What to do with a Jonsered 2040 Turbo??????

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Echoboy86

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
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Location
Cockatoo, Victoria, Australia
PORT THE LIVING HELL OUT OF IT!!! THATS WHAT!!!

Here's a short video of the finished product.

I had a major problem with this saw about 6 months ago. I rebuilt the saw with Meteor piston and an aftermarket long block from an Israeli seller off of Ebay.

The Quality of these cylinders are top notch with nice port shapes and brilliant chrome plating and I would recommend them to anyone wanting to rebuild one of these saws.

Anyway, I bought new bearings, seals, intake boot and impulse pipe and oil pump and once it all arrived (which always seems to take forever when you really want to get a saw up and running:cry:,) I set about putting this Jonny back together.

I got the saw all buttoned up and (impatiently) fire it up..... to my great disappointment I couldn't get my idle speed below 4000rpm. MAJOR AIR LEAK!!! I hear you all shout, and that's exactly the conclusion I came to, as there was no difference to the rpm when I attempted to tune it down.

Sooooo, pull her down again and reseal and button back up again, with the addition of pressure vac test this time, and what do you know...... still leaking around the top of the bearing pockets:mad::mad::mad:

Well crap!!! just what I need :(

The leak was directly at the top of the bearing pockets where the lower transfers meet the top of the bearing pockets. The problem is that there is no shoulder to pinch down onto the crank seal at the base of the lower transfer. so, how do we over come this???? Enter Permatex metal putty!!! I used this wonderful product to create a small ramped bridge to not only bear down on the crank seal but, I all so helps create a gentle curved transition for the fuel air charge to entre the lowers.

Well it worked a treat!:clap: I also ported the cylinder while I had it apart and welded up the Meteor piston and turned a .074 thou popup. I also added the WT-657-1 carb which has a bigger jet and venturi compared to the standard WT-289-1 that came with the saw.

Then product is the saw in the above video:chainsaw:. I hope you enjoyed this little story. IMG_0470.JPG
IIMG_0470.JPG 'll post some of the build photos tomorrow.

Sandy
 
Well, a it is relatively cheap Poulan product, but not a really bad one I understand. The corresponding Husky was the 41, but I don't really know how close they were related.

Decent power for what it is.
A couple people have them around here. Never had a problem with them as far as I know.
 
Nice! Put some 0.043" Oregon 90S narrow kerf chain on it and it will be even faster. That's what I run on my Husky 142.

This is essentially the same saw but 46cc:



Well, a it is relatively cheap Poulan product, but not a really bad one I understand. The corresponding Husky was the 41, but I don't really know how close they were related.

Decent power for what it is.
The engine is the same but the chassis is different.
 
Use your pronunciations Andrew......

What do you know? Anyone can port a chainsaw. :laugh:

And that is true my friend. Anyone can port any engine. I ported an 026 once with a cordless drill and a broken chainsaw file. :)
 
Nice! Put some 0.043" Oregon 90S narrow kerf chain on it and it will be even faster. That's what I run on my Husky 142.

This is essentially the same saw but 46cc:




The engine is the same but the chassis is different.

Ahhh! makes me want to go dig out that nice pulling 2900/superclean and throw some money
( that I don't have) at it.

This knee repair "ported&polished" is at that stage where i'm just getting around decent and becoming aggravated with everything.
So of course, I'm looking for a psychological escape and almost anything is interesting right now.
 
Anyone else remember those "GlobeMaster Tools" tables?
That pack of those multi-colored grinding stones that the shapes resembled a pack of cheap suckers that had been left in the car?

Grab that first variable speed, 3/8 drill, still on a power cord though! and a few files and some sandpaper.....
Those old 1970's era, reed induction Yamaha singles, were pretty forgiving of our learning curves.

It was pretty cool when you first wrapped your head around how the reeds
let those holes in the intake side of the skirt, allow the charge to flow back into the intake
and worked as another transfer port!
 
Thanks for the replies fellas. Randy, I'll put the timing back to stock with a new key and then advance it slowly till I find the sweet spot. Would you recommend doing it say 5 degrees at a time and then test or what??? From memory it was just under half the key but, I'd have to double check.
Thank s for pointing this out as the saw seems to my untrained ear to tune out fine out of the wood and then has that small little miss every now and again in the cut, which I assumed was just slight four stoke from a richer than optimum tune.
 
I start with .020 from the key.......which is about 1/4" at the outside edge of the flywheel.
 
Also, Chris I'd love to try the narrow kerf but all my local dealers don't stock it and are a pain to deal with so I just run what I can get. I'm more worried about eadge retention more than anything due to the amount of dirty stringy bark gum I cut. The bark is up to 2" inches thick and really fiberous and it just destroys chains.
 

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