What Saw do I need to cut this Huge Oak Tree?

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I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!
what the heck buy 661 and an 881 too. 😁🤷‍♂️. yup watch the root ball. I have cut blow downs up for people, and have cut at the base and let it stand up. biggest tree i have bucked up, 5ft up from base my 5ft b/c on my 084 barely cut threw it. have fun and stay safe on whatever route you take. and post the pics of your progress.
 
what the heck buy 661 and an 881 too. 😁🤷‍♂️. yup watch the root ball. I have cut blow downs up for people, and have cut at the base and let it stand up. biggest tree i have bucked up, 5ft up from base my 5ft b/c on my 084 barely cut threw it. have fun and stay safe on whatever route you take. and post the pics of your progress.

This answer beat me to it.

I was just about to say, if you are buying a saw for this job go the whole hog and get an 088/880/881. And a big .404 bar and chain.

If you don't think you will use it much then a Farmertec Holzfforma G888 clone will probably do, and will save you some money. The clone will be easier to justify to the wife.

Everyone here will help you buy a new saw/spend your money!
 
trook1, with all due respect your question suggests that you are inexperienced with a blowdown of this size. If you are experienced, you can skip from here down to the last paragraph. If not, continue.

Reading a root ball is tricky. If it falls forward it can crush you. If it stands up it has many ways to kill/hurt you. If it rolls, it can kill/hurt you. The top has its own hazards. Studying the root ball should be your first priority. Studying the top is next. Evaluating the probable effect and interaction of both should be done before you touch it with a saw. In summary, finding and maintaining a balance is critical from a safety perspective.

Generally speaking, to prevent getting crushed, before doing any cutting you can secure the root ball towards the hole with some rigging to something heavy enough to hold it and if using equipment, it should be located far enough away that it won't get hit if the root ball falls back towards the hole. To find the balance, I usually whittled the top down (as it is usually most stable with the root ball intact) to a point where the stem is still balancing the root ball but not beyond a point where the stem lifts or will roll when you sever the root ball. Then sever the secured root ball at a point as near to the root ball that you can safely stand should it fall forward or roll. This should leave you with a stem that can be moved or bucked in place. These are all judgment calls that are more important than 661 vs. 462.

As to the saws, I don't own a 661 or a 462 but either should be able to do the job. In my opinion. the longer the bar the better so long as the saw can handle it. A 661 should have no problem with a 36" bar. I don't know about a 462. Personally, I would go no shorter than a 32" given the risks of that huge root ball. If this is a one-time deal to justify a bigger saw, I would give a 500i a serious look.

Be extremely careful.

Ron
Thank you very much, Ron. Great summary. I have been cutting blowdowns fairly often, and that makes up the overwhelming bulk of my experience. However, this is the largest blowdown I have experienced, by far, in my 51 years, and yes it makes me a little nervous. Thanks again for all your input.
 
what the heck buy 661 and an 881 too. 😁🤷‍♂️. yup watch the root ball. I have cut blow downs up for people, and have cut at the base and let it stand up. biggest tree i have bucked up, 5ft up from base my 5ft b/c on my 084 barely cut threw it. have fun and stay safe on whatever route you take. and post the pics of your progress.
LOL. That's a great plan. A 661 AND 881 just in case!! :rock:
 
Your present saw is too small.
Get an estimate on the removal.
Show it to the wife.
Justification for new saw.
Joseph, I am already ahead of you!! I have a friend with a tree removal company who will get me an estimate. I imagine the estimate will easily justify a new saw. :cool: I may even have him make a cut or two for me to minimize the the danger. The best of both worlds........
 
Being nervous is a good thing, when you are no longer nervous you become a lot more likely to make dangerous decisions or go too fast. I knew my suggestion to let the stump pop up would spur reactions to its dangers but when is anything involving a running chainsaw not dangerous. If you have access to equipment a pile of dirt pushed up behind the root ball will stop or limit the spring action of the stump when separated or simply allow the tree to remain down for several months to allow the roots and soil time to deform reducing their stored energy. Even power washing the root ball then cutting the roots off will reduce the stored force to return upright.
If you can set a few logs under that trunk to keep it off the ground when separated from the root ball and supporting branches it will help keep your saw out of the dirt.
 
