US Stove 1537G Improvements. Newbie?

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Racerboy832

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I picked up a 1537G stove for $899 shipped online new. It's at my shop now till I'm ready to bring it home soon. Anything you guys would do to improve it. Adding more firebricks? , blowers, etc... My house is only 1000sq feet. I have the welders and stuff here so I will do any work I can here. How long will it burn with a full load of wood?
 
I wouldn't modify a thing. At 1000 square feet, it will be overkill for the home. I'm not sure of the setup of the home, but at that square footage, I would have looked into a EPA rated stove, which would burn alot less wood than that wood furnace.
 
It's up and running

I have my Hotblast 1537G up and running. I am only getting 6 hours max out of a full load of wood. Can anyone out there tell me what you are using for dampner settings. I put this in my basement. I have 6" 25 foot run of double wall flexible pipe from basement to roof top. It drafts well. There is no flapper dampner in the 6" pipe. Mine has the Bi metal spring draft thing on the door. It seems like a real POS to me. I do not even know if it was set right from the factory. The chain seems too long. I would appreciate some help from those with experience Thank you.
 
I've got a 1537G I leave thing on the door closed. I use the spin draft door method, 1 turn when I'm home, closed when I'm not or asleep. It is the only method I found to work good I'm getting about 8-10 hrs on a full load of red oak and hickory. oh my house is a two story 1920's house that is ok on insulation, and about 1900 sq. feet. that stove sits 15 foot out side in a shed (due to insurance)and keeps it about 75-78 in the house
 
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I've got a 1537G I leave thing on the door closed. I use the spin draft door method, 1 turn when I'm home, closed when I'm not or asleep. It is the only method I found to work good I'm getting about 8-10 hrs on a full load of red oak and hickory.

:agree2:


This is the way I run mine and it gives me similar burn times with most any wood. I burn Hackberry, oak, ash, red elm, mulberry and a little hedge. My house is a little over 4000 sq ft and when it get's down near 0 I have to lean on it but I can still get 4-6 hrs. For what I have invested in the whole rig I am well satisfied with it.
 
I have my Hotblast 1537G up and running. I am only getting 6 hours max out of a full load of wood. Can anyone out there tell me what you are using for dampner settings. I put this in my basement. I have 6" 25 foot run of double wall flexible pipe from basement to roof top. It drafts well. There is no flapper dampner in the 6" pipe. Mine has the Bi metal spring draft thing on the door. It seems like a real POS to me. I do not even know if it was set right from the factory. The chain seems too long. I would appreciate some help from those with experience Thank you.

I'm with you Racer. I'm having a hard time getting more than 5 hours out of a full load. I tried closing the door damper and just using the under fire air control. I get a longer burn, but not enough heat to keep the blowers running. US Stove says not to run that control more than one full turn open. At that setting I get heat, but for only a short period before the wood is gone and just a pile of coals remain.

I'm sure the furnace has a "sweet spot" , but I have yet to find it.
 
I have a 1557M, same deal as the 1557G (feed door damper maybe different). I can get 8 hours burn time, I usually end up having to get creative when loading it. I did tighten the latch for the feed door this past weekend, which allowed me to choke it down even more.

My usual problem is how hot it runs ;) Got upto 75F lastnight downstairs and probably more after I fell asleep, loaded with mix of Oak slab and big hickory logs. Loaded it just before 10p and got up at 4am and had some coals left, threw slab in, got it going and loaded with hickory/pine combo for day burning.

It can sure put out the heat, I just wish it had a lil bigger firebox and better control of it for longer duration burning. Oh well, Bro inlaw has a clayton something, big brother of my 1557 and he can get 12 hour burn times. One thing I added the forced air draft and IMHO i think this is a control problem for me, to much air going in through the fan baffle.

Tes
 
One thing I added the forced air draft and IMHO i think this is a control problem for me, to much air going in through the fan baffle.

Tes


Ive got one to, more of a pain in the butt than its worth. I unhooked mine put a plug on it and plug it in only when trying to get it going or catch it because i forgot to go check it.
 
Mines open all the time throught the forced draft. I can get a 8 hour clean burn at night. I have a 35 foot masonary chimney, that had a bit of overdraft. I installed a baro and haven't had a bit of problems with the system. One thing to remember is they have alot of heating output. When heating 1000 square foot, it will throw you out of the home. They are made to burn when its cold. I would worry about a chimney fire by choking one down too much. You'll have to load it in smaller increments if you want to keep the heat down, if you load it to the gills for a long burn, expect too much heat. We have 2 temps in the home. 80 and 80. When its mild, I will only burn a few splits, and let the small coal bed kick in the heat. When its cold and windy then its a different story. I could get a 10 hour burn, but it wouldn't keep the house up to temp at night. Why waste heat, lower the burntimes a little and get more btus in the home. It takes some time to find a sweet spot, thats all.
 
