Nothing wrong with looking at the used saw market, I've gotten some pretty good saws for less than $100. You could easily buy 2 saws for what one new one would cost..
What do you guys think of the Stihl MS 250?
- Thread starter EasyT
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Easy T where are you located in north florida? if your shy to say simply send a pm
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would put (from the dealer should be no cost swap) Stihl 3/8" LP bar & chain (Stihl PM) with no longer than an 18" bar. If you need the occasional 20" just cut from both sides. This setup should work fine. Just remember to keep the chain sharp!
BTW, this is a 45cc saw and with the 3/8" LP chain it should cut about even with a MS260/261. I don't understand why Stihl puts a 0.325" setup on these as default.
Agree with this. Should run 3/8 18” no problem, the saw puts out decent power. I’ve always liked the little 250 for some reason.
I have an ms250, that I used around the sawmill.
I like it pretty well until the wood is over 16" then it really stinks.
Air filtration is also very poor on these saws, after a few hours of cutting it just about quits because the tiny filter is plugged.
I also have to recommend echo for the op's needs.
I like it pretty well until the wood is over 16" then it really stinks.
Air filtration is also very poor on these saws, after a few hours of cutting it just about quits because the tiny filter is plugged.
I also have to recommend echo for the op's needs.
while the 250 handles nicely and has decent power, it vibrates too much (crappy antivibe), is cheaply built overall, has a cheesy air filter and throttle linkage, is a ridiculously hard pullstart for a little saw, and is severely overpriced.
but it works. I guess.
but it works. I guess.
I have an 025 which is an older version of the 250. It's a good performing saw for a homeowner saw. The air filter isn't as good as modern saws but mine's not clogged.
I would not switch it to 3/8. It will cut slower as the kerf is wider than .325.
I have an 18" bar on it and that's the longest I'd put on it. You can cut down a tree with a bar that's shorter than the tree diameter. But I would not want to cut and buck many trees over 18" with my 025. I'd use a larger saw for that.
Go get a tape and measure the bases of some trees like what you'd be cutting. Even though I worked measuring trees for a while I find it hard to estimate by eye.
I would not switch it to 3/8. It will cut slower as the kerf is wider than .325.
I have an 18" bar on it and that's the longest I'd put on it. You can cut down a tree with a bar that's shorter than the tree diameter. But I would not want to cut and buck many trees over 18" with my 025. I'd use a larger saw for that.
Go get a tape and measure the bases of some trees like what you'd be cutting. Even though I worked measuring trees for a while I find it hard to estimate by eye.
I think that was a suggestion for the small 3/8 (lopro, pico, whatever) which is exactly what should be on the 250, imo.
ps, the dolmar 420, 421, makita 4300 puts the 250 right back in the truck...
ps, the dolmar 420, 421, makita 4300 puts the 250 right back in the truck...
EasyT
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for all the sound advice. I welcome more, but I think what I'll do is get the Stihl 250. I think I can fill up the rest of my half-full wood shed with smaller stuff, something the 250 should be able to handle, then next year add a bigger machine for bigger trees.
Only thing I don't like about the 250 is all the people who say it's hard to start.
By the way, an earlier post talked about the sound a certain chainsaw makes. I think that's hilarious. Reminds me of my Harley buddies. Me too. When I buy exhausts for my Harleys, sound plays a pretty big part, never thought about that applying to chainsaws too.
Only thing I don't like about the 250 is all the people who say it's hard to start.
By the way, an earlier post talked about the sound a certain chainsaw makes. I think that's hilarious. Reminds me of my Harley buddies. Me too. When I buy exhausts for my Harleys, sound plays a pretty big part, never thought about that applying to chainsaws too.
Attachments
EasyT
ArboristSite Lurker
My 250 starts just fine.... 2 or 3 pulls when it's cold, 1 after it worms up.
There is the ms251 with spring anti vibe and stratified fuel / air technology. Both can use 6 or 7 tooth drive in the picco or 3/8lp. The ms250 must have some reason it is still around.
If you've never run a pro saw you don't know what you are missing...
Good idea. Why didn't I think of that.
Truer words were never spoken. That's why I stil own my Stihl MS361, 028 Wood Boss, and 026 PRO (listed larger to smaller). But today, I ran my Husqvarna 353 and 257 to cut a full truckload of hardwood rounds. My much newer MS251C that I bought at an estate sale remained on the shelf. So I must confess that on occasion I am a turncoat.
A 353 runs very close to a prosaw, and handles identically and is built identically. Currently I have the Echo cs590 and the jonny 2152 on the quad for firewood duty. Neither one can be compared in any way, stretch, or form to a ms250.
I agree. I just don't like the plastic clamshell homeowner saws. I sold the ones I had except for my little echo 352. I use it for limbing because it's so light. I bought my first saw in 86, it's still running strong today. I've rebuilt the carb once, fuel line once, crank seals once and spark plug 3 times. I can't see any of these plastic crankcase saws lasting near that long.
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
My father has one of them Stihl's, its a ripper, but I would put any similar sized Echo streets ahead of it, the Echo will always start, has better air filter too, I have read of more people having starting issues with the 250 than any other saw, its your money though.
the ms250 is 460.00 in Canada. 
