Using "Works" to remove Cylinder Aluminum Transfer

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Martinm210

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Waiting on my 660 parts saw to get here, I decided to start working on a good used spare OEM 066 cylinder I had on hand. It was of your typical stuck ring/piston transfered aluminum to the cylinder type of failure. No real significant scoring and it's a quality OEM cylinder, just needs the aluminum transfer removed.

So I did some searching and special thanks to Gink 595 in this thread here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=86571&highlight=acid+aluminum&page=2

He noted that the "Works" toilet bowl cleaner will do the trick. So at my local Fred Meyer store this morning I start looking at all the cleaners and sure enough this "Works" brand TB cleaner consists of 20% Hydrochloric Acid:rock:

That's not quite as strong as your Muriatic Acid concentrations, but strong enough.

Took a few pictures of the process, and it well....."WORKS" just fine..:D
removingaluminumtransfe.jpg


Hope this helps someone else that may be having a hard time finding straight muriatic acid. You can buy this stuff for about $2 a bottle just about anywhere and clean the John while your at it...:popcorn:
 
That stuff also works to melt red loc-tite. If you have a bolt with some on it in a place you can't use heat.
 
I did that once myself...

One other tip. Try to find some sort of flat thing - a feeler gauge, whatever - and check the bore for any high-spots. Sometimes a stick will bring up a lump that's really, really hard to see or feel. Steel bores usually won't do this, but plated aluminum ones often will. I used a round diamond file to knock the lumps off of a nikasil plated dirtbike jug once and it ran fine at least another 40 hours after that. Nothing else would touch that plating.

hth, la
 
Last edited:
Good to know.:)

I only use the blue loc-tite, but I'll keep this in mind if I run into some of the permanent red stuff.

Also thank on the cylinder lump note, I'm checking the cylinder over real carefully now. I don't think mine every seized solid, it was just a stuck ring, piston was still moving free.

I've got one more cylinder coming with the parts saw that may be salvagable, not sure though. I'm also bored, so I figured I'd start cleaning this one up.

After the cylinder acid cleaning, I threw it in the sandblast cabinet for a few minutes of exterior scrubbing.

Ahhhh...nothing like OEM quality.

I've just started in cleaning up the ports, so this is what they are supposed to look like...barely had to touch up any casting flaws..and the ports are actually rounded for good ring life..:rock:

sandblastedcylinder.jpg
 
Waiting on my 660 parts saw to get here, I decided to start working on a good used spare OEM 066 cylinder I had on hand. It was of your typical stuck ring/piston transfered aluminum to the cylinder type of failure. No real significant scoring and it's a quality OEM cylinder, just needs the aluminum transfer removed.

So I did some searching and special thanks to Gink 595 in this thread here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=86571&highlight=acid+aluminum&page=2

He noted that the "Works" toilet bowl cleaner will do the trick. So at my local Fred Meyer store this morning I start looking at all the cleaners and sure enough this "Works" brand TB cleaner consists of 20% Hydrochloric Acid:rock:

That's not quite as strong as your Muriatic Acid concentrations, but strong enough.

Took a few pictures of the process, and it well....."WORKS" just fine..:D
removingaluminumtransfe.jpg


Hope this helps someone else that may be having a hard time finding straight muriatic acid. You can buy this stuff for about $2 a bottle just about anywhere and clean the John while your at it...:popcorn:

Really nice job!!! Just wait till you get to a cylinder that has tons of build up, you will want that extra power of the hydrochloric acid. Still takes a while though, but the savings are worth it everytime.:rock:
 
Waiting on my 660 parts saw to get here, I decided to start working on a good used spare OEM 066 cylinder I had on hand. It was of your typical stuck ring/piston transfered aluminum to the cylinder type of failure. No real significant scoring and it's a quality OEM cylinder, just needs the aluminum transfer removed.

So I did some searching and special thanks to Gink 595 in this thread here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=86571&highlight=acid+aluminum&page=2

He noted that the "Works" toilet bowl cleaner will do the trick. So at my local Fred Meyer store this morning I start looking at all the cleaners and sure enough this "Works" brand TB cleaner consists of 20% Hydrochloric Acid:rock:

That's not quite as strong as your Muriatic Acid concentrations, but strong enough.

Took a few pictures of the process, and it well....."WORKS" just fine..:D
removingaluminumtransfe.jpg


Hope this helps someone else that may be having a hard time finding straight muriatic acid. You can buy this stuff for about $2 a bottle just about anywhere and clean the John while your at it...:popcorn:

Dude, you just saved me like an hours and some cash!! I've been looking for this for a while. Now I'm off to fixing my line trimmer cylinder!! :D Thanks!
 

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