What is the difference in chain pitch?

[NYH1]

Although I'm not new to using chain saws, I don't know what the difference between the pitches are. I cut about five face cords of firewood a year. I always get the factory safety chains (and will continue to do so) for both my saws a Stihl 021 and 029. I believe my 021 has a 3/8 chain. I think my 029 has a .325 chain. It says 325 on some of the links. I guess the 029 comes with either a .325 or 3/8 chain. Why would you choose one over the other? What is the difference in pitches?

Also I'm going to get a Husqvarna 353. At the rate I'm going, I won't get it until next spring. That saw comes with a .325 chain. Is it a safety chain? As always thanks!

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Well, pitch is a measurement. 3/8 is 3/8 of an inch. .325 is .325 of an inch. Madsen's and Stihl each have good illustrations of each on their respective websites. It'd be easier for you to look at the pics than for me to describe it. .325 is the smaller of the two, and as such not found on stuff like a 440 or 660. Some mid range saws are available with either, the 029, 361 e.g. The 3/8 on your 021 may well be the low profile 3/8 or I believe 3/8 Picco if it's Stihl chain. As far as what comes on the 353, I'd say that'd be upt to the dealer or box store you buy it from. Stihl saws are supposed to come with the safety chain, but it usually gets ditched at the customer's request. Stay with the safety chain if you like, but if you've got the knowledge to avoid kickback, safety chain is no less safe than conventional chain. In fact, it's name alone can lull one into thinking it's safer, when it's often really not.

 

[NYH1]

fishhuntcutwood, thanks! Yes my 021 has a Stihl chain on it. I believe it is a 3/8 Picco as you mentioned. It has a bright green link in it. So does the chain on my 029. When I've bought new chains I always bought the same chain that came on the saws. Never had a problem with them cutting. If they're safer I'd rather stick with them.

Well I'm not a professional. Like I said I only cut about five face cords a year. I've never had a kickback. I don't use the end of the saw. That's how I was told to avoid kickbacks. It's worked so far. Having said that I'll take all the advise I can get. :biggrinbounce2:

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Having said that I'll take all the advise I can get. :biggrinbounce2:

Then my advice would be to ditch the green safety chain, and get some yellow stihl chain. RM is nice firewood chain.

Any safety gear, chain, chaps, boots, helmet, whatever are only as safe as the guy running the saw. Safety chain isn't keeping you from cutting your leg off, you are. It does have a "reduced" tendency to kickback, but it'll still hurt you if you let it. Knowing how to safely operate your saw with any chain will negate the need for safety chain in 95% of situations.

Jeff

 

[blis]

ppe is way more usefull than any of those anti-kickback chains, since ppe actually protects you when something goes wrong, unlike safety chain... besides, you can control the kickback rather easily if youre sawing properly and know when you might get one...

 

[NYH1]

Thanks a lot guys. A few more questions.

Other not using the tip of the bar for cutting, what other things will help avoid kickbacks?

What will I gain by using the yellow RM chains on my saws? Cutting speed, durability, easier sharpening? Like I said I've never used anything but the bright green chains. Thanks a lot. I really appreciate all the help!

 

[blis]

Thanks a lot guys. A few more questions.

Other not using the tip of the bar for cutting, what other things will help avoid kickbacks?

What will I gain by using the yellow RM chains on my saws? Cutting speed, durability, easier sharpening? Like I said I've never used anything but the bright green chains. Thanks a lot. I really appreciate all the help!

sawing at full revs helps avoiding those kickbacks a bit... btw, you can still use the tip for cutting but you need to be aware that it might kickback and be ready for it incase it does...

 

[SawTroll]

sawing at full revs helps avoiding those kickbacks a bit... btw, you can still use the tip for cutting but you need to be aware that it might kickback and be ready for it incase it does...

100% right!:rockn: :rockn:

 

[NYH1]

Thanks a lot guys! Will the yellow chains cut faster? :biggrinbounce2:

 

[SawTroll]

Usually, but maybe not if the "green" ones are Oregon LP,VP, BP etc or Stihl RSC3.

Those just have a small ramp on the driver, directly in front of the cutter, and it usually doesn't impeed much with cutting speed.

 

[NYH1]

SawTroll, the chain on my 021 is a Stihl PM1. Should I try a Stihl PM or RM chain? If I'm not going to gain anything it's not worth doing. If it will cut a little faster I'll give it a try.

Also my 029 has a RM2 on it. I believe it's a .325 pitch. It says 325 on the links. I'm going to get a shorter bar for it so I'm going to need a few new chains for it anyway's. What Stihl chain would you recommend for the 029 with an 18 inch bar? Would I be better off with the 3/8 chain or the 325 chain? Thanks again!!!

 

[Lakeside53]

You can also get PMC now... Semi-chisel, comfort... and PMC3...

 

[SawTroll]

SawTroll, the chain on my 021 is a Stihl PM1. Should I try a Stihl PM or RM chain? If I'm not going to gain anything it's not worth doing. If it will cut a little faster I'll give it a try.

Also my 029 has a RM2 on it. I believe it's a .325 pitch. It says 325 on the links. I'm going to get a shorter bar for it so I'm going to need a few new chains for it anyway's. What Stihl chain would you recommend for the 029 with an 18 inch bar? Would I be better off with the 3/8 chain or the 325 chain? Thanks again!!!

Try PM instead of PM1 on the 021, I don't think it has the power to benefit from RM or RS.


For the 029, I suggest that you stay with .325, but dump the RM2 in favour of other RM or RS chain, **C or **C3 or not .....:greenchainsaw:

 

[NYH1]

Lakeside53, are those Stihl chains?

SawTroll, as always thanks!

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

sawing at full revs helps avoiding those kickbacks a bit... btw, you can still use the tip for cutting but you need to be aware that it might kickback and be ready for it incase it does...

True, but let me elaborate if I may. Being ready for kickback can be a misnomer. Meaning, if you (not you individually blis, but I mean anyone) think you can react fact enough and be strong enough to defeat a full kickback, you're mistaken. The saw will win. I think blis meant to stand to the side of the bar, and not directly over it, keep your hand on the front handle to help activate the chainbrake, etc. Don't rely on your strength and reflexes for defeating kickback.

But yes, the tip of the bar is useful for bore cuts and nipping. But you'd like to use the bottom of the tip if at all possible.

 

[NYH1]

fishhuntcutwood, other then using the tip of the bar, what else will cause a kickback?

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

fishhuntcutwood, other then using the tip of the bar, what else will cause a kickback?

That'll do it. You can possibly have the saw thrust back towards you by backchaining, which is cutting with the top of the bar. There's nothing wrong with that technique, but in the same way that when you cut normally with the bottom of the bar, the saw wants to pull itself into the cut, cutting with the top of the bar, it can want to push itself out of the cut, towards you. It's managable.

Watch that tip, and you'll minimize your kickback situations.

 

[NYH1]

fishhuntcutwood, thanks a lot!