aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
t_andersen said:
I recomend this book for beginers as well. Shop amazon, B&N, and other internet book sites. I picked mine up for only $30.
Wanting to start milling
- Thread starter 00juice
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I recomend this book for beginers as well. Shop amazon, B&N, and other internet book sites. I picked mine up for only $30.
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Welcome to AS 00juice and treeclimb1. There is a wealth of knowledge here so grab a 6'er of you favorite cold ones and start reading from the top
Feel free to ask anything but beware of the trolls.:notrolls2:
Feel free to ask anything but beware of the trolls.:notrolls2:
00juice
ArboristSite Operative
Mill Size
Being that I have an 066 is it reasonable, maybe not perfect, reasonable to have a 42" bar and a 36" mill. Also, according to some info I saw somewhere, a 36" mill should have 80-90 cc's. And 20 cc's more if using a double ended bar. obviously my saw won't hit 110 cc's mark to have a 36" mill and double ended bar. Rambling on a bit, but. Can I put a 42" double ended bar on my 066 with a 36" mill and not destroy my saw?
Thanks,
Brian
Being that I have an 066 is it reasonable, maybe not perfect, reasonable to have a 42" bar and a 36" mill. Also, according to some info I saw somewhere, a 36" mill should have 80-90 cc's. And 20 cc's more if using a double ended bar. obviously my saw won't hit 110 cc's mark to have a 36" mill and double ended bar. Rambling on a bit, but. Can I put a 42" double ended bar on my 066 with a 36" mill and not destroy my saw?
Thanks,
Brian
Sure you can. Ive been thinking about getting a 42" bar for my 660. That way I can use all of my 36" mill.
Carvingmark uses a 42" bar on his 395. And those two saws are right next to each other in the cut.
Carvingmark uses a 42" bar on his 395. And those two saws are right next to each other in the cut.
thompson1600
ArboristSite Guru
the 066 will pull a big bar, however, I find that for most of my milling I use a 20" bar on my 066. Unless you are cutting some really big trees, most of your milling will be either edging cant's or cutting the can't into lumber (unless your doing through and through milling). The reason I stick to the shorter bars, I have a 16", a 20" and a 25" that is used occasionally. I also have a 36" for the 066 I can use on a big stump or burl, but that is really rare.
The other reason I like shorter bars (and you can still get a 36" Alaskan mill and use a short bar) is that it's a lot less sharpening in the field. I can run full comp chain (smoother cut) and still use a file to sharpen every few cuts pretty quickly.
I know there is a debate about short or long bars. Just thought I would let you know you can run shorter bars and still mill. With a 20" bar on an Alaskan mill I can still get almost an 18" wide cut. I don't get many trees that can be cut into an 18" wide cant. Those are some wide boards.
The other reason I like shorter bars (and you can still get a 36" Alaskan mill and use a short bar) is that it's a lot less sharpening in the field. I can run full comp chain (smoother cut) and still use a file to sharpen every few cuts pretty quickly.
I know there is a debate about short or long bars. Just thought I would let you know you can run shorter bars and still mill. With a 20" bar on an Alaskan mill I can still get almost an 18" wide cut. I don't get many trees that can be cut into an 18" wide cant. Those are some wide boards.
00juice
ArboristSite Operative
double powerheads
Just sort of curious about running double powerheads. I've seen mention of it in this message forum. Do both powerheads have to be teh same model/size. Do they need to be synchonized some how. If they are not perfectly synchronized, couldn't they start to fight each other, and put lots of strain on the powerheads. Any thoughts?
Brian
Just sort of curious about running double powerheads. I've seen mention of it in this message forum. Do both powerheads have to be teh same model/size. Do they need to be synchonized some how. If they are not perfectly synchronized, couldn't they start to fight each other, and put lots of strain on the powerheads. Any thoughts?
Brian
00juice
ArboristSite Operative
Buying a Granberg
Hi all.
I'm ready to buy a granberg mill. I'll be using my 066 and figured i'd go for the 36" mill. A couple questions before I buy. Is it worth having the double-end bar and end handle. Right-tool.com has the kit: 44" double end bar, 36" mill, slabbing brackets, oiler, double-end bar helper handle, ripping chain and chain grinder for $530. The bar is accounting $225 of that setup price. Should I consider it, or should i be just fine with a regular bar. If I'm getting a bar to maximize the 36" mill, should I stick to a 36" bar, or should I go a little larger to say 42"? I have some big pieces of cherry that I want to make some table tops from. Right now, the bar I have is a 36", but it is bent, and will need to be replaced. Does anyone have a preference toward stihl bars over aftermarket. What brand would you all recommend. I'm trying to keep things as cheap as possible, but I do want to get the most from the mill. I have never done any milling and have never seen anyone do it. Suggestions now would be greatly appreciated. I hope to place my order tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks
Brian
Hi all.
I'm ready to buy a granberg mill. I'll be using my 066 and figured i'd go for the 36" mill. A couple questions before I buy. Is it worth having the double-end bar and end handle. Right-tool.com has the kit: 44" double end bar, 36" mill, slabbing brackets, oiler, double-end bar helper handle, ripping chain and chain grinder for $530. The bar is accounting $225 of that setup price. Should I consider it, or should i be just fine with a regular bar. If I'm getting a bar to maximize the 36" mill, should I stick to a 36" bar, or should I go a little larger to say 42"? I have some big pieces of cherry that I want to make some table tops from. Right now, the bar I have is a 36", but it is bent, and will need to be replaced. Does anyone have a preference toward stihl bars over aftermarket. What brand would you all recommend. I'm trying to keep things as cheap as possible, but I do want to get the most from the mill. I have never done any milling and have never seen anyone do it. Suggestions now would be greatly appreciated. I hope to place my order tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks
Brian
dustytools
Addicted to ArboristSite
I believe that if you buy the rest of the stuff that is included in the package separately with out the bar you would still be around the $530. Trust me, the bar that comes with the set-up is a very good, heavy duty bar that is already drilled for the auxillary oiler and ready to go. I think that you will be pleased if you decide to go with the set-up
00juice
ArboristSite Operative
granberg
Dusty,
Do you use the extra handle for then end very often? Is it helpful?
Brian
Dusty,
Do you use the extra handle for then end very often? Is it helpful?
Brian
dustytools
Addicted to ArboristSite
No I dont use it as I am a one man operation. The only purpose that it serves for me is something for the chain to turn on. BTW if you do decide to buy your bar separately they have a 44 inch titanium bar on ebay under stihl chainsaws on about the fourth page for around $77 plus about $16 shipping. I cant remember what brand it is.
00juice
ArboristSite Operative
thanks
Thanks,
I'll check it out
brian
Thanks,
I'll check it out
brian
dustytools
Addicted to ArboristSite
The bar is a GB brand bar and it has a $80 buy it now price tag plus the shipping.
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