What do you do to make starting the splitter easier during cold temperatures?

[wdchuck]

We have a short coldsnap the next couple of days, and I have a splitting/stacking job to do for a customer. Since my splitter usually takes so many pulls to get started that I need a 10 minute break to catch my breath while it runs and warms up I though I'd go through it to see if my maintenance was lacking.
Well, the only thing I came up with was the flywheel having some rust on the outer surface, so the drill-mounted wire wheel made short work of the rust and it was all shiny clean, next it received a good coating of dielectric grease before putting it all back together.

Started on the second pull. Yeeha.

Tomorrow morning when its 32* it should take less than the usual 20 pulls at that temperature.

At home I could put a salamander heater on it or dipstick element in the hydraulic tank, but in the field, no such methods available.



So, what do you guys do to make your splitter start easy in cold/winter temps?



.

 

[wdchuck]

Hey, anyone have a way to run a dipstick heater while travelling?

Is the amp draw too high for an inverter?

 

[TreePointer]

Splitter resides in heated garage (365 days/year) until I'm ready to use it. I usually don't move it more than 500 yards to use it.

 

[lfnh]

Lot of govenors keep throttle plate wide open even when the
throttle lever is moved to "slow".

Older briggs or kohler, choke on, and barely crack the throttle plate.
Sometimes this means holding the thottle nearly closed by hand.

fwiw

 

[flewism]

First off small engines need to be in good tune for extreme cold weather starting. I don't consider 32° extreme cold. All my small engines sit in a unheated pole barn all year round. I have in the past pulled the splitter to the front garage to warn the hydraulic oil up for easier starting. My experiences have been numerous days of 10° weather to require that. I do own a magnetic block heater similar to this one that I bought for the tractor but it does work on my splitter tank also.
http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/magnetic_block_heaters_mh1153_3953_prd1.htm

And this one at 200 watts could be run with a power inverter

 

[Steve NW WI]

I just plug mine in

Sounds like maybe you've got a wee bit weak spark, check that your plug gap is not too big, beyond that I ain't a lot of help.

 

[tex]

ether

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Synthetic oil in the engine has made a big difference for me.

 

[Circle B MN]

32 seems to be a bit "warm" yet to be having too much trouble starting engines....

 

[sbhooper]

You will notice a vast difference if you use synthetic lubricants in the engine and also the hydraulic system if you do lots of cold-weather work.

 

[2FatGuys]

Proper spark and proper fuel/air mix should fire fairly easily. If you are having problems, as stated above, check plug condition / gap, throttle plate position, and also check spark directly from coil / magneto.

 

[osujake]

My splitter has a hydraulic pump disengage lever fro easier starting when cold. When engaged you are turning engine and pump so in the cold starts are easier when not pulling against cold hydraulic fluid.

 

[atlarge54]

My older 8 hp Tecumseh is pretty cold blooded. In the winter I use a propane torch to heat the intake manifold and also warm the intake valve area. If not I'd never have enough strength to do the splitting. The lighter weight oil in the winter does help.

 

[pipehead]

ether

Careful with the ether. Theres been more than one blown engine because of it. Use very sparingly.

 

[Somesawguy]

Make sure the choke is closing well. There is always the ether or gas in the spark plug hole trick.

 

[Larryofmichigan]

Another cold engine trick

What I've been doing for the past several years is similar to the gas-in-the-spark-plu-hole trick, but easier and faster.

This is for my Briggs and Stratten with a choke:
Remove plug wire from spark plug (or eliminate spark with switch or whatever your engine has), put choke on all the way, and pretend like you're startng by pulling hard on pull-cord 5 or so times. Next, keeping choke on, hook spark plug wire back up, and proceed to start engine.

If you don't have a choke, I would imagine that however you normally start engine will be similar. ie remove spark, pull about 5 times, reattach spark, and then start engine.

I'm told this is similar with how cold race car engines are started.

Another thing i've noticed over the years is that some engines flood easily, and some need lots of gas and don't flood. You need to become familiar with how your engine reacts, and proceed accordingly.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Most choke valves have a hole in them, either JB weld it shut or block the hole off with a screw. This will reduce your #of choke pulls.
As mentioned, use either synthetic in the crankcase or a low viscosity dino oil.
Also, make sure your pull cord is max length so you can really get behind it.
One degree of frost is not very cold.
John

 

[leon]

cold woodsplitter ugh!, BRRRRR!!!!

I carry my salamander and generator everywhere if i need it as it keeps me warm while working too.


Our Coleman Powermate is small and easy to start and i take it every where I need power and it is not very heavy as far as lifting it on the back of a pick up.


I use my kerosene salamander on my processor the year round, and I just sit back and wait and I am able to stay much warmer with the salamander while working


Another option is SAE 10 wieght motor oil-no blends!!!


You may need a new plug and coil the but set the new spark plug gap at 25 thousandths and fire away.

As you have a B+S it would be worth your while to buy a new coil and replace the old one as soon as is possible.

Changing the coil is easy as it is exposed and the top flap of the box that the coil comes in is the proper thickness required for the magnet gap to provide the high voltage power for the coil.

Briggs and Stratton is very good about a quick turnaround for shipping parts from the home office-I have had parts

in three day to four days whem ordered by phone.


Be sure to write down the all numbers on the engine air cowling to provide the operator to order the proper coil.

 

[wdchuck]

This morning it was mid 30*s on site, and it was near 40 pulls making sure each time the piston was at top center before it finally started. That is a workout since the hydraulic pump is in the equation.

For the rest of the day, it started during the first pull.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[dingeryote]

I keep the hydro tank at 3/4 full and add several quarts of ATF to the universal hydro to thin it out for winter use, as it warms up quicker.

5w-30 Synthetic really makes a difference.
Auto value brand oils are rebadged Valvoline and VERY affordable.

I HATE Honda. I HATE everything Honda.
But dang if thier GX series motors wont start on the first or second pull when it's zero, and ya have to to knock a foot of snow off the recoil to find the pull handle.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote