Walkerized? $?

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Methoss084

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What exactly is a Walkerized saw, and how much does it cost to have one done? I'm into the vintage stuff, so I'm trying to learn about the Hotsaw stuff now.
 
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Hi Methoss, Walkerizing cost me $200 Canadian on the 346XP. Quite the bargain really. I just got the saw and I`ve only made a few dozen cuts so I`m no expert, but the saw really gets up and talks. I expect it to get better of course as it becomes broken in and then I can readjust the carb. The basic Walkerized saw isn`t really a hotsaw, they`re more like the standard model on steroids. John tears them down and goes through everything that you see listed in a Madsen`s Powertune, but he also gets into the muffler and some moderately serious port tuning where he sees fit. The result for my saw is I can run a 20" bar with 3/8`s pitch chain buried in frozen hardwood, and stay right in the powerband nicely on a saw that hasn`t even consumed it`s first full tank of gas. The manufacturers specs say a 20" bar running .325 pitch is the max. I already know that I got my moneys worth from John. I think everyone should have at least one saw Walkerized, Greffardized, and Dunn. Russ
 
What do you get to do an 044?, I think my 075 would be a bit to old to even bother with ,LOL.
 
John,

Could you guys Walkerize my 3120? What kind of HP numbers are we talking about before and after? It's only got a couple of hours on it. Up here in the Northeast, I use my 266 SE for the usual stuff as I certainly don't run into big trees very much. I break out the big guy occasionally for stump work and such. To be honest, I traded an old and never used camera lens to a local Husky dealer for the 3120, even up, so it was effectively a freebee. I just wanted it to have the biggest Husky to shut my buddy up once and for all.

Thanks,
Doug
 
Hey Dbabcock, does your dealer have any more of those 3120's? I think I have an old Kodak Disc camera around here somewhere I could trade him:D
 
Huskyman,

LOL! I gotta tell ya, not being even close to the pro experience of 99% of you guys on this board, I've learned a lot from everyone. The humor involved is key to making this a fun learning experience for me. Yeah, it's absolutely true about the trade thing. I bought the lens along with a bunch of other camera junk from a old-timer about 15 years ago for $75.00. He just threw in the lens as I wasn't interested in it. I went into the dealer's this summer to get a couple of new chains for the 266 and he's talking to a friend at the counter with a couple of vintage cameras sitting there. I mentioned that I had this particular lens laying around somewhere and he got all excited. I brought it in the next day (after checking EBay, of course) and he said he'd trade me the equivalent in store merchandise for it, so we worked out a deal where I got the 3120. Up here, I guess they don't sell many of them and he had this one in stock and wanted to unload it. The rest is history. I've grown up with chainsaws all my life at our summer place up in Maine, but this one takes the cake. My 266 is a great general purpose saw, but this one's in a different league. As with most of my toys, the 3120's more than a little bit overkill.

Keep up the good work!
 
Doug, if you want overkill ship that 3120 to Ken Dunn and tell him to do it just like the one he has. A new carb, porting, cylinder head and cow's stomach exhaust pipe will really spell O-V-E-R-K-I-L-L
 
Husky,

I'd probably go ahead and do something like that if I didn't actually want to use it in the woods. No doubt guys like Ken and Dennis really know there stuff. Since my only knowlege of options in this regard is from the Madsens and Walkers web sites as well as threads like "Greffardized" here (where I actually learn more about you people than the topics, absolutely hilarious), I'm thinking that what I want is a saw that has noticeably more power, still mantains good reliability and isn't so fine-tuned that you have to re-jet the carb when the air temperature changes by 10 degrees F. I certainly understand that, within reason, an increase in power doesn't necessarily mean that you will take a major hit in reliability. I also suspect that at some increase in performance, you will end up with a saw that will spend more time in the shop than cutting wood. As I said, I won't use the saw professionally, so assuming that I run and take care of it like it should be, I would expect that with a given set of mods, it would be more reliable for me than for a pro who counted on it to put food on the table. Other than general mantainence, my 266 has never been apart since I bought it in 1987, and I use it from early spring till late fall, probably about an average of 5-10 hours a week.

So, given my background and conditions, if you wanted to still use the 3120 for woods work, what would you have done to it?
 
DB.."No doubt guys like Ken and Dennis really know there stuff."

That is a serious compliment to myself, and I thank you...but you should know Ken Dunn has probably forgotten more information than I know...everything that I have learned, I have learned from the master himself...I talk to him several times a week..(more like a day)...lol...with questions on certain things...and to talk about John L behind his back of course....
 
3120 mods

Hello DB,
As Smokey Yunick, the best ???? nascar mechanic there ever was used to say, If you've built the engine right and your ahead as you cross the finish line and the engine scatters you've built the engine just right.
I build chainsaw racing engines and modified fallers saws, and there are no reliability problems with either. The woods saws will outlast a stock saw. I've got one logging contractor that has 4 years service with a 371 husky and 2 years service with 2 372 huskys. uses them every day. if you port your motor properly and radius all the edges on your ports it will last longer on a woods saw than a stock saw.the only thing that fails on a husky is the big end rod bearing, whether its a stock or modified motor. if you run a good synthetic oil at 32-1 you can eleminate that problem also
dennis, thanks for the endorsement, yea, ill bet ol john lambert's are really ringing at times ha.ha.
ken
 
Hi dbabcock We can certinally help you out with a good reliable Walkerized saw but do you really need it. this saw has the power to cut most anything. I would recommend you pull out the muffler screen and drill the carb main jet up 2 drill sizes on a numbered drill set. This will make it run a little cooler with more fuel and will be a great saw for your usage.
We dyno runed our 3120 stock appearing hotsaw yesterday and got 11.5 Hp out of it. We only revved it to 13000.00 as the bar mounting we have is not that great for the 3120. If we could reach the max rpm i think we would see 3-4 more Hp. We tached the saw before hand and it hit 18000.00 rpm. Shes a screamer. Hopefully she holds out for competition at the clearwater revival LOL

John W
 
with all respect given ,id like to see that saw turn 18000.
but i want to watch from a distance.cant even imagine what it would sound like.later now
 
Thats fast alright. How about this, lot of topic, one of the diesel truck pulling teams gets alot of there motor support from the Michigan Cat dealer here in GR and I was talking to his brother in law. They have a 3406 CAT running at 6500RPM. Now as good of a motor as JW has there running at 18,000 thats fast but a diesel running at 6500 now thats way to fast. IF you look at percent increases from stock to modified.

The 3120 is running 35-45 % over stock
18000/13000(i guessed) *100


but the CAT is running 170 % over stock
6500/2400 * 100

That is just amazing to me. Being a person who someday hopes to be designing motors. I was amazed. Just thinkin about those massive crank and pistons going that fast is unbelievable.

But Otto will say that the ole Detriot Two Stoke Diesels were better.
 
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