Waaaaaaay back when I first started out wood working, I took pallets apart for wood to work with... I also took nice chunks of wood from my firewood pile too! lol
What I did, was to run the round, over my jointer several times until I had a good "flat". Then I took the flat sided round over to my band saw and after snapping a chalk like where I wanted my next cut to be, I would make it, cutting on the line with the band saw. (flat side down) Then continued to make cuts, to get the boards I wanted.....it's fast and no sled needed!
I cut up a lot of odd shaped pieces of what I called "craft wood" for myself and others, and have used a jointer a number of times to generate the first flat.
I found it worked well with regular round pieces of softer wood.
When then the wood is a piece of knobbly aussie hardwood with a bit of a bow (that's normal for interesting pieces of Aussie hardwood) I found it far from easy or quick .
On more difficult pieces I sometimes used a draw knife and an electric or hand planer to remove, bark, lumps and bumps and partially establish the flat before placing it onto the jointer.
All this is far from a quick operation (and not that safe) which is why I started using BS sleds.
I have made and used many BS sleds usually made out of 1/2 or 3/4" MDF or ply
The diagrams show regular round and straight pieces of wood, but this is rarely the case
Design A (simply Tek screwing the piece to a piece of MDF, the edge of which is run up against the fence) works well on small pieces, but for larger pieces may not be rigid enough to prevent the blade from tipping the wood over.
I used design B (Tek screws through MDF into the ends of the wood) for many years to cut up hundreds of pieces and eventually adapted it to design C which is even more stable.
Additional Tek screws can be inserted from the side for extra support
For designs B and C, some means of adjusting for width and/or length of piece are needed.
Eventually the MDF/ply gets ratty (especially pieces where Tek screws are used to hold the wood) which is why I decided to make a more robust, adjustable sled.
The above designs restrict the length of wood that can be cut because they do not hold the wood onto the BS table, so unless some sort of outfeed table is added or the wood and sled will just fall onto the floor at the end of the cut. ( I have no room for an BS outfeed table in my shop - if I hd room I would probably still be using Method C).
This is why I moved the sled to the outside of the band because this is where my BS has e T-track in the table and this holds hold the sled and wood onto the BS table even when it has finished the cut.
I have since found the wood and sled are also a bit easier and safer to manage in this position.
What it comes down to is how many pieces of wood need this sort of treatment. If you only need to do this occasionally then the jointer method is more than adequate, but when if you have many pieces the sled is quicker and safer and it will not take long to recover the time needed to make even a simple sled.