North by Northwest]

Nope , they removed it in the newer formula.

There was a previous diester or ester adder package or base oil , i will check when i get home lol.