You know guys, it’s time to turn the tables on the wives... buy the damn saw you want/need, and tell your wife she’s cut off if she starts in on ya!.. It’s not like you’ve gone behind her back a bought a two hundred thousand dollar Maserati
That is when you get a knock at the door December 23rd 2017 and it is a process server handing you a notice no man that loves his wife wants to get. Trust me your life is near the drain at that point. been there living that 24-7-365 and wishing the ride would end.
 
If my wife, who I do love, wanted to divorce me over buying a chainsaw, I’d realize right there are problems are way bigger than a couple a grand I might spend on an MS880 or something similar... a divorce over 2k...? If that’s the case, you should be the one to file for divorce, and file tomorrow morning!
 
If my wife, who I do love, wanted to divorce me over buying a chainsaw, I’d realize right there are problems are way bigger than a couple a grand I might spend on an MS880 or something similar... a divorce over 2k...? If that’s the case, you should be the one to file for divorce, and file tomorrow morning!
True but when your collection tops 1000 saws they get a bit upset They still are upset when you agree to cut in half.
 
True been when your collection tops 1000 saws they get a bit upset They still are when you agree to cut in half.
Behaviorally people can make changes Bill but personality is probably the best indication of what future actions will happen.
Honestly the man who collects 1000s saws is the problem, not the saws.
 
I own an 088 that I would happily spend the day cutting that tree up with, there might be a member on here who lives close to you with an old 6-8 cube saw who wouldn't mind coming out for a day and exercising some big saws.
It would be fun to put some old homelite and McCulloch saws in there too.
 
I own an 088 that I would happily spend the day cutting that tree up with, there might be a member on here who lives close to you with an old 6-8 cube saw who wouldn't mind coming out for a day and exercising some big saws.
It would be fun to put some old homelite and McCulloch saws in there too.
Shame he isn't closer, I'm on the tail end of my 10 day work week, weekend coming up. Would be a blast to get a group of guys together from here to tackle a tree like that.
 
I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!
I would suggest just getting a longer bar and a full skip tooth chain, and baby the saw through the cut.
 
Never been a fan of the top down approach. You know its gonna stand up eventually, or at least stands a good chance. I like the thin it out, see how it's supported and get the root ball off. Hence my suggestion to get a mini. Heck even renting a 14k lb machine for a week isn't bad money. Clear that dirt off. Get the brush and little crap cleaned off. Go from there.
The root ball can still move violently. Just have to be very careful.
 
The root ball can still move violently. Just have to be very careful.
I'm well aware of that, still wouldn't change how I would tackle it. Which I mentioned pretty early on. Clean up the root ball so it can be properly assessed, clean up the top branches so the rest of the tree can be assessed, then plan on how to get rid of the root ball. I'm no fan of 10+ feet of tree standing back from a root ball flopping back down. Much less chance of injury to clean up so you can see what your up against, then deal with the most problematic part of the tree, the root ball. I've done this method quite often, although this would be an abnormally large tree, the method works.
The pictures can be deceiving, however the trunk looks to be on the ground, this simplifies things some what. The top needs addressed to mitigate/eliminate any chance of it rolling, then the root ball it's self. I prefer them to flop back in the hole they came out of, but in this case with the dirt still attached, getting a machine in to clear the dirt from the root ball, then deciding of your going to prop the root ball or let it flop will be pretty easy. I don't have a good way of estimating the weight of the root ball, but if I could get a 14-18k lb machine in there, loose most the dirt, I'd be inclined to use the machine to keep the root ball in position sever the trunk and then flop the root ball back in position with the machine.
 
There was a time not to long ago, I would have said just give me my saw and I will be fine. Then the list grew to include plastic wedges and something heavy of iron to whack them. Then a rope and a 4wd truck … . Now I ask myself is my tractor big enough. I must be getting old.

I don’t know what heavy equipment trook1 has available, but if he has it, then use it.

Ron
 
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