At Westec one year a lathe demo. .5 DOC .060 feed.
Perfect freemachining stuff of course.
But sounded like a 50 cal on the cabinet!!
Got everybody's attention!!
What lathe?
- Thread starter blsnelling
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At Westec one year a lathe demo. .5 DOC .060 feed.
Perfect freemachining stuff of course.
But sounded like a 50 cal on the cabinet!!
Got everybody's attention!!
procarbine2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Make anything lately Brad? Still waiting on my Logan to be rebuilt, Ineed to put the hustle on my friend so I can get it in the shop!
FATGUY
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well, someone may have been down to the shop to pick up a few tools.....
Nitroman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't now about anyone else but I've "picked up a few tools":
Boring bar holder (two different types), selection of boring bars (HSS), tool-holders, rockers, spare lantern-style tool post set, HSS tool-bits, MT3 to MT2 spindle reducer, NOS (!) Skinner 6" 4-jaw independent chuck, H-10 carriage stop, 3C handwheel collet closer set (gotta look into the lever-closer and collets)...
Also want to get a dividing head with tailstock but the one I want is $400.00, but man it'll cut those degrees! And for my Christmas present I am going to buy myself a Buck 6-jaw Adjust-Tru. Haven't decided on 5" or 6" yet.
Boring bar holder (two different types), selection of boring bars (HSS), tool-holders, rockers, spare lantern-style tool post set, HSS tool-bits, MT3 to MT2 spindle reducer, NOS (!) Skinner 6" 4-jaw independent chuck, H-10 carriage stop, 3C handwheel collet closer set (gotta look into the lever-closer and collets)...
Also want to get a dividing head with tailstock but the one I want is $400.00, but man it'll cut those degrees! And for my Christmas present I am going to buy myself a Buck 6-jaw Adjust-Tru. Haven't decided on 5" or 6" yet.
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
It's too bad you're so far north Nitroman, a super spacer is what you really want. They're expensive though! I got mine barely used, and it didn't come with a tailstock. Been about 6 years now, still haven't made one for it either. If I was cutting flutes in rifle barrels, it would be mandatory, but I haven't done that yet.
For most work an indexer will cover your bases.
Get a real quality one a lot cheaper. Add a soft plate and most odd work is possible.
Get a real quality one a lot cheaper. Add a soft plate and most odd work is possible.
Nitroman
Addicted to ArboristSite
The one I want looks extremely similar to this:
Hemingway Kits Versatile Dividing Head and Accessories
And is sold by RDG Tools out of the UK. I have an Atlas mill, this only has an 8" by 18" table. The RDG unit will do anything and even fits on my mill. I do not plan on using it for anything big, but making small gears is something I want to do. I have some ideas for things.
Hemingway Kits Versatile Dividing Head and Accessories
And is sold by RDG Tools out of the UK. I have an Atlas mill, this only has an 8" by 18" table. The RDG unit will do anything and even fits on my mill. I do not plan on using it for anything big, but making small gears is something I want to do. I have some ideas for things.
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
WoW! I'm surprised at the amount of machining knowledge this group has!
An indexer uses that takes 5C is handy.
A 24 plate covers 2,3,4,6,8,12, and 24 splits.
I've gotten Hardinge indexers for less than $100 on the bay.
Here are some pics of tonight's little project. I didn't take them while I actually did the work, so these were all staged afterwards to show what I did.
The job was to take the T-bracket that held the tool post onto the cross slide. It originally was 10mm and I needed it to be 9/16" for the new QCTP. So, a stop by Nik's shop was in order on the way home from work.
I used a drill with a MT2 taper, sized up with a MT2 to MT3 adapter. This fit into my tailstock. For the actually work I chucked up the T-bracket in my 4-jaw chuck, later removed.
I don't yet have a chuck to hold Nik's countersink bit, so I simply used a larger bit with a MT3 taper. Talk about a big drill bit!
I then snugged the 9/16-18 tap between the T-bracket and a dead center in the end of the tap. I'd make a 1/4 turn of the tap, then snug the center back up against it. It worked beautifully. I was done all too soon. Yes, it was a simple job, but it was pretty cool to be able to do something like this in my own basement.
The job was to take the T-bracket that held the tool post onto the cross slide. It originally was 10mm and I needed it to be 9/16" for the new QCTP. So, a stop by Nik's shop was in order on the way home from work.
I used a drill with a MT2 taper, sized up with a MT2 to MT3 adapter. This fit into my tailstock. For the actually work I chucked up the T-bracket in my 4-jaw chuck, later removed.
I don't yet have a chuck to hold Nik's countersink bit, so I simply used a larger bit with a MT3 taper. Talk about a big drill bit!
I then snugged the 9/16-18 tap between the T-bracket and a dead center in the end of the tap. I'd make a 1/4 turn of the tap, then snug the center back up against it. It worked beautifully. I was done all too soon. Yes, it was a simple job, but it was pretty cool to be able to do something like this in my own basement.
yeah baby!!!!
Your care package goes out tomorrow.
lmbrman
stumped
Good move buying a lathe Brad, and great bunch here on AS givin pointers 
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
Big drill bit...:hmm3grin2orange:
Ditto. Giggle. Giggle.
Dennis Cahoon
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey Brad, now you can do a cylinder like they're suppose to be done.......and charge less money!!!!......Hahahahahahaha!
indiansprings
Firewood Purveyor
May be a small thing, but to go along with the eye protection, realize the soles of your footwear will fill with hundreds of these sharp little chips, since your doing it in your home, you don't want to get on the wife's bad side and walk across hardwood or laminate floors, they are just like little razor blades and will tear the hell out of the finish, mine come off as soon as I walk in from the shop.
Finally, I'm using the lathe to do what I bought it for. The subject is a 395XP. It turned out fantastic. I cut a .035" popup on the piston, then removed .040" from the cylinder base, resulting in a squish of .020 without a gasket.
Cutting the mandrel took the longest. This was the first time I've tried cutting steel. It actually went quite well. Once done, the base of the cylinder dialed in at about .0005".
Cutting the mandrel took the longest. This was the first time I've tried cutting steel. It actually went quite well. Once done, the base of the cylinder dialed in at about .0005".
