vermont castings resolute

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bruce6670

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Does anyone have any opinions on the Resolute wood stove by Vermont Castings.I'm thinking of buying one that is from around 1980 and wanted to know if this is a good idea.

I also would like to know if it will be big enough for my 1600 sq.ft. house.

Thanks .
 
We had one, it had 1979 cast into the fireback. I bought it used..... used it a couple years and sold it for almost what i paid for it. Our house is an old New Englander, close in size to your house. It did pretty well, but i won't quite claim we heated 100% with it. No doubt it will do you well in your milder climate. It was built like a tank, and no doubt still heating the guy's house i sold it to. Here it is just before it's new owner picked it up, just after we bought our VC Defiant.


2510.jpg
 
Ya that's the stove.The one I looked at was black and seemed to be in very good shape.I don't know much about them though.

Are there any little problems I should be looking for ?
 
Check all the gaskets. They are easily replaced if they need to be. If they leak, you'll know it cuz it'll eat wood. Check it over for cracks. I never did a thing to mine while i owned it. If you end up with it..... i may still have the original manual from mine if you need one.
 
Check all the gaskets. They are easily replaced if they need to be. If they leak, you'll know it cuz it'll eat wood. Check it over for cracks. I never did a thing to mine while i owned it. If you end up with it..... i may still have the original manual from mine if you need one.

The guy has the manual and the original paperwork.

The asking price is $800. and it comes with 10' of 8" double wall chimney pipe,and most of the other installation parts.

Is it ok to use 8" chimney pipe when it calls for 6" ?

Thanks for the help.
 
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About what i paid for mine when i bought it. I can't comment on the stovepipe. Mine had a collar for 6 inch, which i believe is what the stove is designed for. 8 sounds too large to me, but i suppose there are alot of factors that come into play..... length of flue, etc. Better get some advice from someone with more knowledge on flue size than me.
 
Get a new modern stove. The increase in efficiency will pay for itself in short order. That is way too much money for an outdated stove design.

I looked into new stoves and just can't spend the money for one right now.Maybe I'll find a newer style used stove if I'm lucky.
 
It's a fine stove for the dough, especially if you are able to cut your own wood.Better to depend on state of the art 1980's technology than freeze or pay the gas man.I would stick with 6" pipe as it will be more efficient than the 8".
 
It's a fine stove for the dough, especially if you are able to cut your own wood.Better to depend on state of the art 1980's technology than freeze or pay the gas man.I would stick with 6" pipe as it will be more efficient than the 8".

Thanks for the reply Coog.

Wood is a none issue for me; I have plenty available.As for the gas man (oil man),I hear you.

How come the 8" pipe is less efficient than the 6" ? This stuff is new to me.
 
get the stove

look at the recommended venting then look at local codes..then figure out what you need..double wall is a huge waste of heat unless you have to like me. 8" pipe is probably not needed but you can reduce it to 6" for the expensive pipe above the ceiling. vermont castings is no longer in business from what I understand, but parts are still readily available. I have a 2461 cat stove I have had run hard and this is my 7th year with no replacement parts except for tightening the door bolts. Good luck with your decision
 
look at the recommended venting then look at local codes..then figure out what you need..double wall is a huge waste of heat unless you have to like me. 8" pipe is probably not needed but you can reduce it to 6" for the expensive pipe above the ceiling. vermont castings is no longer in business from what I understand, but parts are still readily available. I have a 2461 cat stove I have had run hard and this is my 7th year with no replacement parts except for tightening the door bolts. Good luck with your decision

The reason I asked about the bigger pipe was because it is included with the stove I'm getting.I think 6" is probably better, but if the 8" comes with it,I'll use it if it's not going to be an issue.
 
if you have 8" triple wall(or double wall insulated)

the black pipe is the cheap part. unless you are talking about enough 8" all the way out..it will not hurt anything..the stove will only allow enough flow as you let it flow with the air inlet..if you have 6" pipe the air inlet might be around 1/4-3/8 and with 8" might be 1/8-1/4. you can still regulate it. if it comes with it..I guess I would have to say you would be silly for spending money on something you don't need.. kinda like buying a bulldozer to plow your driveway.
 
the black pipe is the cheap part. unless you are talking about enough 8" all the way out..it will not hurt anything..the stove will only allow enough flow as you let it flow with the air inlet..if you have 6" pipe the air inlet might be around 1/4-3/8 and with 8" might be 1/8-1/4. you can still regulate it. if it comes with it..I guess I would have to say you would be silly for spending money on something you don't need.. kinda like buying a bulldozer to plow your driveway.

It comes with 10' of 8" double wall insulated plus some extras.
 
8" pipe

are you talking from the ceiling up or from the stove to the ceiling? or all the way. if from the stove to ceiling..follow recommended stove installation and code..if there is enough 8" to get you all the way out.. by all means save your money and use it. If you get 8" from the ceiling out..use that and follow code from the stove to ceiling buy a new ceiling support or adapt from stove to ceiling.. 8" pipe will only allow you more draft. unless you notice over firing with an almost closed stove.. I would say it is ok..google it and see if it specifies both sizes.
 
10 foot of double wall insulated

is from the ceiling up. there is nothing wrong with going from a 6" from the stove to the ceiling with adapters as long as you can find all the parts to adapt from one size to another..do some searches and see what is more cost efficient. the pipe from the ceiling up is the expensive part. if you have that in 8" and your stove outlet is 8" ....I would do that and save a shi*load of money on high priced 2100 degree pipe as long as it is in good shape. I have seen many sites that say double wall insulated is better than triple wall and have used both and didn't see much of a difference..I guess it depends how you burn. I always burn hot with seasoned wood. if you plan on using your HO insurance to cover your woodburner..it is more up to code than word of mouth. check with that manufacturer..you should be able to download a manual of that stove and local codes as well..that should give you everything you need to know
 
The stove also comes with 6" black pipe to go from the stove to the ceiling.I think it also comes with the adapter.

The guy who has it bought most of the stuff to install the stove and then changed his mind.

I called my insurance company and they said I can put it in and I also will be getting the local permits so that I don't have any problems later.
 
I priced some new 6" double wall insulated today.$60. per foot.I'm thinking about going that route instead of using old pipe, just to have piece of mind.
 
Get a new modern stove. The increase in efficiency will pay for itself in short order. That is way too much money for an outdated stove design.
+1. This stove was originally offered back in the late '70s along with its big brother, the Defiant. Both were good stoves in their day, but I doubt if their overall efficiency is much higher than 60%.

For that kind of money or for a few dollars more, you can do much better today and even obtain a new stove.
 
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