what do I need

[joshlw]

well by day I'm a lineman and have been for 10 years and have developed a interest in cutting and clibing trees. My question is what do I need to purchase for tree climbing. I already have my hooks . Just needing and Idea on ropes, harness,# of carabinas, descenders, and etc. Any input would be greatly apprec.
Thanks

 

[safeT1st]

Easy as Pie

Just google WesSpur , a distributor out of Bellingham Wa. They have a catalogue that details everything you need to get off on the right foot. I would suggest you also get a hold of the climbing videos by Arbormaster , detailed at back of catalogue(libraries have them to borrow) . Most importantly , take your time before buying . Ask questions here but make them specific . There is more tree swinging knowledge up here than you could shake a stick at . Good luck and welcome abooard .

 

[gremlin]

you will need to change the spikes on your gaffs. lineman spikes are too short. esp in NC with all the pine. good luck welcome to the site

 

[ropensaddle]

The tree climbers companion, Ansi standards and better to work with
a pro for sometime.

 

[md_tree_dood]

You'll get tons of opinions on what type of line to buy and harnesses and such. The type of line you use should be purchased in conjunction with how you plan on climbing, ie closed vs open system, mechanical vs non mechanical. Sherrill has a rope guide in their catalog which should help. As far as saddles, thats personal prefrence, I like the Glide by Buckingham but its pretty expensive if you're just starting out and aren't sure you're going to be doing alot of climbing, weaver is a cheaper way to go but not as good in my opinion.

If you bought my setup, you'd have to buy:

Saddle
Eye to Eye (I'm using a tenex right now)
Micro Pulley
Dog Snap (preference but not necessary)
2 carabiners (buy a third so you can double crotch)
Safety lanyard (microscender or grillion would be good choices)
eye wear
helmet

I'm climbing on an XTC line currently but will probably go with Velocity Hot or Blaze with my next line (11mm) both are good choices for mechanical ascenders and very good for footlocking.

If you climb with a Blakes hitch instead you can cut out two of the carabiners, buy a snap instead and cut out the micro pulley, tenex and dog snap since you'll be using the rope for your hitch

 

[beowulf343]

If you climb with a Blakes hitch instead you can cut out two of the carabiners, buy a snap instead and cut out the micro pulley, tenex and dog snap since you'll be using the rope for your hitch

Keep the biners, dog snap, and micro pulley, cut a few feet off the end of your rope, and use it as a split tail with your blakes.

Saddle
Eye to Eye (I'm using a tenex right now)
Micro Pulley
Dog Snap (preference but not necessary)
2 carabiners (buy a third so you can double crotch)
Safety lanyard (microscender or grillion would be good choices)
eye wear
helmet

I am curious about one thing on this list. What are you using the dog snap for? If you are using an eye to eye, it's easier to put your micro pulley right on the biner. Keeps it closer to your hitch.

 

[Adkpk]

Just google WesSpur , a distributor out of Bellingham Wa. They have a catalogue that details everything you need to get off on the right foot. Good luck and welcome abooard .

Hey, did ya see that new catalog. I didn't think the descriptions were great but definitely got some inventory.

Good luck getting it together, josh, welcome to the site.

 

[pdqdl]

Even though you didn't ask about technique, I suggest that you spend more time learning about how to make the cuts, manage the wood, and do the right kind of work to the tree. A great place to start would be to learn how to climb without the spurs.

Hooking up the tree is the easy part, particularly if you are accustomed to climbing utility poles. The hazards from tree climbing are almost completely different from being a lineman.

If you are an experienced lineman, I imagine you have some pretty good sense about not getting hurt. A reckless, dumb linemen doesn't survive very long, do they?

 

[joshlw]

Even though you didn't ask about technique, I suggest that you spend more time learning about how to make the cuts, manage the wood, and do the right kind of work to the tree. A great place to start would be to learn how to climb without the spurs.

Hooking up the tree is the easy part, particularly if you are accustomed to climbing utility poles. The hazards from tree climbing are almost completely different from being a lineman.

If you are an experienced lineman, I imagine you have some pretty good sense about not getting hurt. A reckless, dumb linemen doesn't survive very long, do they?

