What the different between $400 Meteor cylinder and a $160 Meteor cylinder

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James Sawyer

James Sawyer

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According to Meteor Piston, they don't make a R/RZ kit (as far as I can tell).

Regarding OEM being far better, according to everything I've read on both sites:
  1. aftermarket has casting leftovers that need to be cleaned out (no big deal)
  2. the ports might need beveling (that has to be done correctly)
  3. the port timing can be messed up (bad)
From other's reports on aftermarket and the price of OEM I decided to buy new saws from the dealer or used saws from other reputable members, that's more mess than I wanted to deal with and for me it seemed the smarter option as I like strong saws with no problems. Of course what's right for your situation is likely different.
 
Mad Professor said:
How many coals the seller rakes you over.

OEM is best. Can you salvage the original one? Post some pictures......
Click to expand...

Mad Professor said:
How many coals the seller rakes you over.

OEM is best. Can you salvage the original one? Post some pictures......
Click to expand...
I want to get my original timing numbers on the OEM cylinder before I pull it, I built a holder for a dial indicator so make sure my wheel is zero. I'm question my wheel setup because my numbers are a lot different than I thought they should be. My Exhaust is 100 degrees ATDC, transfer 119-120 degrees ATDC and intake is 110-110 ABDC. The squish is .043. Not much blow down on this OEM cylinder. I don't think there's any saving this cylinder the piston rocked pretty bad from what I can tell. I'll try and verify my numbers then pull the cylinder when I get home tonight.
 
James Sawyer said:
I want to get my original timing numbers on the OEM cylinder before I pull it, I built a holder for a dial indicator so make sure my wheel is zero. I'm question my wheel setup because my numbers are a lot different than I thought they should be. My Exhaust is 100 degrees ATDC, transfer 119-120 degrees ATDC and intake is 110-110 ABDC. The squish is .043. Not much blow down on this OEM cylinder. I don't think there's any saving this cylinder the piston rocked pretty bad from what I can tell. I'll try and verify my numbers then pull the cylinder when I get home tonight.
Click to expand...
.043 squish on OEM? That quite excessive, in my opinion.
 
Ok verified my number, I’m off +1 degree to the positive from my original number. Not a lot of blowdown or compression stroke from what I thought it should have. The crank looks and feels ok, not center in cases thou. I don’t feel ridge in the cylinder wall on the intake side but sure doesn’t look good . I thought the plating worn thru but I can’t feel it. Both side of cylinder walls have piston wear strips. I’m thinking the coating is compromise. Any opinion?
 

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WI_Hedgehog said:
According to Meteor Piston, they don't make a R/RZ kit (as far as I can tell).

Regarding OEM being far better, according to everything I've read on both sites:
  1. aftermarket has casting leftovers that need to be cleaned out (no big deal)
  2. the ports might need beveling (that has to be done correctly)
  3. the port timing can be messed up (bad)
From other's reports on aftermarket and the price of OEM I decided to buy new saws from the dealer or used saws from other reputable members, that's more mess than I wanted to deal with and for me it seemed the smarter option as I like strong saws with no problems. Of course what's right for your situation is likely different.
Click to expand...
I think a MS462 is ~$1250 now. I’d like to go OEM cylinder. I’d hate to port OEM cylinder and be wrong on what I think my numbers should be. Aftermarket little easier to swallow if I need to do another cylinder. but I thinks meteor or hyway cylinder kit would work. I like 102 to 105 degrees on my exhaust and 22 to 25 degrees on my blow down. .025” on compression. I have access to lath …I used it today but i don’t have a mandrel for this cylinder.
 
The $400 price tag is likely because it’s out of stock. It’s easier to raise the price where no one will buy it than it is to shut it down and re-create a new ad when new stock comes in.

As far as your cylinder, it looks like your air filter was missing for a time. Those vertical streaks are from debris ingestion. But there’s likely nothing wrong with the cylinder other than needing a little cleanup.

Meteor 461 and 661 cylinders run about 75% of the power of OEM just so you’re aware. 461 with a meteor cylinder runs like a 036 or 361
 
huskihl said:
As far as your cylinder, it looks like your air filter was missing for a time. Those vertical streaks are from debris ingestion. But there’s likely nothing wrong with the cylinder other than needing a little cleanup.
Click to expand...


Is that pretty consistently/always true for the vertical streaks? My first 562 began losing compression and had vertical streaks in the cylinder. It was a 2014 (and a demo model with 40+hrs on it) on the first or second-style air-filter setup. Seemed like I was always cleaning fines out of the carb-throat.
 
James Sawyer said:
Ok verified my number, I’m off +1 degree to the positive from my original number. Not a lot of blowdown or compression stroke from what I thought it should have. The crank looks and feels ok, not center in cases thou. I don’t feel ridge in the cylinder wall on the intake side but sure doesn’t look good . I thought the plating worn thru but I can’t feel it. Both side of cylinder walls have piston wear strips. I’m thinking the coating is compromise. Any opinion?
Click to expand...
Id clean it all up, re-ring and run it.
 
HumBurner said:
Is that pretty consistently/always true for the vertical streaks? My first 562 began losing compression and had vertical streaks in the cylinder. It was a 2014 (and a demo model with 40+hrs on it) on the first or second-style air-filter setup. Seemed like I was always cleaning fines out of the carb-throat.
Click to expand...
Get the updated filter kit. Way better then the original filter.
 
huskihl said:
The $400 price tag is likely because it’s out of stock. It’s easier to raise the price where no one will buy it than it is to shut it down and re-create a new ad when new stock comes in.

As far as your cylinder, it looks like your air filter was missing for a time. Those vertical streaks are from debris ingestion. But there’s likely nothing wrong with the cylinder other than needing a little cleanup.

Meteor 461 and 661 cylinders run about 75% of the power of OEM just so you’re aware. 461 with a meteor cylinder runs like a 036 or 361
Click to expand...
So you think my oem cylinder wi
singinwoodwackr said:
Id clean it all up, re-ring and run it.
Click to expand...
You think it worth buying a hone and trying to save this cylinder?
 
James Sawyer said:
So you think my oem cylinder wi

You think it worth buying a hone and trying to save this cylinder?
Click to expand...

That cylinder will likely clean up. Don't use a hone.

Start out with some wet/dry and/or coarse scotch brite and dish detergent to finger hone it, to get at what the damage may be, and you'll be able to tell aluminum transfer vs plating damage.

If the plating looks OK I like to use acid to remove the transfer. Have to be careful with that but properly applied only removes the transfer and does no damage to the plating. Others prefer using abrasives.
 
HumBurner said:
Is that pretty consistently/always true for the vertical streaks? My first 562 began losing compression and had vertical streaks in the cylinder. It was a 2014 (and a demo model with 40+hrs on it) on the first or second-style air-filter setup. Seemed like I was always cleaning fines out of the carb-throat.
Click to expand...
I was only looking at the vertical streaks on the intake side of the piston. If they are on the exhaust side also, that would point more to straight gas at one time or another. But yeah, if they’re only only intake side, that is from ingestion
 

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