What the different between $400 Meteor cylinder and a $160 Meteor cylinder

[huskihl]

So you think my oem cylinder wi

You think it worth buying a hone and trying to save this cylinder?

Cylinder looks to be fine, just needs cleaned up a little bit. If you have the ability to cut a slot in a nail or dowel, you can wrap up a couple inches of emory paper on it and stick it in your drill. I sand everything off with 80 grit and spray lube without any ill effects

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Dont use a ball hone for removal. Thats where folks mess up cylinders.

I just use a 80 grit flapper for transfer removal then emery by hand to feel and make sure. Thats step 1 and 2. Only thing needed.

I do a extra step for my builds with fresh crosshatch using ball hone. Going both ways for quick hatching. Step 3.
It's not needed but swear by it after the first race saw 166 I done this way with fresh rings.

 

[Lightning Performance]

The $400 price tag is likely because it’s out of stock. It’s easier to raise the price where no one will buy it than it is to shut it down and re-create a new ad when new stock comes in.

As far as your cylinder, it looks like your air filter was missing for a time. Those vertical streaks are from debris ingestion. But there’s likely nothing wrong with the cylinder other than needing a little cleanup.

Meteor 461 and 661 cylinders run about 75% of the power of OEM just so you’re aware. 461 with a meteor cylinder runs like a 036 or 361

Is it really that bad?

I have two OE 461 jugs on my bench. The intake is about the worst I've seen from the factory.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Um... I'm using 320 grit wet to remove the last of the transfer. 80 seems insane to me.

No decent 600 grit three stone hones are available for these tiny cylinders. Looked too many times and gave up. Hand sanding is still the best way imo. Flap wheels in 150 grit work okay to remove the thick transfer. Then it gets wet sanded with 320 after the ports are hand finished with 150 wet. My rings seat really fast and I have no skirt wear when checked over later. They look dull but show almost no scratches.

 

[Lightning Performance]

These are in various states of work.

Notice the dull one that had transfer?
Acually two.
Now you know what to look for in finished cylinders with plating.

 

[James Sawyer]

I took my cylinder into a trusted saw shop and the owner agreed probable could clean up the cylinder, he's seen worst. I took some oil and 320 cloth and lightly touched it up just to see... looks better. This is OEM cylinder aren't they chrome? Thoughts is it worth buying a ball hone to save this cylinder. Or just finish cleaning it up with some cloth. Sorry pic reversed labeled.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I took my cylinder into a trusted saw shop and the owner agreed probable could clean up the cylinder, he's seen worst. I took some oil and 320 cloth and lightly touched it up just to see... looks better. This is OEM cylinder aren't they chrome? Thoughts is it worth buying a ball hone to save this cylinder. Or just finish cleaning it up with some cloth. Sorry pic reversed labeled.

That looks fine. Your trying to hold oil.

The chrome is much harder than most Nikasil plating from Stihl. Husky has way better plating hardness. Appears a bit yellow.
Chrome can be sanded but usually it already popped up. Those peel and grenade soon after.

 

[huskihl]

I took my cylinder into a trusted saw shop and the owner agreed probable could clean up the cylinder, he's seen worst. I took some oil and 320 cloth and lightly touched it up just to see... looks better. This is OEM cylinder aren't they chrome? Thoughts is it worth buying a ball hone to save this cylinder. Or just finish cleaning it up with some cloth. Sorry pic reversed labeled.

It’s really not that bad. Keep the oil on some 320 by hand for a few minutes it’ll likely be gone. And yes, chrome plated

 

[lone wolf]

It’s really not that bad. Keep the oil on some 320 by hand for a few minutes it’ll likely be gone. And yes, chrome plated

And don't rub too hard near the exhaust port!

 

[huskihl]

And don't rub too hard near the exhaust port!

I didn’t see anything there. I figured he was just concentrating on the intake side

 

[lone wolf]

I didn’t see anything there. I figured he was just concentrating on the intake side

Just in case he gets carried away.

 

[huskihl]

Just in case he gets carried away.

I was a concrete mason for about 30 years. We were grading and getting ready to pour a floor one day and I told a kid to go over and knock that high spot off with his concrete rake. I looked about 15 minutes later and he had a hole started about a foot deep.

Some get it, some don’t

 

[Lightning Performance]

Just in case he gets carried away.

That true... a lot of people do. This is where they get in trouble or leave sharp edges on plating near ports. A million ways to find one hurt like that. When porting the cylinders some people will leave thin plating on the port edge and wonder why it blew up. Sometimes it's better to remove all the plating not in the bore. Case by case basis there. I myself like to leave it on the exhaust roof if possible. The rest is meh, doesn't matter much. No other real "hotspots" to worry about.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I was a concrete mason for about 30 years. We were grading and getting ready to pour a floor one day and I told a kid to go over and knock that high spot off with his concrete rake. I looked about 15 minutes later and he had a hole started about a foot deep.

Some get it, some don’t

Priceless!

 

[VirginiaIron]

I'm rebuilding another one of my dads old saw...MS461 and I'm looking at cylinders. Noticed two Meteor cylinders on flea-bay with a large price differences.
$159 pn# 1128 020 1250
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174223282003?itmmeta=01HTD0782KYKT136JGYTM28E00&hash=item2890844f53:gLUAAOSwq~tZRUgZ&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAAwBKYDsrSgrlhPXhVnPW3s8T6EjbNsH5GuJaHqs2guGJ/oXYO2Rg8CS+2KGJOMVzsgnB8GG2vbzCgFyHqbqh/182DQtCk94LY+PRxvuULO99J1kBFOSYLY17AD6rOTnxMRkFsLHjXpyjh/3osj+1zG0qD98G0KNmqpKLgQ9dfFqklwlP7RiBINy/Zn8Qbxx/wawEl/jRdGpdT4YKbEtyRE47ALh2R/MZRqU3qDc+Kij9y28120TBBw46kOd6dztU3RQ==|tkp:Bk9SR7KBnaDTYw

$400 pn# 1128 020 1250 R/RZ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175477438913?itmmeta=01HTD0782KP641JM7QS2TH9EFW&hash=item28db4539c1:g:6MkAAOSwHQBjZlUi&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4KKl2p2G8BQYDCc8Z7pznZejIKSFaYTdCLHFZ7+1MeCp6TAHlF9Em0pYq8xSQVZtAn0fyBTN9k9mb+pfAwSE/Wey6w8Sm/own4Y33Kda/FVSDT679ZdvzEIns2wI4VlLUoQLvzLN0LI2tbPZtyLgbP1Auouf/HCC2R+MSykJ8oM+vltJ7BNi3ERIbce/vC4awg9otku4nuyebcsRW62zlCACfgFBRSpe2IohZSdqcAx7BLWQ3vEPg8CO4v+A5iE4YhAyMozHN5ZMlCeXS6aCVXLzWD0D1f71F4MdN3qx7KqX|tkp:BFBMsoGdoNNj

What the difference with the R/RZ?

Not necessarily there, I've been of the opinion that some items appear salted to make the deal seem better. But, there could also be tolerance, honing, casting differences "if" it is sold by the same seller.

 

[muddy42]

If honing, do it by hand and in a circular motion (not up and down). If you hone too much or make the bore oblong, the rings wont seal well. I prefer to replace piston and cylinder from the same brand and order at the same time, to increase the chance of compatibility. I've had good experiences with genuine meteor cylinders and piston kits. Reuse the OEM circlips, these are better.