What fuel mix ratio best for M-tronic saws?

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Buddy has a 461 he bought new pretty much when they came out that's been run at 50:1 it's whole life... thousands of hours on it as he runs a removal business. No issues. That's plenty of service life. Several lifetimes for average cutters.

Also, I have 250k miles on my Toyota Corolla...same transmission fluid...Pretty sure I'll get 300k+. Oil changed at manufacturers recommended 10k miles with 0W-20 which is like water. Not a single drive train failure. Again...perfectly acceptable service life. I think you ask anyone if 300k miles is a solid life out of a $23k vehicle, they'll say yeah.

All anecdotal evidence and obviously means nothing to you...but if 50:1 is good enough for thousands of hours of commercial work, it's plenty good enough for me. If it was blowing up saws or reducing service life significantly, we would be hearing about it a lot more than we are. IMO.

Hey whatever works for ya. Murphy often sits on my shoulder just waiting to hit me on the head. When it is my equipment and wallet on the line I will go the extra mile and spend the very few pennies it costs to make sure the lube and oil changes are taken care of to my liking. All manufacturers love to sell new stuff, be it parts or product. I have seen first hand what can happen the when the lubrication aspect is not up to snuff.
 
There are all sorts of reported bearing failures in strato saws due to the heavier piston, lesser amounts of mix flowing through the crankcase, and a general lack of oil. When I dig into them, there is no excess oil anywhere in the bottom end.
A 461 being a traditional scavenging motor won’t see these issues if tuned on the rich side.
I get quite a few 7900’s and 034/6 with case bearing failures. All run on 50:1.
And yet some people never learn.
 
Buddy has a 461 he bought new pretty much when they came out that's been run at 50:1 it's whole life... thousands of hours on it as he runs a removal business. No issues. That's plenty of service life. Several lifetimes for average cutters.

Also, I have 250k miles on my Toyota Corolla...same transmission fluid...Pretty sure I'll get 300k+. Oil changed at manufacturers recommended 10k miles with 0W-20 which is like water. Not a single drive train failure. Again...perfectly acceptable service life. I think you ask anyone if 300k miles is a solid life out of a $23k vehicle, they'll say yeah.

All anecdotal evidence and obviously means nothing to you...but if 50:1 is good enough for thousands of hours of commercial work, it's plenty good enough for me. If it was blowing up saws or reducing service life significantly, we would be hearing about it a lot more than we are. IMO.
Not many people will advise you to go against what the manufacturer says,
but that’s because they don’t want you singing in their ear when something non
oil related breaks their saw, the adviser will be the first in line, except when
it’s Stihl, because you won’t be able to get to them, you will get customer
services, or corporate, and will soon go away.
I have seen 1,000 ooo Miles on engines, and all due to more frequent oil changes.
I know whose philosophy I would follow.
 
"Residual oil" is the lifeblood of a 2 stroke.

Tearing the engine down for inspection is the only way to have a clue what you are talking about on this oil ratio subject. Doing inspections before and after various ratios and oils are used under different conditions completes the education.

All oils are different (and annoyingly, sometimes companies change their formulations significantly without changing the label on the bottle significantly)

Anyhoo, :popcorn2:
 
My vote 40 to 1 synthetic or 28 to 1 non synthetic which the latter has been most of my saws primary diet.
I keep 50 to 1 synthetic mix for my 4 mix power pruners and use it where new saw warranties apply, and when i work on someone elses saw that uses 50 to 1. Frequently i get a saw or other 2 cycle that will not open open up enough on carb adjustments to run the 28 to 1 so then again i use the 50 to 1.
Nonsynthetic was $4 a quart last i remember ( Champion air cooled formula) which transalates to $avings and for dcades it worked without problems for me. I keep my carb adjustments fine tuned and air filters get cleaned as needed.
If i find a good enough deal on synthetic i would likely go to 40 to 1 vs 28 to 1. If i was making big bucks with, and running newer more expensive saws I'd lkely switch .
All in all more lubrication is better as long as it burns reasonably clean. Lack of maintnence and tuning causes more of the carbon and smoke issues from what i have seen. Lots of people that neglect maintnence will have less carbon issues with 50 to 1.
As far as auto tune and mtronic i don't know how they adjust to more oil.
 
"Residual oil" is the lifeblood of a 2 stroke.

Tearing the engine down for inspection is the only way to have a clue what you are talking about on this oil ratio subject. Doing inspections before and after various ratios and oils are used under different conditions completes the education.

All oils are different (and annoyingly, sometimes companies change their formulations significantly without changing the label on the bottle significantly)

Anyhoo, :popcorn2:
That’s the truth.
Am all for a window in the bottom end so I can see what oil settles
after a days work.
Maybe the porters will one day offer this feature for true peace of mind.
 
"Residual oil" is the lifeblood of a 2 stroke.

Tearing the engine down for inspection is the only way to have a clue what you are talking about on this oil ratio subject. Doing inspections before and after various ratios and oils are used under different conditions completes the education.

All oils are different (and annoyingly, sometimes companies change their formulations significantly without changing the label on the bottle significantly)

Anyhoo, :popcorn2:
+1 on that :cool: a lot of the oil goes straight through the engine and is combusted, that fraction of oil that clings to the moving parts is THE key,
and the size of that fraction of oil depends on engine design/fuel ratio/rpm/etc
 
+1 on that :cool: a lot of the oil goes straight through the engine and is combusted, that fraction of oil that clings to the moving parts is THE key,
and the size of that fraction of oil depends on engine design/fuel ratio/rpm/etc
And that’s what people really need to understand, some engines oil better than others and
may be ok on 50:1 while it would kill another engine.
 

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