What do you do with old chains?

[olympyk_999]

Using Stihl chains on my 18" Stihl bar. I tighten the chain enough that you can still pull about 3/8" of slack on the bottom side, so I don't think I am over tightening the chain. Maybe not getting enough oil?

you using the right drive link chain?
the bar should have drive link requirement stamped into it...sounds like your chain is too long to begin with...
I run 24 inch bars that require 84 DL chain, some other brands require 81 DL for the same size bar...

 

[Philbert]

Aggressive cutting, with low depth gauges, may also contribute to 'stretching' of the chain.

Philbert

 

[wat648]

Aggressive cutting, with low depth gauges, may also contribute to 'stretching' of the chain.

Philbert

I believe that may be a lot of my problem! Didn't really think of that, until you mentioned it.
I get pretty aggressive with lowering the depth gauges on the chain. I will pay more attention to that on this new chain and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks for all the advice guys/gals. Appreciate it.

 

[EXCALIBER]

I never had a problem with stretching chains until I bought bigger saws. When I went from 55cc Husky to 80cc Dolmar the added torque seems to stretch chains at an increased rate. Not sure what size saws most of you are running? Second thing I noticed was the 24inch bar on my Dolmar 7900 calls for 84 links but the tensioner is already at the halfway point with that setup. If I take one link out I cannot mount the chain for it being too short. So I wait until it stretches then remove one link and that solves the problem. I am running the woodland pro chain but also tried one Stihl chain but DAM $30 plus dollars for one chain. Thought I was at the proctologists office again!!!

 

[CR888]

l notice Oregon chain stretches more out of the name brand chains, the chinese stuff can stretch out of pitch before you have used up a quarter of the cutters.lol.Stihl is darn pricey chain and is too dear to run commercially here if you rely on paying retail for it but l bought a good amount of stihl chain from the US and it is a pleasure to go back to using after running carlton, oregon, gb evo11, bylink, trilink and a few others. Chrome does not scrape off the top of the cutters, stretch in not really an issue, stays sharp and don't break into pieces when you hit something bad. I really like the geometry of some of oregons new offerings in smaller size chain, it cuts well. Philbert mentioned a good point about small chains compared to long chains with regard to stretch...very true.

 

[Philbert]

STIHL claims that their chains are 'pre-stretched' at the factory. I am not sure exactly what this means. Anybody know?

Philbert

 

[Deleted member 83629]

STIHL claims that their chains are 'pre-stretched' at the factory. I am not sure exactly what this means. Anybody know?

Philbert

All STIHL OILOMATIC® saw chain is pre-stretched before leaving the factory. This helps eliminate excessive chain stretching during break-in period, and reduces maintenance time and component wear.

 

[Philbert]

All STIHL OILOMATIC® saw chain is pre-stretched before leaving the factory.

But what does this mean? Do they hook it up between a couple of cylinders and yank on it? Run it across some tight rollers? If 'stretch' is really enlargement of the holes, do they just make them larger, or chamfer the edges of the holes, or . . . ?

Philbert

 

[Deleted member 83629]

But what does this mean? Do they hook it up between a couple of cylinders and yank on it? Run it across some tight rollers? If 'stretch' is really enlargement of the holes, do they just make them larger, or chamfer the edges of the holes, or . . . ?

Philbert

Following assembly, an initial load is applied to the chain using rollers and moderate heat, which is called a pre-load. This loading approximates the recommended maximum loading in service and is done to align the various chain components such as pins, bushings, and link plates

 

[blkcloud]

I saw some guys on TV taking old chain.. Melting it into a blob and hammering a knife blade out of it..

 

[msmith]

They seem to make great knives. Haven't tried one yet.

https://www.google.com/search?q=cha...2&ved=0ahUKEwii-uyPldDJAhVGaz4KHfJdDBIQsAQIGw

Was going to say the same thing. They make a rather interesting looking Damascus.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Happens to me on bigger saws with bigger bars. MS660 with a 36 inch bar will run out the adjuster fairly quickly. Doesn't help that Stihl sells 115 DL and another that one link different. I always look for the lesser of the 2 now unless it's a screaming deal.

 

[Deleted member 83629]

my 365 with a 24 calls for 3/8 84dl chain if you buy a 3/8 84dl chain in stihl it is for a 25'' bar.

 

[esshup]

I'm like most here, never had that problem and I run up to 104 DL.

My saws are set to have a little bit of oil left in them when I run out of fuel, but not anywhere near enough to keep cutting with just adding fuel. Fuel and oil at the same time.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I ran into this problem a few years back with my MS361 while running a 20" bar with a 7-pin rim sprocket. My solution was to install an 8-pin rim sprocket. That worked. Yes, I lost a little grunt, but it was hardly noticeable. Eventually that chain was gone, and then I switched back to the 7-pin rim for newer chains. Some guys run an 8-pin rim all the time.

 

[Philbert]

My solution was to install an 8-pin rim sprocket

Simple, elegant solution for those saws with a rim sprocket.

Philbert

 

[sb47]

Since I have become a member here, I have learned to hand sharpen my chains, which is good, except now, I will stretch the chain before I ever use up the chain, plenty of tooth left. Surely I am not the only one with this issue and was wondering what you all did with your stretched chains, I.e. Throw away, take a link out or another use?

What brand of chain are you using?
The most common reason a chain stretches, is because of heat buildup.
When a chain gets dull, or the rakers are not set at the proper depth, it will make the chain get hot, witch causes it to stretch.
Once I learned to keep the chain sharp and stop cutting as soon as it gets dull and resharpen it before it can get hot on you, will stop it from stretching.
Also the heat will take the temper out of the teeth and they will dull very fast, once that happens.
Or the heat will make the steel to get hard, like glass and be very hard to sharpen.
There are times I don't even get through a tank of gas before it gets dull and I have to stop to resharpen.
Once I learned these technique's, I can use a chain till the teeth get so small the start to break off.
I have also discovered a chain that has small teethe will cut better then a new one will.
Try keeping the chain sharp at all times and stop when they get dull.
Hope that will help you get better life from your chains.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I saw some guys on TV taking old chain.. Melting it into a blob and hammering a knife blade out of it..

Huh. I just threw out 3 loops of .404 harvester. Crazy how I went almost 3 years, well over 1200 cords on those 3 loops, and I killed them on a load of logs that was full of gravel in a matter of 3 days. I had to sharpen 7 or 8 times on a single cord. Normally I can get 8-10 cords on a sharpening.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I've been accused of being a garbage collector when it comes to old chains. Several loggers that file sharpen their chains around here never drop the depth gauges down. So, they give them to me when they start throwing powder after a cutter sharpening. I take those long throwaways (often 114 DLs) and make smaller loops for my firewood saws and then drop the depth gauges as needed. Most of the time I get four to five more sharpenings before the cutters are finally gone.

 

[wat648]

Update: I have taken a lot of the advice from this post and chains are lasting much longer now. I am not taking near as much off the rakers and I am letting the saw do more of the work, instead of pushing the saw through the cuts. Thanks again for the advice. This site is full of good of useful information.