What Saw do I need to cut this Huge Oak Tree?

[trook1]

I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

you could do it with a 28” bar just line up your cuts. Bring some wedges.

 

[Bill G]

Are you asking if you should buy a 661 just to buck one tree? If so as much as I love buying saws the answer would be no. Since you have a 462 just get a longer bar and take it easy to allow it to oil the chain. It will cut it. If you are looking for an excuse to get a bigger saw (who isn't) then buy a 661 and a 36" and have fun.

 

[cookies]

Work from the top to the base removing the weight from the root ball,that 462 shoulf pull a 32" bar for a few cuts just let it idle for a few minutes between cuts to let it cool and let the saw pull itself along while picking it up every so often to clear chips. You might get lucky near the base and have it stand back up as a 10 foot high stump saving you some cutting. Use 2-3 wedges to hold the cuts open as you go deeper into the trunk.

 

[Bill G]

Work from the top to the base removing the weight from the root ball,that 462 shoulf pull a 32" bar for a few cuts just let it idle for a few minutes between cuts to let it cool and let the saw pull itself along while picking it up every so often to clear chips. You might get lucky near the base and have it stand back up as a 10 foot high stump saving you some cutting. Use 2-3 wedges to hold the cuts open as you go deeper into the trunk.

Be dayam careful if she wants to stand back up. There has been more than one fellow killed or injured when that happens. That root ball in the right situation has a ton of stored energy and can be deadly.

 

[Bill G]

 

[Bill G]

 

[sean donato]

Looks like a few days of fun with the 394xp and the 42" bar I normally use for milling....
I'll echo Bill, check out that root ball pretty good, before cutting. Actually I'd haul in a mini and get all the dirt off the root ball first. Take a bunch of the upper branches off, see how it's sitting then go from there. Pictures never do it justice. Lots of good cord wood there though.

 

[northmanlogging]

661 with a 36 or 42, skip tooth and let er eat.
Though your 462 with a 32 will do the job, just little more finesse on the fat bits. z

Keep a sharp chain in either saw, dull chains in big wood will cook a saw in a hurry.

 

[trook1]

Are you asking if you should buy a 661 just to buck one tree? If so as much as I love buying saws the answer would be no. Since you have a 462 just get a longer bar and take it easy to allow it to oil the chain. It will cut it. If you are looking for an excuse to get a bigger saw (who isn't) then buy a 661 and a 36" and have fun.

Bill, I have thought about buying a 661 a few times for other situations I have had, but I have not pulled the trigger. As much as I would like to buy one for this tree alone, I'm not sure the wife would be happy about that!! Besides, I thought we are supposed to LOOK for excuses to buy another saw. CAD and all....

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!

Well, I once cut up a huge Eucalyptus…6’ across…with an 031 and 20” bar, lol…was what I had
would I want to repeat? Hell no
clear our as much of the crap shown around that thing first…have a weed wacker? Then, start at the top and work toward the main trunk.

 

[JPCalifornia]

Looks like the perfect opportunity to buy the big saw you’ve always wanted...

 

[Captain Bruce]

I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!

Your 462 will eat that big chunk of wood for breakfast. Work from both sides once you are making wheels. You will be working top down anyway....

 

[sean donato]

Never been a fan of the top down approach. You know its gonna stand up eventually, or at least stands a good chance. I like the thin it out, see how it's supported and get the root ball off. Hence my suggestion to get a mini. Heck even renting a 14k lb machine for a week isn't bad money. Clear that dirt off. Get the brush and little crap cleaned off. Go from there.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Never been a fan of the top down approach. You know its gonna stand up eventually, or at least stands a good chance. I like the thin it out, see how it's supported and get the root ball off. Hence my suggestion to get a mini. Heck even renting a 14k lb machine for a week isn't bad money. Clear that dirt off. Get the brush and little crap cleaned off. Go from there.

Well, I’ve usually modified the top down approach in that way. The tree will tell you when the balance point has been reached. Once the smaller branches are out of the way a round at a time from there until it starts to lift. Then, cut it off the stump like in some of those vids…very carefully

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Your 462 will eat that big chunk of wood for breakfast. Work from both sides once you are making wheels. You will be working top down anyway....

Id still get a 32 for that saw and go slowly, pulling out of a big cut every now and then, Erving it up to get more oil to the chain.
remember Mac showing how to down a tree that size…with a 16” Echo 400?

 

[northmanlogging]

ya all... its easier to cut the root wad off before messing with the rest of it, the trunk will be more then enough support to keep the wad from squishing you, and its more then likely to roll back into the hole anyway, if it don't, so you leave 4-5 of trunk to keep the wad in place and take the rest.
the alternative is to get down to the last nitty grit of the trunk, take that last critical round off, and the wad either stands up, possibly taking you with it, or, worst case if flops towards you with nothing there to hide under. But what do I know I just do this at least once a month often multiple times a day.

Each tree is different, so take it all with a grain of salt, if it was on a hill of some sort then I would leave more attached to the wad and just forget about it, whatever happens have a good escape path before you start gnawing on stuff close to the wad, and get all the damned branches off that could hook, you and then chuck you into the woods somewhere to be found by wild critters and some poor hunter 20 years from now.

 

[rwoods]

trook1, with all due respect your question suggests that you are inexperienced with a blowdown of this size. If you are experienced, you can skip from here down to the last paragraph. If not, continue.

Reading a root ball is tricky. If it falls forward it can crush you. If it stands up it has many ways to kill/hurt you. If it rolls, it can kill/hurt you. The top has its own hazards. Studying the root ball should be your first priority. Studying the top is next. Evaluating the probable effect and interaction of both should be done before you touch it with a saw. In summary, finding and maintaining a balance is critical from a safety perspective.

Generally speaking, to prevent getting crushed, before doing any cutting you can secure the root ball towards the hole with some rigging to something heavy enough to hold it and if using equipment, it should be located far enough away that it won't get hit if the root ball falls back towards the hole. To find the balance, I usually whittled the top down (as it is usually most stable with the root ball intact) to a point where the stem is still balancing the root ball but not beyond a point where the stem lifts or will roll when you sever the root ball. Then sever the secured root ball at a point as near to the root ball that you can safely stand should it fall forward or roll. This should leave you with a stem that can be moved or bucked in place. These are all judgment calls that are more important than 661 vs. 462.

As to the saws, I don't own a 661 or a 462 but either should be able to do the job. In my opinion. the longer the bar the better so long as the saw can handle it. A 661 should have no problem with a 36" bar. I don't know about a 462. Personally, I would go no shorter than a 32" given the risks of that huge root ball. If this is a one-time deal to justify a bigger saw, I would give a 500i a serious look.

Be extremely careful.

Ron

 

[northmanlogging]

after checking the pics again, FO SHO cut the root wad off first. it will flop down with very little drama, leave enough room to fit comfortable between the wad and saw, and clear a good path, you'll be fine.

 

[rwoods]

Let me quickly explain that what I mean by whittling the top down is taking out the branches, particularly the overhead ones. I am not suggesting that you shorten the stem before severing the root ball.

Ron