US Stove says not to run that control more than one full turn open. .


This is only during a power outage...
no power to blower fan...will cause overfire..

During normal operation you can open more than 1 turn to get firebox temp up.
 
Some of you may have too much draft in the chimney. I have a small wood stove that would just burn too hot on any setting. Had a hard time dampering it down until I installed a barometric damper. Now, I get longer burn times with more heat staying longer in the stove rather than racing up the chimney. Just food for thought.
 
I am still trying to figure out my stove. It seems like if I choke it down on the bottom is just smolders the logs and turns the fans on and off. If I get a good flame it burns the stuff quick. I don't want to build up too much creisole. I would love to see a 8hr burn so I don't have to stuff it late and get up early.
 
Do you have the rear plug out, or have the forced draft kit. If you time it right, you can use the ashpan damper to regulate the heat if you remove the rear plug. Get a thermometer, and mount it above your loading door. That will help you gauge your heat a little better. And a 8 hour burn aint all flame. It also includes a good coal bed to reignite the wood in the morning. Also what type of wood are you burning, and is it seasoned?
 
I know I have an overdraft situation, slightly. During the dead of winter where my house is and how badly it leaks, I get stack effects and inversions so I use an exhausto fan during mid-dec to end of feb to prevent backdrafting. Shrug, one thing I can say, is I heat well and since I tightened the door I get 10 - 12 hour burn time and that my flue stays rather cresote free when using the exhaust fan ;)

When I am home, I use small fires, when I am away I load her up, I am not looking to maintain 70's when I am not home towards the end of the burn an ideal situation is to return in 60's after 12 hours, usually though most of this week I return with a couple coals around 12 hours and at 68F when I left in the morning it was at 72F, so not bad I guess.

Tes
 
Hot Blast 1400

If I stuff the stove at 10:00 p.m. and mix the wood with a little hedge, then open the spin draft one turn then back just a little bit it will make it to 6:00-6:30a.m. and the blowers will not shut off. I will also have a nice bed of coals to work with.

If I just load the stove with ash and oak the blowers will shut off about 4:30 in the morning and I will have enough coals to get the fire going again.

I have a 35ft stainless steel liner in a brick chinmey so I have lots of draft. I do not have a damper between the stove collar and the chimney. I have often wondered if this would help lenghten the burn times.
 
Tesen I believe you have it backwards. You shouldn't need an exhausto fan if you have an overdraft. You don't have enough draft, especially if you get backdrafts. I never get backdrafts, I just use a barometric damper, to help slow the draft. Ycsteve, If you can get those burn times without a damper, then you are okay. The only thing a damper may do is give a slight bit more heat. Its a basic firebox. I would consider 6 to 8 hours normal. If not burned properly, they can accumulate alot of creasote quickly. If I were you ycsteve, I would consider a barometric damper.
 
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Damper

My chimney comes right out of the wall also. Some what level with the stove. My manual mentions that it should have a damper but doesn't't elaborate on it. The guys that installed it didn't put one in and it seems like most people just use the spin draft on the ash pan door.

I would like to know how many of you have that have a hot blast furnace have a damper in between you flue collar and chimney?
 
Tesen I believe you have it backwards. You shouldn't need an exhausto fan if you have an overdraft. You don't have enough draft, especially if you get backdrafts. I never get backdrafts, I just use a barometric damper, to help slow the draft. Ycsteve, If you can get those burn times without a damper, then you are okay. The only thing a damper may do is give a slight bit more heat. Its a basic firebox. I would consider 6 to 8 hours normal. If not burned properly, they can accumulate alot of creasote quickly. If I were you ycsteve, I would consider a barometric damper.

No I don't have it backwards :) Perhaps I was not clear, I had a backdraft situation which then caused me to install an Exhausto, which due to the amount of air that the fan pulls even on low (36' - 38' tripple wall flue) causes a slight overdraft situation :) It is manageable and does not cause issues, just means I choke my fire down more than others would without it.


Tes
 
I have both, never got rid of the manual damper cause I'm just lazy. Just have the baro on there and the manual is always open. Dad used to just use the manual, but I found the baro to be much better. Only thing is a chimney fire with a baro would be very bad. So I burn hot and sweep my chimney as needed.
 
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