Yea, You are correct on that reckless and dumb lineman part. Thanks for all the input I have started compiling my list, but the tree climbers manual you all reccommened is already on it's way to me. I'm sure I'll be posting all kind of dumb questions in the future.
Thanks
Josh

 

[ClimbinArbor]

Even though you didn't ask about technique, I suggest that you spend more time learning about how to make the cuts, manage the wood, and do the right kind of work to the tree. A great place to start would be to learn how to climb without the spurs.

Hooking up the tree is the easy part, particularly if you are accustomed to climbing utility poles. The hazards from tree climbing are almost completely different from being a lineman.

If you are an experienced lineman, I imagine you have some pretty good sense about not getting hurt. A reckless, dumb linemen doesn't survive very long, do they?

spurs for removals only, it is amzing how many outfits just hook right up a tree. some dont know better, some just dont care.

 

[ropensaddle]

Yea, You are correct on that reckless and dumb lineman part. Thanks for all the input I have started compiling my list, but the tree climbers manual you all reccommened is already on it's way to me. I'm sure I'll be posting all kind of dumb questions in the future.
Thanks
Josh

Dumb questions are the ones not asked you are starting right

 

[md_tree_dood]

Beowulf:

I use the dog snap for two reasons. One, it makes it easier to setup the system, not much but a little, and two, I prefer the pulley to be separated from the hitch when not in use. It's a few inches more travel when tending slack but it also rises further on your final pull. It's a preference thing

 

[masterarbor]

spurs for removals only, it is amzing how many outfits just hook right up a tree. some dont know better, some just dont care.

thank you for pointing that out. the last thing we need in this industry is another guy with a pair of hooks turning the tree into a pin cushion. i welcome and applaud you in your interest in arboriculture, but learn arboriculture and the appropriate climbing techniques first, then start up the trees. knowing how to use hooks doesn't make someone qualified to do tree work. unless you just want to do removals, you'd better learn correct climbing technique. even then, removals are dangerous and require technical rigging skills. i recommend dragging brush for a certified arborist and working your way up the ladder. good luck.

 

[sawinredneck]

The tree climbers companion, Ansi standards and better to work with
a pro for sometime.

+1!!!!

The tree climber companion is a MUST have!!! Learning to climb on you're own is VERY hard, trust me!! If you can donate some labor and work with a company/climber you will learn a lot faster, easier, and safer. I can read a book on knots all day, but having someone there to show me gets me going a lot faster. I had a heck of a time learning footlocking!!
Keep the gear simple right now, stick with a Blakes or a VT and forget about the micro-pulley/hitch tender systems. It's costly and makes it even more frustrating to learn. Get the basics down, THEN look at what would make an improvment for you're style.
I climb on Arborplex, it's hatted by most, it's cheap and wears like a mother, but it's slick. I use a beeline split tail for my hitch, the Arborplex on Arborplex hitch wasn't working to well for me, I'm big, and it's slick.
One 'Biner, and a Buckingham saddle. It's inexpensive, but I find it comfortable and it fits me nicely.
If you have a Vermeer store near they carry or can get anything Sherril has and you can try it beore you buy it. That is VERY important with a saddle!!!
And yes, get some new gaffs for climbing, and only use gaffs for TAKE DOWNS!!!
You will also want a bull rope for rigging and lowering.
You can expect a minimum of $400 to get set up, WITHOUT gaffs.
Good luck, and be careful!!! The best advice I got was "Slow and low" when learning!

 

[2FatGuys]

Yea, You are correct on that reckless and dumb lineman part. Thanks for all the input I have started compiling my list, but the tree climbers manual you all reccommened is already on it's way to me. I'm sure I'll be posting all kind of dumb questions in the future.
Thanks
Josh

Where are you in NC? There are a lot of NC guys on here that might be able to show you a few things and may even give an opportunity for you to work along side them and learn

 

[Nailsbeats]

Hey Josh, I am a tree guy and was a lineman, so I know the deal.

Climbing trees with spikes is harder than climbing poles, but not too bad. You just can't maintain perfect form all the time like you can on a straight pole.

Learn to rope climb (spikeless), I just did after years on spikes and I find it to be easier in a lot of trees. I mean shoot a line to the top of the tree, tie in, and hump it up past all the parts of the tree that would have been a pain on spikes. You also don't the spikes on your legs weighing your legs down and making some movements tough. Rope climbing requires more upper body, but if you are conditioned, it's not harder.

I put the spikes on 2 days ago on a removal, I really notice how much they get in the way at times.

Good luck and get to work. Out.