Will try to get some pics posted later, but had a running Stihl 032 saw come in without a clutch assembly yesterday,
otherwise looked like a low hour saw with bright factory paint. No history on the saw, and no bar or chain.
Previously stripped rear bar stud pulled out when pulling OFF the clutch cover. No problem, tap it out for a repair type 10mm S056 magnum II stud size...a little red Loctite & done with that issue.
Put a new pin type cover washer on the shaft, then a new needle bearing, BUT the bearing end sets out about 0.050" OUTSIDE of the step down on the PTO shaft...that will bind the bearing up tight against the oil pump gear & the inner bearing race.
Pull the plastic oil pump cover & the OP gear/washer off and the crankshaft appears to be too far down inside the inner race on the PTO side bearing. Blocked off the carb & exhaust, and a P/V test shows case/bearing to be air tight. Looks like the PTO side of the crankshaft was not pulled into the bearing all the way. Crankcase screw heads securing the case halves all look original, no slot heads messed up like it had ever been split. Doesn't look like it was ever dropped hard onto the clutch side from a tree either.
Did this come from the factory this way & what did they originally use for a clutch & bearing set up?
You could grind or mill off the plastic OP gear faces a little on both sides, then mill the sprocket end to get a
new sprocket to fit with proper clearance, but I plan to try to pull this crankshaft on through the bearing without having to remove the top cover/handle and P&C to look inside. If you lay a straight edge onto the bar studs, the alignment of the chain onto the sprocket driver would also be too far inboard & rubbing up against the cover washers face.
I cut up some 15mm ID spacer bushings and will use an old clutch spider to help cinch it in, with a brass hammer tapping on the flywheel side (if needed some added persuasion)... but do you think I need to inspect the crank throws inside the saw first?
Has anyone ever seen a "short shaft" set up like this?..no white man comments please :>)
otherwise looked like a low hour saw with bright factory paint. No history on the saw, and no bar or chain.
Previously stripped rear bar stud pulled out when pulling OFF the clutch cover. No problem, tap it out for a repair type 10mm S056 magnum II stud size...a little red Loctite & done with that issue.
Put a new pin type cover washer on the shaft, then a new needle bearing, BUT the bearing end sets out about 0.050" OUTSIDE of the step down on the PTO shaft...that will bind the bearing up tight against the oil pump gear & the inner bearing race.
Pull the plastic oil pump cover & the OP gear/washer off and the crankshaft appears to be too far down inside the inner race on the PTO side bearing. Blocked off the carb & exhaust, and a P/V test shows case/bearing to be air tight. Looks like the PTO side of the crankshaft was not pulled into the bearing all the way. Crankcase screw heads securing the case halves all look original, no slot heads messed up like it had ever been split. Doesn't look like it was ever dropped hard onto the clutch side from a tree either.
Did this come from the factory this way & what did they originally use for a clutch & bearing set up?
You could grind or mill off the plastic OP gear faces a little on both sides, then mill the sprocket end to get a
new sprocket to fit with proper clearance, but I plan to try to pull this crankshaft on through the bearing without having to remove the top cover/handle and P&C to look inside. If you lay a straight edge onto the bar studs, the alignment of the chain onto the sprocket driver would also be too far inboard & rubbing up against the cover washers face.
I cut up some 15mm ID spacer bushings and will use an old clutch spider to help cinch it in, with a brass hammer tapping on the flywheel side (if needed some added persuasion)... but do you think I need to inspect the crank throws inside the saw first?
Has anyone ever seen a "short shaft" set up like this?..no white man comments please :>)
