YOU make good sense..One time I bought a used saw with LIGHT scoring. The guy had ran 50:1. I mixed 32:1 ran the saw rich and actually wore the piston and cylinder enough that within a year that it's kinda lap fitted..Now I use 40:1 and it's cutting like new..
The operators manual recommended fuel is minimum 87 octane mixed at 50:1 ratio. Husqvarna and Echo oils have the best classification in the industry at a Jaso FD rating. Both manufacturer has their branded engineered fuel at 92+ octane (non ethanol ) and FD oil. True fuel is identical but at a better price point. If you intend to change the fuel ratio ( 40:1, 45:1, etc) then you will have to tune for that mixture. The more oil = leaner fuel mix and more heat! If you’re using 50:1 then fatten up the high jet a little and run it. I believe max rpm for the Husky 350 is 12000 rpm. Investing in a small digital tack is a must if you’re unsure of the saws high jet top speed. If you intend on storing your saw ,weed trimmer , blower etc run the TRUE FUEL through your equipment and put it away. Alcohol is the number one enemy!
If its lean it can and cold makes them run lean. I never had that problem though.
Yea I've run saws my whole life just not as much as most guys on here. Always looking for knowledge. Thanks LW.
Well just pay attention if its running too lean.
You might want a tach to set the H on the carb to the recommended rpm's
This. If it was me before I even considered running a after market cylinder I would chamfer the ports.
Most manufacturers have some kind of provision or recommendations when operating in cold weather or below a specific ambient temperature. Some older Stihl like my Stihl 034S have shutters in the cylinder covers to allow warm/ hot air into the air box as well as blanking adapter for the air inlets of the recoil housing. My older Stihl ms210 and the new ms250’s have a black removable piece behind the carburetor and under the plug that if removed and is inverted allows warm air to the carb in cold weather. I’m not familiar with the Echo saw but I’m sure they have cold weather recommendations. As to operating ANY saw in cold weather the saw should be started and allowed to warm up properly before going into the wood. If the piston and cylinder doesn’t warm up together you develop what is cold a “ cold scuffing “ where the piston and cylinder are actually out of round do to heat and expansion. I’m sure air density is a factor as well in cooler weather as is altitude and sea level with carburetor jet adjustment.
That's to keep the carb from icing and doesn't negate the need to tune the carb for cold weather.
Cooling effect doesnt happen "because gasoline is hitting the piston"....but "because residual/unburnt gasoline expands into the muffler".....
Yeah, and fatten it up to it sounds like its off a plug, borrowers deserve it.
And, friction is what causes the unwanted heat in the first place,
I always try and tune saws for others on a clod morning, that way they will be richer when the heat rises, and it helps to tune at lower altitude too, again as the altitude rises their saw will be even richer, its the best you can do for someone when your not right there where they are cutting. I would rather have too rich a tune than take a chance on a lean tune, most home owners or even farmers and ground workers here just grab a saw, they have not the slightest idea of then something is not right, they will hang onto it until it dies, its too late then.
Especially important if you are leaning on it hard in big stuff non stop.
Very generally!
